Fuel, Spark,and No START!!
- Thread starter Drews93fox
- Start date
Chrome_Rust
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my car is doing the EXACT same thing. I have to pump the gas to get it to start. And it is Fuelie. I am going to change the ECT and wrap my fuel lines in thermal sleeving to see if that helps. I am also missing O2's, dont know if that has anything to do with it.
Whats the point of wrapping your lines in thermal sleeving?
I dont think you have to go that far if you are having warm/hot start problems if you have a faulty ECT sensor
Hot fuel under 30-40 PSI pressure will not vapor lock. It will flash to a vapor once the pressure drops back to atmospheric. This is the same principle that makes your overheated radiator flash boil when you take the cap off.
Ok i have opened this back up because i have gotten the distrubetor back together and have wrapped my turbos. I drove my car foa a good 30 mins. I didn't have one problem. I went back to my house and shut it off and right away turned it back on and it started. I let it run for another 10 min then shut it off for a min, and it wouldnt start again. I then let it cool down to 160* and it still would not start. I went out this morning b4 work to try it and it fired right up like nothing was wrong.
I guess having it start right away after i got done with a drive takes away the whole timing could be out right? I read in the technical thread / thread modification list to bump the timing to 12 to 14*. Could this be a possible problem for me I have not done anything with the timing. It's still at stock 10* for all I know. Thanks for the input
I guess having it start right away after i got done with a drive takes away the whole timing could be out right? I read in the technical thread / thread modification list to bump the timing to 12 to 14*. Could this be a possible problem for me I have not done anything with the timing. It's still at stock 10* for all I know. Thanks for the input
You use a noid light or an LED test light.
Have you pulled a plug after it won't start to see if it's fouled?
Might be time to just run the checklist. Since you do have spark, it should go pretty quick.
Have you pulled a plug after it won't start to see if it's fouled?
Might be time to just run the checklist. Since you do have spark, it should go pretty quick.
ok last night i heated up the car and shut it off, it wouldn't start so i was going to use my new noid light. I kinda had a brain fart and how am i suppost to use noid lights whenthe car cant run? The directions said start the car and pull one injector connector and test. Now that im writing this im thinking how can the car run on 7 cilinders, now mucho confused 
Well when all this was going on i ohmed my injectors and the were all 16 ohms and cilinder 7 was 17. I dont know if this was inportant to be 1 ohm off or not.
After all this happened I decided to spray carb cleaner in the throttle body to try to get it to start and it started!!!! So i let it get hot again and shut it off, and then tried again and nothing. I floored the petal for prob 10 to 20 seconds and nothing. I can hear the fuel pump priming and nothing. so i tried the carb cleaner again and after 5 sec of cranking it started and ran fine. And then i did all this one more time. So to me it just seem like it needs something in the cilinders to pop the engine off then it will run for ever.
Thanks guys for staying with me on this
Haus- i work tonight at advance im going to see if we have a tester that i can buy and then try to pull codes
Well when all this was going on i ohmed my injectors and the were all 16 ohms and cilinder 7 was 17. I dont know if this was inportant to be 1 ohm off or not.
After all this happened I decided to spray carb cleaner in the throttle body to try to get it to start and it started!!!! So i let it get hot again and shut it off, and then tried again and nothing. I floored the petal for prob 10 to 20 seconds and nothing. I can hear the fuel pump priming and nothing. so i tried the carb cleaner again and after 5 sec of cranking it started and ran fine. And then i did all this one more time. So to me it just seem like it needs something in the cilinders to pop the engine off then it will run for ever.
Thanks guys for staying with me on this
Haus- i work tonight at advance im going to see if we have a tester that i can buy and then try to pull codes
I would get a fuel pressure gauge on there and see what pressure is when it runs vs won't run.
If it's ok, ensure TPS signal isn't shorting to VREF and use the noid light to see if injectors are receiving power and controlled-ground.
Your noid light method would do fine.
Good luck.
If it's ok, ensure TPS signal isn't shorting to VREF and use the noid light to see if injectors are receiving power and controlled-ground.
Your noid light method would do fine.
Good luck.
You don't need to buy a tester, so save your money. All you need is a paper clip.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
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