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Garage Ideas

  • Thread starter Thread starter MikeH686
  • Start date Start date Jun 16, 2016
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89oem

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Dec 18, 2013
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#21
  • Jun 18, 2016
  • #21
MikeH686 said:
Does the lift bars slide inside the rail? My buddy has a lift but it has the hydraulic cylinders that go up with the bars so he can only bring the car up 3.5 feet before the cylinders hit his ceiling.. If this lift stays contained in itself like I need I can fit the lift between the trusses I would think I'm not gonna totally finish the garage off . I might have just confused everybody though with this
Click to expand...

Makes sense let lift upper extend into rafters since its not need for car lift height,

what about a 4 post lift or one like @RacEoHolic330
 

MikeH686

Mine is only two inches though.
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#22
  • Jun 18, 2016
  • #22
I was trying to remember what he had
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
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#23
  • Jun 18, 2016
  • #23
48" lift. I'm limited because of that support beam at 9' high. Even though I can't stand under it, I still love it and it has already paid for itself in saved time and aggravation.

 
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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#24
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #24
MikeH686, Do you have to attach it to the house? Why not extend the drive into the back yard and put a detached garage back there. My 24x36 pole barn garage cost only $19500. Site prep, concrete, everything. The most frequent complaint that comes with garages is, "shoulda built it bigger" I can fit 4 cars on the floor in mine if I want but usually keep 3. The other space is work space. Thought about a lift but passed because I really dont need one that often. It would get in the way more than anything. Good jacks and jackstands is all I need. If I can get the car high enough so I can roll around and have shoulder clearance, I'm good to go.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#25
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #25
Whatever you decide, I recommend tons of light fixtures. Can never have too much. I recommend LED tubes. Low energy consumption and instant on, even in cold weather. Over do the lighting, you wont be sorry. Put switches in groups at bot the vehicle doors and man door. I can control the lighting from either location in three different groups. 3 switches at each location. USB charging receptacles come in handy too. Dont forget the mini fridge with beer
 

MikeH686

Mine is only two inches though.
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#26
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #26
I could put one back there but I like the convenience of walking out of my house right into my garage.
 

a91what

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#27
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #27
Yes I suggest 4ft led fixtures. Very low cost no ballast to deal with, crazy lumens. We just changed out a science center with them, took down 160 8ft t12 lamps and put up 80 4ft led.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#28
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #28
Mike, is 20' the width? If so that is cramped for two cars if you want room to move or have other stuff on the walls. And if you have a single 16' wide door you'll quickly find out how much that sucks too since the cars are crammed even closer. Trust me, go bigger if you can, even if you need to go detached. You can always put a drive through carport attached to the house, or even a smaller drive through garage later on.

My building is 24 wide and 36 deep. I would have went 30x40 but my lot wouldnt allow it. Here are some pics of what under $20k got me. Including all doors and openers, less electric which I did myself. These pics are intended to show you the room available with 24x36 in with cars and stuff inside.

 
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MikeH686

Mine is only two inches though.
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#29
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #29
Yeah I talked it over with my brother I think I'm gonna go detached. Did you buy a kit like versamax or Hansen pole building?
 

JD1964

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#30
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #30
I had a contractor build it. Under $20k. Site prep, construction, concrete, doors. Everything but electric.

Where've your locality, there should be pole barn builders to serve you. Google it. Get a few estimates. What state are you in?
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#31
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #31
Layout is important. I put my man door by the work bench area since they both require space. Stuff like that.

In the building const, I recommend laminated posts. The rot treatment is better and they are true and won't twist or warp.
 

MikeH686

Mine is only two inches though.
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#32
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #32
I live in Maryland I'll get the pad poured for free from my uncle. The Versa max buildings look really good I wanted the attached garage to mainly be a one car with the large garage door opening if I got detached I will make it large enough for two doors and fit two cars with ample room
 

JD1964

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#33
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #33
Take a look at Pioneer and Morton buildings as well.
 

GroverDill

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#34
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #34
The only thing that would make that shop better is a lift
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
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#35
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #35
Lift or not, I would heavily reinforce a rafter or two so you can hang a chain hoist. That is almost as handy as the lift and costs next to nothing
 

JD1964

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#36
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #36
When I have a car going down for extended work, I put it on wheel dollies, rotate it 90 degrees in the back part of the garage. That clears ample room on all sides of the project car while still keeping two full roomy spaces for other cars. I'll dig up a pic if I can. 24 wide X 36 deep rocks! But, bigger is better if you can.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#37
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #37
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll301/mailmanusa/P1020733.jpg
 
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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#38
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #38
Where in MD Mike? Im in Severna Park.
 

MikeH686

Mine is only two inches though.
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#39
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #39
Port tobacco ... 20 minutes from Mir
 
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JD1964

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#40
  • Jun 19, 2016
  • #40
I wanna go down there and watch the 275 drag radials. Last time I went to MIR was more than 20 yrs ago. Funny cars and rocket powered cars. It was a blast!!!
 
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