Full Restoration Break In Procedure

[JC6715]

I am getting close to getting the ol' Stang back on the road after a complete uni-body off restoration (instead of frame off). New everything: engine, clutch, trans, rear end.

From what I understand, the way you treat the new parts is very different for the engine compared to the clutch and rear end (not really babying vs. babying).

My question is how do you do break in so everything is broken in properly with out screwing any parts up (Seating rings properly without frying clutch and R&P gears)?

Thanks guys...

 

[CraigMBA]

I plan on doing the 50/1/1/5/50 break in procedure.

After you get the car absolutely finished, you drive -

-50 feet and then fix everything you find wrong, then
-1 block, and fix everything you find wrong, then
-1 mile, and fix everything you find wrong, then
-5 miles, and fix everything you find wrong, then
-50 miles and fix everything you find wrong PLUS nut and bolt the whole car.

After that I'm going to take a nap.

 

[JC6715]

I plan on doing the 50/1/1/5/50 break in procedure.

After you get the car absolutely finished, you drive -

-50 feet and then fix everything you find wrong, then
-1 block, and fix everything you find wrong, then
-1 mile, and fix everything you find wrong, then
-5 miles, and fix everything you find wrong, then
-50 miles and fix everything you find wrong PLUS nut and bolt the whole car.

After that I'm going to take a nap.

That sounds a little hi-tech for my current knowledge base. Perhaps you have some more literature you could possibly refer?

Maybe I am just worrying too much, I've used all quality parts and put them together the right way, no short cuts. Just git in and git r done?

 

[Rusty67]

The engine brake in is different then the clutch brake in and can be done basically at the same time without hurting each other. The trick to braking in a clutch is to shift it a lot but not be all that hard on it. Basically 300 miles of daily driving on the street should break in a clutch. Proper adjustment is the biggest factor to braking in a clutch properly.

As for the engine, you can brake the thing it just by idling it until it is warm and then taking it for a drive on the freeway. After that just make sure you warm it up and drive it hard for the first 500-1000 miles. Everyone has their own opinions on engine brake in however....

 

[JC6715]

Thanks Rusty. I understand how to break the stuff in, my question lies on how to do all of it at the same time. My biggest concern is between the engine and the rear end. I am supposed to drive the engine like a raped ape to seat rings, but absolutely baby the rear end so I don't overheat the rear's oil.

I was told to break in the rear I am supposed to drive slowly, no high rpm pulls for roughly half an hour around town then let the rear cool completely. Then I am to do this again. Then I am supposed to baby it for 500 miles, change oil, then drive it like I stole it... If I follow that I won't be able to properly seat the rings in the engine. If I follow the engine procedure I am worried i will toast the new rear gears...

I suppose I can look at how much the parts cost and choose accordingly... Properly broken in engine vs. maybe having to replace a roasted set of rear gears...

Damn, all I want to do is drive! ! ! ! ! !

 

[Rusty67]

You can do most of the engine break in with the trans in neutral.

 

[JC6715]

You can do most of the engine break in with the trans in neutral.

I've got a roller cam too, so that makes engine break in easier, forgot to mention that...