thank you for this, it’ll make my life so much easier! Hopefully I can figure out what keeps trashing these fuel regulators, if it was that In the first place
I read somewhere that you could either have your MAF sensor or your 02 sensors, and it’d try to correct it and adjust itself. I don’t know how accurate that is, but it definitely wouldn’t hurt for me to fix them. I’ve gotta jack her up today and see what all has been cut, I don’t even know if there’s still a connector under the car
I just finished the repair today, and everything seems to be better about how it’s running. Idle is smoother, no smoke, and no fuel dripping. Had a little scare as smoke was coming from the PB blaster I used to break the old o2 sensors free.The car will default to a fail safe condition, meaning it likely wont be running lean. You dont want to be in this mode at all, the computer can not fix this condition.
I drove it today for about 30 minutes, and my check engine light made its appearance. I’ll have to check the codes tomorrow, and I’ll post what it displays. Thanks everyone for the help!Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes or more to clear the codes then drive it around if possible, getting the engine up to operating temp and then check for codes, codes can be present without the cel on.
So I’ve read the codes, For the KOEO test I got:Mine comes on and I pull over, open the hood, ✔ it's still there and I'm good for a couple more trips.
The previous owner cut all AC lines (hard lines) and disconnected the smog pump, as well as the EVAP canister lines. The coolent temp sensor has been acting a little weird, might be time to replace it. I’ll check fluid levels as well in the rad and try to burp it. Thanks for taking a look and helping me out!Count the flashes. Longer pauses between flashes indicate a new number. Our engines have 3-digit codes, the older Fox bodies have 2-digit codes. Ignore the weird flicker in the beginning. I count:
1 1 6 3 1 4 3 1 1 3 3 2
From http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/3digit.html I get:
116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range
314 (R) AIR inoperative, Left or Front HO2S
311 (R) AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S
332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently
No o2 or fuel errors, lookes like you fixed the o2 wiring correctly.
If the car wasn't warmed up before KOER. you can ignore code 116. The other three deal with the emissions equipment - did you remove the AIR system in the passenger fender, and the plastic hoses? that would throw those codes.
So I drove the car for maybe an hour and a half in total yesterday, and the temp gauge moved, I think it got to about the “O” in normal, but I’m not sure if it’s reading accurately. The fan has a toggle switch hooked up to it, so I usually run it whenever I’m driving. That could be why it isn’t getting any warmer than that, but again, I don’t know if it’s accurate.Yup,. we have a coolant sensor and a coolant sender. The one the computer looks at (ECT) is just to the passenger side of the distributor, screwed in to the black metal coolant pipe. The one the instrument cluster looks at (CTS) is on the right of the distributor, screwed into the lower intake. The ECT has two wires going into it, and the CTS has 1.
Oh and just a little side note, my tachometer “works sometimes”, the odometer doesn’t work, and the oil pressure gauge doesn’t either. I was thinking about buying an intellitronix digital gauge cluster, which would include all new sending units for it. I just want to make sure the car is going to be reliable before I start spending that kind of money on it.So I drove the car for maybe an hour and a half in total yesterday, and the temp gauge moved, I think it got to about the “O” in normal, but I’m not sure if it’s reading accurately. The fan has a toggle switch hooked up to it, so I usually run it whenever I’m driving. That could be why it isn’t getting any warmer than that, but again, I don’t know if it’s accurate.
The gauge on the dash being fubar will never throw a code. The eec doesn’t even know it exists. The coolant temp sensor sends info directly to the eec and is located on the metal heater tube.So I drove the car for maybe an hour and a half in total yesterday, and the temp gauge moved, I think it got to about the “O” in normal, but I’m not sure if it’s reading accurately. The fan has a toggle switch hooked up to it, so I usually run it whenever I’m driving. That could be why it isn’t getting any warmer than that, but again, I don’t know if it’s accurate.
My temp gauge is working fine now. I probably just thought it was borked from just looking at it for a few minutes while idling, with the electric fan on, not letting it get hotter. It’s hooked up to a manual switch so I usually flip it on after a few minutes of driving.The gauge on the dash being fubar will never throw a code. The eec doesn’t even know it exists. The coolant temp sensor sends info directly to the eec and is located on the metal heater tube.
Why? The factory method of controlling it works very well. I never understood why anybody would bypass it for a manual switch.My temp gauge is working fine now. I probably just thought it was borked from just looking at it for a few minutes while idling, with the electric fan on, not letting it get hotter. It’s hooked up to a manual switch so I usually flip it on after a few minutes of driving.
I honestly don’t know why the previous owner did it, but I just haven’t seen a reason to try and fix the wiring for the factory systemWhy? The factory method of controlling it works very well. I never understood why anybody would bypass it for a manual switch.
It’s your car, so do what you want. The manual can switch is super janky though.
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