One thing that has happened to me in the past has been air trapped under the temp sending unit, creating steam and giving false temperature readings. Since you are posting actual temp readings, i assume you have a good aftermarket temperature gauge and not relying on the stock electronic unit. Is your aftermarket gauge electronic or mechanical? Loosen your sending unit unit coolant starts to leak out and then retighten. See if that helps. I've also heard of people drilling a 1/8" hole at the top of the thermostat to prevent air from being trapped behind the thermostat.
OK Update. Been reading alot regarding mustangs and overheating, seems everyone has the same problem and the best solution only gives idle of 210. I opened up my search to imports and others ( did pentance to blue oval) and I read people having cooling problems when they removed their lower dust cover. the pictures I saw made it seem like the dust covers went from radiator to front of engine. I am wondering if anyone has fabbed something similiar? It was mentioned that the hot air gets rotated around and causes the radiator to suck hot air. ????
yes, what happens is air backs up in the engine compartment, and since the fan is pulling air though the rad, it cant go back through the rad, so it goes under. the fan then pulls it back through. you need to address two issues here then, first drop the rear of the engine abit to allow air to flow around it, and second install an air dam of some sort to prevent the air from coming back through the rad.
One thing that has happened to me in the past has been air trapped under the temp sending unit, creating steam and giving false temperature readings. Since you are posting actual temp readings, i assume you have a good aftermarket temperature gauge and not relying on the stock electronic unit. Is your aftermarket gauge electronic or mechanical? Loosen your sending unit unit coolant starts to leak out and then retighten. See if that helps. I've also heard of people drilling a 1/8" hole at the top of the thermostat to prevent air from being trapped behind the thermostat.
well my car was smacked up fron about 14 years ago. I think they butched it when they put it back together. I am running the 260 engine mounts to the engine sits lower then normal 289s. Last night I was finalizing the install of my flameriver box and was looking at the engin and trans mounts to see if I could move them back. I did notice the engin mounts are on front of the shock towers and should be reversable. Has anyone done this? I did notice my trans mount looks twisted. is this normal? I never noticed if it was before. As far as temp readings, go its a vdo gauage, about 4 years old. I did place a temp prob on the radiators top hose before tightening. guage is accutate.
Alright, I guess I am going to install a pusher electric upfront. That shoudl solve the problem. In my copper the pusher gave me a max temp of 210 with a kragen pusher. I have been reading spal makes the best fan. It seems then have one I can install and add 1200cfm not to bad. Where would on suggest purchasing it from?
www.streetortrack.com has some great pricing and excellent guys to work with. You will only be running one pusher fan, and not a pusher and a puller correct?
goning to use the setup I made. Which is a permacool HP mechanical and a 14 in pusher. I decided to cut up my stone guard to make a fan fit. I am really tired of turning the heat on when I got AC.
I installed the spal medium profile 14in pusher today. Seems to move a significant volume of air. Lets hope tomorrow on the test drive it dosen't heat up.
I will say damn that fan moves some air. I have to some how fab a blockers to keep the air from going around the radiator and go through instead. Helped a bit high temp was 205. Water going into the radiator with cap off and turkey therm. was 190 so I guess it is helping.