Gear install, anything else needed ?

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alot of my friends have replaced there gears without replacing all the components i have listed and have had alot of problems with there gears. if you replace all the parts i have listed you will have no worries if installed properly and the advise i have given you is a proper installation of gears i recently installed gears and i throughly researched this subject before my install and i'll pass this info. on to you...
 
bill302 said:
alot of my friends have replaced there gears without replacing all the components i have listed and have had alot of problems with there gears. if you replace all the parts i have listed you will have no worries if installed properly and the advise i have given you is a proper installation of gears i recently installed gears and i throughly researched this subject before my install and i'll pass this info. on to you...


yup theres no doubts im gonna get those, no worries, i dont want to have a ghetto stang.
 
drakesdad said:
There are some specs for the backlash.....make sure you write down what you hve on each side....it will make it easier when you pull it back out........There was a tool of friend of mine used to measure the backlash........def. will need a crush sleave...and a inner pinion bearing...


crush sleeve and all bearings required are in the master bearing kit link i posted and also almost forgot you will need a speedo gear to correct the speedometer this one worked good on my 95GT click on link below....


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/83-9...ewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQitemZ8040344265QQrdZ1
 
i hope i have not totally confused you but to reiterate


you need, gears(which you have).,master bearing kit(which contains differential pan gasket,bearings & races, Shim Kit, pinion seal, pinion nut, crush sleeve, ring gear bolts and checking compound w/brush). , 2 axle seals and bearings(these are not included in the master bearing kit).,1 traction lok rebuild kit which contains the friction modifier.,4 pints of of hyphoid gear lubricant sae 80 or 90.,speedo gear(to correct your speedometer).
 
One additional nasty surprise you could run into is the abs sensors. They mount in the way so you need to pull them to do the gear swap. Problem is, where the sensors mount, they quite often get corroded in that they need to be smashed out. If so, they are about $100 a piece (1 on each axle).
 
GRGT1994 said:
One additional nasty surprise you could run into is the abs sensors. They mount in the way so you need to pull them to do the gear swap. Problem is, where the sensors mount, they quite often get corroded in that they need to be smashed out. If so, they are about $100 a piece (1 on each axle).


Problem solved, I have no ABS on the stang (it's a GTS)
 
GRGT1994 said:
One additional nasty surprise you could run into is the abs sensors. They mount in the way so you need to pull them to do the gear swap. Problem is, where the sensors mount, they quite often get corroded in that they need to be smashed out. If so, they are about $100 a piece (1 on each axle).
10 years of debrit.......I broke one off, NAPA in Michigan got me one for 47.00......with our company's discount, very easy to replace
 
drakesdad said:
10 years of debrit.......I broke one off, NAPA in Michigan got me one for 47.00......with our company's discount, very easy to replace
No ABS, No problems then......ask Bill about the press......I only helped a friend put mine in, his dad is an engineer at Ford and he actually had some manual from Ford with the specs......He used a press to put the crush sleave on with....Bill will know more about this...
 
he is having someone install the gears they should know this info this info is in the links i posted........ you will need an inch/pound torque wrench and either an impact or a long breaker bar. Tighten the pinion nut down until you can no longer move the pinion gear back and forth. When moving it, you will hear a clicking noise from the play, tighten until the noise stops. Using your inch/pound torque wrench to check for pre-load, tighten the nut down until you have a drag on the pinion and it reads 16-29 in/lbs. for a new bearing, or 8-14 in/lbs. for a used bearing. Be careful, once the collar starts to crush and you get a reading on the wrench, it will take VERY LITTLE to get it in the right range. Too much and you will exceed the limit. If you exceed the limit, you MUST install a new crush collar and start again. I suggest tightening in 1/16 of a turn intervals between checking. So you should tighten with a breaker bar, check pre-load with torque wrench, tighten with breaker bar, etc.


you need a press to remove and replace the pinion bearing with a new one....