Garage Ideas
- Thread starter MikeH686
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I was thinking of doing 36x24 but my doors will on the 36' side so I guess I could make the two garage doors favor one side vs being equally apart that way I can take a car like your saying and push it to the area where there's no door and still fit 2 cars
If you're pulling in on the wide side (36'), why not put three 9' wide doors? That is 27' .. 2' 3" on each end and between doors = 36'
I could do either or I like your point though where you could put a car up the side and still fit two cars if I put two 9' doors in that middle pillar gets in the way of fitting the two vehicles
It's just the way my property it would be better oriented with the 36' going left to right across my back yard and the doors being on the 36' side either way that should be a decent sized building for my vehicles
Cool. Now, what would I change other than size? Hmmm....
Well, the metal roof is loud when it rains. Crazy loud!! When an acorn hits the roof it's LOUD!!! BANG!!! I'd have paid a bit more for wood roof sheathing and asphalt shingles to deaden that. I think the wood roof also would deflect summer heat a bit better than metal. But in spring and fall it's good as the sun radiates a bit of heat through the metal and warms the building.
Well, the metal roof is loud when it rains. Crazy loud!! When an acorn hits the roof it's LOUD!!! BANG!!! I'd have paid a bit more for wood roof sheathing and asphalt shingles to deaden that. I think the wood roof also would deflect summer heat a bit better than metal. But in spring and fall it's good as the sun radiates a bit of heat through the metal and warms the building.
48" lift. I'm limited because of that support beam at 9' high. Even though I can't stand under it, I still love it and it has already paid for itself in saved time and aggravation.
I just looked at your sig. Insane power!!! I can't even imagine what it would be like to drive that...
Dont need another meter. What year is your house built? If your elec service is currently adequate, you can run a feed from your house panel to the garage and put a sub panel in the garage. Look at your existing panel. The main breaker is probably 200amp (most common). If it is you're good to go. If not, what size is it?
If the house is 2014 you will have 200amp service to the house I'm sure. I'm also pretty sure there will be an available double pole breaker position in your existing house panel so you can run a feeder to the garage for a sub panel. Standard stuff for any competent electrician.
HotFox
15 Year Member
A few thoughts besides largest possible size. Outlets on ever wall less the 10' apart. Great lighting I have those HO florescent x6 8 footers (x24 4' bulbs) in a 24x30 attached and have them on 2 switchs so have 3 on at a time or all 6. A cheap ceiling fan that I leave on low all the time to circulate air, I blow it down in the summer, then reverse in the winter ( can't stand cold air blowing on me). I heat the garage for 50 degree in winter. So I spent money for wall insulation and blown in in the ceiling, also consider this when you pick out your doors. A tight grange can save hundreds in heating costs alone. Which is important in Michigan.
Heres my shop. Its a 30x40, with 13' interior ceiling. The doors are on the 40' side, with the layout like this: 9' door / 10' door / 9' door. The center door is wider so that I can back a trailer into the shop very easily. My lift will pick my car up high enough to hit the lights, and theres enough room for me (at 6' tall) to stand under the car and work. The lift is in the far left bay looking at the pic. IIRC, it was around $2600ish installed. Worth every penny lol. The panoramic picture is the inside of my shop before I installed the lift. I had to lose the catwalk section on the left wall to make room for the lift. The shop also has its own power pole, transformer, and panel... I get 2 power bills, but I never have to worry about what I plug in. And X100 on lots of outlets!!!
Yeah, ive got a lot of crap.
Yeah, ive got a lot of crap.
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I'd consider 11ft the minimum for a lift, 12 to be good and 13+ to be optimal.
I have about 11.5 and a 4 post it takes about 11ft of that to get the car high enough to walk under (6'1).
But that's only half the issue, most likely you own other cars that won't be a mustang which is relatively low compared to an suv.
Just keep in mind, mine is in an attached garage that I go in every day, walking around a lift with a car on it gets old real quick.
It's also a 4 post, so you lose 5 inches for the ramps.
The good part about a 4 is you can safely park under it or on it anytime quickly and easily (which I do, but I don't let my wife).
The down side is to get the wheels off you need a $1000 slide jack, per end.
I have about 11.5 and a 4 post it takes about 11ft of that to get the car high enough to walk under (6'1).
But that's only half the issue, most likely you own other cars that won't be a mustang which is relatively low compared to an suv.
Just keep in mind, mine is in an attached garage that I go in every day, walking around a lift with a car on it gets old real quick.
It's also a 4 post, so you lose 5 inches for the ramps.
The good part about a 4 is you can safely park under it or on it anytime quickly and easily (which I do, but I don't let my wife).
The down side is to get the wheels off you need a $1000 slide jack, per end.
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