Gauges moved, rear seats now match the front

Well, decided to add all the parts I had sitting around at my house (some I did a while back, but the rear parts are all recent)
Figured that I might as well, since I would have the rear apart on the lift so my buddy could add a new cobra diff and all new bearings.

So I have a redone rear, same 3.73's, new bearings, same friend did my auburn about 20 years ago, I got my moneys worth out of it for sure. But it was starting to be inconsistent.

Maximum motorsports extreme lower control arms
New/reinstalled quad shocks
H&R rear springs
MM panhard bar
Tilt column with momo wheel and ford horn button
MM steering shaft
Stifflers trans mount
Finally got to try out my recaro seats too

Installed a front sway bar from a new edge, due to the alternator a terminator engine requires you to cut off a fox sway bar mount. And a fox bar can't be installed lower because the drop of the front loop would be way to low. Had to have a friend bend the new edge bar (forgot which one, but it's solid). Welded a bracket to bolt to on the frame.
Works for my car, but remember my wheels are 18's, which helps because the bend is most of the way inside the wheel. 17's may not be so forgiving.

It's like a whole different car. Much more controlled.
I can say for sure that I can feel more of the road through the rear. It's not annoying, just different.
Handles much more like a go kart.

The panhard was a bit of a pain to install.
It's one of those tasks that until you get into it, you may not understand what the hell the directions are talking about.
Probably took me 3 hours. If I had to do it again, likely half that.
My dynomax ultraflo catback clears it, pretty easily (which is why I bought that catback).
While I was in there, I swapped out the flanges on the dynomax flow tubes that mate to the H pipe. They were ridiculously large, no idea why. Got 2 generics from summit for $10 (pair) and now I don't need boards to get the car off the lift.

The stifflers trans mount was a pain, when I was a kid I bent up the trans mounts to the frame with a jack. Their trans mount has zero give, you aren't manipulating it like a stock adjustable one with a pry bar.

Ordered all new connector pigtails for the column, since some pins don't stay in. Hopefully that will happen on Monday.
Also went to junkyard and got a new center vent section. Next up i'm removing the gauges.

I've been debating on replacing the oil pressure gauge at all or just doing away with it. I'm starting to believe that if my oil pressure it low, it's already too late and the engine has to come apart no matter what. Maybe i'll go to a warning light, not sure yet. I've had the car for a long long time, I suspect if something is up with the engine, i'll hear it.

Not totally sure what i'll do for the gauges, but I put the obdII port in the glove box back in the day and to my surprise even with the harness cut way down, it will read the engine parameters on a scan tool. So maybe i'll goto an obdii mutligauge.

Have new map pockets and all the parts to rebuild the doors panels so that will be soon too.

Next up I have a set of MM 94/95 spindle on fox bolt through adjustable tie rods.
My front end geometry is way out of wack.
Not looking forward to this project.
The steeda tapered kit I have on the car isn't nearly enough to solve the bumpsteer.

Thanks Blue.
I'm running out of stuff to do at this point other than fine tune it to make the most street friendly and drivable car as possible.
The only parts that are left that are stock are the front control arms right now.
I don't have a torque arm as of yet, not sure if it's necessary.

Today I received all 4 multifunction column pigtails from LMR, about $50 worth.
Unpinned the originals, unpinned the pigtails and they all went right in. Probably 20 30 wires.
It was as simple as using a tiny hobby flathead and pulling out the wires.

Depinned the new ones all at once, then did the ones on the car one at time.

Maybe this week i'll drill out the spindles and put on the tie rod kit.
After a quick look, it's going to take at least another inch past the steeda tapered kit to get it parallel to the lower control arm.
Then i'll judge the bumpsteer before going nuts trying to dial it all out.
I have access to the maximum motorsports kit, but even the guy that owns the kit doesn't use it on anything thing other than race cars.

Mustang5L5 said:

I love your seats. If only I could find a set like them.


Not looking forward to the MM PHB install on my car. I'm doing it solo, so the part that i'm worried about is holding it in place while I measure, and then remeasure before drilling.

Click to expand...

The seats are one of those things you may have to be persistent about. I know I go through my phases where I search for something, then forget about it for a while, then repeat. Mine were beat to death and for sure out in the weather at some point, not sure if $250 for a set with netted headrests is going to be duplicated that easy. So there may be some luck involved.

The phb isn't nearly as hard as the directions make it seem.
The way I see it, the main concern is getting the passenger side to match the drivers side since the drivers side measurement doesn't change.
I used a self tapper to hold the drivers side up.
I stood under the car, managed to hold passenger side in place (after a few tries) and mark the passenger side. I don't know if that task is going to be possible by yourself laying under the car.

I could have and should have asked for a hand, but I tend to work on things randomly on top of lacking patience for someone to come over.

Mustang5L5 said:

My worry is Swiss-cheering the rails. I just want to make sure 4 holes is all I drill.

Notice any difference with the PHB?

Click to expand...

I used a small sheet metal screw where I was to eventually drill the real hole. It was a calculated risk that worked out.

I'd say yes I could feel the panhard bar, but the car in general felt really tight and I didn't really push it too hard.
But Quads, lower control arms, h&r springs, steering shaft, the phb and a front sway bar is a really lot of parts at one time. I would say it would have been more odd if I wasn't impressed.

I'd bet the phb was responsible for the NHV. There is basically nothing that separates the rear from the chassis anymore.
By no means am I complaining about the feel, it's just I could tell it was different.

I'm going to put the tie rods on, then check all the bolts again, then i'll give it a little more spirited run.

FoxMustangLvr said:

What spindles are you running that's giving you bump steer issues? 96+?

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It's really not the spindles, it's the lowering combined with the k member.
Cars without k members can usually get by with just the tapered stud version of tie rods, but with k members it would appear that it just doesn't give you enough.
According to the maximum motorsports website, basically the bolt through tie rods are required on any car with an aftermarket k member.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=113138775657

Ordered one of these today. Going to take my spare shifter bezel and see if powdercoat guy will match is it as close as possible.
I wanted a double and not a triple and found it on ebay.
Just have to pick out new gauges that fit (the ones in the heating vent are 2 5/8 so they can't be reused).
Considering autometer Z series.
I figured the z series should look as close to the factory gauges as possible, feel free suggest others but i'd like the green to match the stock cluster and blend in as much as possible. I really hate when gauges are a focal point.

I was going to maybe try out a multi gauge from a couple different companies, the problem is they all wack you pretty hard by the time you have all the pieces. I can't see the multigauge being acquired for less than $500 from any company. Most hit you around $200 just for the oil pressure sender.

I've put more miles on it in the last couple weeks than I have in years.
Some thoughts.
With all these stout suspension parts, there just is plain old more noise and harshness.
Pushing this type of handling suspension on the street will require driving pretty dangerous and excessively fast.
A stock fox was iffy on a 30mph bend at 40mph.
Now, i'd probably have to drive 90mph to on that same bend to push it.
Maybe i'm getting old, but i'm not driving 90mph in a 30...

I always planned on a torque arm, but at this point I just don't know what it would add. It already exits corners fast and straight and for the most part even with the tires spinning I don't feel the need to let out of it.

And for anyone that doesn't believe foxes settle after new springs, I installed all suspension parts on the lift with a slide jack (goes between rails on lift). Put every bolt in without nuts, then installed all nuts with the suspension loaded on the rear and torqued them.
Put the car back on the lift today to retorque everything and damn x pipe hit the cross member again (it didn't first time I took car out). Thought I was past that, guess it's for life...