Just heard from the Stealership that my kit is at the border and should be here Friday or Monday. I'll be installing it next week. Anyone have any tips, things to watch out for, etc? Will post some pics along the way.
FRPP H/O S/C Install Tips?
- Thread starter klaw
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Hey,
I'll be laying it down shortly for a Whipple HO kit - If you haven't looked at the instructions online read those through - a few times
From what I've read it's way better viewing them in colour compared to B&W that the kit comes with.
Where did you order your kit from? Do you know if it's a Gen II blower?
I'll be laying it down shortly for a Whipple HO kit - If you haven't looked at the instructions online read those through - a few times
From what I've read it's way better viewing them in colour compared to B&W that the kit comes with.Where did you order your kit from? Do you know if it's a Gen II blower?
It's here!!!
I ordered it from FRPP through a local dealership. Its the 07 Manual kit (M6066M11P7 and is shipped directly from Whipple so should be the latest version. Will try to document the install with pics etc. What gauges are you considering? I'm thinking the Autometer Cobalt series (wideband AFR, fuel press, and boost) in a dash triple-pod. Also considering the SoS A-pillar pod. Can't seem to make up my mind.
I ordered it from FRPP through a local dealership. Its the 07 Manual kit (M6066M11P7 and is shipped directly from Whipple so should be the latest version. Will try to document the install with pics etc. What gauges are you considering? I'm thinking the Autometer Cobalt series (wideband AFR, fuel press, and boost) in a dash triple-pod. Also considering the SoS A-pillar pod. Can't seem to make up my mind.
Here you go
Whipple Supercharger Installation Manual
How much did you end up paying from your Local Ford Dealer?
I was looking at the Aeroforce Tech Gauge - and a Manual Boost Gauge - probably a Cobalt series. And of course a Stef's 5128 Oil separator. I'll probably go with the SOS A-Arm gauge pod as I'm not a fan of it on the dash.
Whipple Supercharger Installation Manual
How much did you end up paying from your Local Ford Dealer?
I was looking at the Aeroforce Tech Gauge - and a Manual Boost Gauge - probably a Cobalt series. And of course a Stef's 5128 Oil separator. I'll probably go with the SOS A-Arm gauge pod as I'm not a fan of it on the dash.
Not sure of the final price yet - I'm picking it up after work and will confirm. Why do you think the oil separator is necessary?
From reading on other forums it seems the '05+ outputs a lot of oil from the Drivers side valve cover this inturn goes into the intake system to get reburned and can change the air/fuel mixture etc.... Most people with FI systems recommend an oil separator. If you decide to get one just make sure you buy a hose which is rated for oil otherwise it will collapse.
Here's a topic 5 pages along about the oil separator, which I had bookmarked:
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105580
Ben
Thanks for the heads up! After reading the threads I'm off to pick up the Moroso unit. Is there a decent Mustang parts store in the GTA? We have some selection here in Calgary but pricey. What companies in the US have you had the best luck with?
Emay
Member
Along with that explanation, spark blow out is an issue for some of us that have pushed the boost up a bit. Last thing you want to be doing is diagnosing a misfire that comes down to a 30.00 inline seperator. It's good piece of mind to assure you that oil in the combustion chamber is not the problem if you do develop issues..
Yeah I've been reading all the information I can about the Whipple before I order mine..!
There's a few places in the GTA - www.steeda.ca and www.seanhylandmotorsport.com
I have not ordered from them yet - but they seem to have okay prices. Up until this point most of the mods I've done to my car were interior apperance mods:
MGW parts
Custom floor mats (GG Bailey)
Redline shift boot..
Custom shift knob by Koolknobs.com
FRPP borla exhaust
JLT II intake - which of course is useless now that I'll be buying a whipple
Ben
Ready to Start
All the parts and pieces seem to be here. Picked up the gauges (Autometer Cobalt W/B AFR, Boost, and FP) along with the Autometer A-pillar triple pod. I looked at their dash pod and hated the fit and finish so decided to go with the A-pillar for now (not much better). Will order an SoS A-pillar pod on Monday and swap over when it gets here. Also ordered the Moroso air/oil separator.
Will probably do the install next weekend.
All the parts and pieces seem to be here. Picked up the gauges (Autometer Cobalt W/B AFR, Boost, and FP) along with the Autometer A-pillar triple pod. I looked at their dash pod and hated the fit and finish so decided to go with the A-pillar for now (not much better). Will order an SoS A-pillar pod on Monday and swap over when it gets here. Also ordered the Moroso air/oil separator.
Will probably do the install next weekend.
Attachments
First things first. You NEED to move the IAT sensor to AFTER the blower! I mean, you can get away without doing it, but tuning wise, it is much safer. Basically it gives you the most accurate readings for temperature as it is after the blower and compression so it is at the hottest it will be before going into the combustion chamber. I moved mine into the intake runner on the passenger side. You need to get a piggy back wire for it to relocate it but it's pretty easy overall.
also, I'm sure you know, but you need to T into the fuel line/rail for the FP gauge. There is no shrader valve on the S197's.
also, I'm sure you know, but you need to T into the fuel line/rail for the FP gauge. There is no shrader valve on the S197's.
Thanks for the heads up. Any suggestions for the fuel filter? Should I leave it stock or upgrade?
whyask
New Member
The HO kit runs about 11 psi and comes standard with the dual fuel pump kit. Should I be looking at an upgrade of the fuel filter?
anthony05gt
Active Member
Hoboattacker - Question
I picked up a Lightning IAT sensor and harness (2-wire) from our local tuner who won't touch the car unless I move the IAT to after the I/C. He suggested installing it in the #6 runner (2nd from front on the driver's side. I'll need to drill and tap the new manifold and tie-back the sensor to the harness. Is this how you did yours?
Also, I picked up some 3/8ths braided line and fittings to convert my fuel line over to braided (complete with a T block for a 1/4" line to the fuel pressure sensor). I was able to get a crossover for the fitting at the fuel rail end but upon further inspection I see that there is also a fitting at the hardline where it turns up at the frame rail into the engine bay. The local shop didn't have a crossover fitting for that end and didn't know if one existed. I have a ferrul compression fitting for the 3/8ths hardline but would prefer not to cut it. Any suggestions?
I picked up a Lightning IAT sensor and harness (2-wire) from our local tuner who won't touch the car unless I move the IAT to after the I/C. He suggested installing it in the #6 runner (2nd from front on the driver's side. I'll need to drill and tap the new manifold and tie-back the sensor to the harness. Is this how you did yours?
Also, I picked up some 3/8ths braided line and fittings to convert my fuel line over to braided (complete with a T block for a 1/4" line to the fuel pressure sensor). I was able to get a crossover for the fitting at the fuel rail end but upon further inspection I see that there is also a fitting at the hardline where it turns up at the frame rail into the engine bay. The local shop didn't have a crossover fitting for that end and didn't know if one existed. I have a ferrul compression fitting for the 3/8ths hardline but would prefer not to cut it. Any suggestions?
I don't know about the fuel rail adapter since I didn't do that part. As for the IAT, that's how I did mine. Mine is on the runner closest to the cabin passenger side, though. I don't really think it matters, to be truthful though. My car was only registering 109˚ max on each pull. That is without any extra cooling stuff. All the "stock" stuff from Whipple.
Here is a pic of my IAT sensor location:
Here is a pic of my IAT sensor location:
88GTtom
Member
since you have a 07 (like me) i will give you some tips that i got from installing mine:
i just installed mine, what to look out for..
-i did the fuel pump install one week proir to the supercharger install(glad i did, i was a tired man when all was said and done)
-i didn't take off my coolant resivor
-disregard step 17,20,21,57,58(they are for 05-06 models
-step 46 was a pain, i removed that bolt while working from the passenger side, with a small rachet and socket
-step 47 was a pain, those hoses are on their pretty good
-step 60, if you put the water neck fitting on like it is shown, you will have to grind down a timing cover bolt(allot), i did it like the instructions said, other people have just turned it 180 degrees and no grinding is needed and it works fine(wish i knew that before i installed mine) also, one of the bolts to secure the water neck to the crossover tube will have to be shortend
-when putting the new fuel crossover tube on, make sure the injectors are not installed onto the rails yet. the instructions have you put the injectors on first, but that line is so hard to get on, you will be twisting and pushing. you dont want to damage a injector while doing so. (you will know what i mean when you get to putting on that fuel hose)lol
-step 116, good luck, i made that the last part of the install. that hose is so hard to push into the supplied hose.
-step 141, says to use 2 bolts and 2 nuts. well the nuts were no problem to use because the car already had 2 bolts on it. the part where it says to use the 2 bolts... well my car did not have 2 holes for those bolts, it had 2 smaller bolts already on it, so you will need 2 more nuts(the bolts are smaller then the other two, you might have like 3 threads available for the 2 extra nuts you have to buy)
-adding length to all of the sensor wires was a long PITA. just take your time
-I did the install all by myself except for: i needed an extra person to apply pressure to the fuel pump while hammering in the lock ring, and i needed a extra person to apply pressure to the tensioner while getting the belt on.
-make sure you upload the ford tune before you start the car to check for coolant leaks, top off coolant...ect. the instructions might say to check for leaks before they tell you to upload the tune.
in the end, i was glad it was over. i had such a headache from getting no sleep. i installed a cobalt wideband and boost gauge. i bought the 8psi pulley and am seeing 9 psi. my afr at WOT is 11.2-11.3. I am going to get a custome tune soon and see what she puts out on the dyno.
good luck
i just installed mine, what to look out for..
-i did the fuel pump install one week proir to the supercharger install(glad i did, i was a tired man when all was said and done)
-i didn't take off my coolant resivor
-disregard step 17,20,21,57,58(they are for 05-06 models
-step 46 was a pain, i removed that bolt while working from the passenger side, with a small rachet and socket
-step 47 was a pain, those hoses are on their pretty good
-step 60, if you put the water neck fitting on like it is shown, you will have to grind down a timing cover bolt(allot), i did it like the instructions said, other people have just turned it 180 degrees and no grinding is needed and it works fine(wish i knew that before i installed mine) also, one of the bolts to secure the water neck to the crossover tube will have to be shortend
-when putting the new fuel crossover tube on, make sure the injectors are not installed onto the rails yet. the instructions have you put the injectors on first, but that line is so hard to get on, you will be twisting and pushing. you dont want to damage a injector while doing so. (you will know what i mean when you get to putting on that fuel hose)lol
-step 116, good luck, i made that the last part of the install. that hose is so hard to push into the supplied hose.
-step 141, says to use 2 bolts and 2 nuts. well the nuts were no problem to use because the car already had 2 bolts on it. the part where it says to use the 2 bolts... well my car did not have 2 holes for those bolts, it had 2 smaller bolts already on it, so you will need 2 more nuts(the bolts are smaller then the other two, you might have like 3 threads available for the 2 extra nuts you have to buy)
-adding length to all of the sensor wires was a long PITA. just take your time
-I did the install all by myself except for: i needed an extra person to apply pressure to the fuel pump while hammering in the lock ring, and i needed a extra person to apply pressure to the tensioner while getting the belt on.
-make sure you upload the ford tune before you start the car to check for coolant leaks, top off coolant...ect. the instructions might say to check for leaks before they tell you to upload the tune.
in the end, i was glad it was over. i had such a headache from getting no sleep. i installed a cobalt wideband and boost gauge. i bought the 8psi pulley and am seeing 9 psi. my afr at WOT is 11.2-11.3. I am going to get a custome tune soon and see what she puts out on the dyno.
good luck
Similar threads
Progress Thread
Shelby's Mustang - project revived after 7 years...
