general questions about turbos/stock block

Put the ARP Studs in for sure.

My setup is pretty simple:
Hellion Turbo kit(bought used) and put my Master Power T70 on it
Stock block, internals and cam
Used TFS heads
1.7 Roller Rockers(the only thing I bought new for this build)
Exploder intake

I went with an AEM because it was actually cheaper than what I paid for a MAF/Tune/Chip combo and the MAF setup had horrible driving characteristics.

Make sure you get a good tune, why spend the money on everything and then low rent out on a good tune/aftermarket stand alone.
 
Put the ARP Studs in for sure.

My setup is pretty simple:
Hellion Turbo kit(bought used) and put my Master Power T70 on it
Stock block, internals and cam
Used TFS heads
1.7 Roller Rockers(the only thing I bought new for this build)
Exploder intake

I went with an AEM because it was actually cheaper than what I paid for a MAF/Tune/Chip combo and the MAF setup had horrible driving characteristics.

Make sure you get a good tune, why spend the money on everything and then low rent out on a good tune/aftermarket stand alone.

what does that make?

i was leaning towards a small turbo pushing 8 or 10 psi with gt40x heads stock cam and maybe a tfs or exploder intake. is the best turbo bet to get an on3 performance kit?
 
+1 on BG.

Buddy of mine who is a member here just put his BG kit on his STOCK STOCK STOCK 5.0 with supporting fuel and air intake mods and put down 396 hp and 511 tq to the wheels on a Mustang Dyno. Changed his ignition and coil and cranked it to 15 lbs after the tune and he said it pulls MUCH harder than the 11 lbs. As for longevity we will see, but his tuner is the best I have ever seen. He should be somewhere around 450 and 575 at the wheels now. Damn impressive if you ask me.
 
my friends stock block 347 made over 600 to the tires with a t76 turbo. he had the wrong converter in it and it did not leave hard but still ran a 9.99. he had mike murillo tune it. it was making like 11-12 psi and mike said that was the max he want to push the the stock block.
 
I would go B&G for a budget single turbo kit. For all piping, wastegate, intercooler, and a MP T70 it comes out to about $2200.


I would buy a B&G kit if it was $2200 but there not you still need a blow off valve added to that so im sure its over $2500..then you need a Y-pipe to go to the cat back...The on3 might not be the best but i see plenty of guys running them with good results plus there complete kit is $1475 and then y-pipe is 149.00 there Pro M maf is 195.00 so you can get a complete complete kit for just 2k...:shrug:..I will give it a try...I hear greta htings about B&G tho i wish i could get there kit for 2200...:(
 
+1 on BG.

Buddy of mine who is a member here just put his BG kit on his STOCK STOCK STOCK 5.0 with supporting fuel and air intake mods and put down 396 hp and 511 tq to the wheels on a Mustang Dyno. Changed his ignition and coil and cranked it to 15 lbs after the tune and he said it pulls MUCH harder than the 11 lbs. As for longevity we will see, but his tuner is the best I have ever seen. He should be somewhere around 450 and 575 at the wheels now. Damn impressive if you ask me.


Thats sweet!!!! So im figuring with my GT40 heads That have a 5 angle valve job,mild port work,TF valve springs,bronze valve guides,telfon coated valve steam seal,and stainless steel exhaust valves,1.7 roller rockers,70mm TB, and Trickflow Track heat intake,42 lb injectors,255 lph FP and 8-10 psi i should be over 400 rwhp then no..:shrug:
 
you cant just bolt a man girdle on, it is supposed to be torqed on the motor when the honing is done, and all the girdle is gonna do is keep the parts inside of the block safe, it does nothing for block strength, and if you dont have expensive parts in the motor its not worth trying to save them.

Put a mp70 on the 302 and start piecing together a stock block 351 while your hammering on the 302
 
and a main girdle helps the stock block out too right?

you cant just bolt a man girdle on, it is supposed to be torqed on the motor when the honing is done, and all the girdle is gonna do is keep the parts inside of the block safe, it does nothing for block strength, and if you dont have expensive parts in the motor its not worth trying to save them.

Put a mp70 on the 302 and start piecing together a stock block 351 while your hammering on the 302


The girdle some help spread of the impact from the rotating assembly (deflection) through to the other main studs. In that respect, I suppose you could say that it helps to strengthen the block. What kills the stock blocks though (more often than not) isn't the deflection... it's the twisting of the block when you let all that torque loose. Under that circumstance... Yeah... the girdle will hopefully contain your rotating assembly to see its installation into another block.

I'm starting to notice a bit of a trend though.... No documentation to back it up but I've been noticing that stock blocks running on the ragged edge tend to survive better when zero balanced vs. 28oz or 50oz imbalance. That could just as likely be from the blueprinting and additional attention to detail as it could the actual chosen imbalance though. :shrug:
 
you cant just bolt a man girdle on, it is supposed to be torqed on the motor when the honing is done, and all the girdle is gonna do is keep the parts inside of the block safe, it does nothing for block strength, and if you dont have expensive parts in the motor its not worth trying to save them.

Put a mp70 on the 302 and start piecing together a stock block 351 while your hammering on the 302

Agreed.

Honestly, I wouldn't put a set of GT40's on a stock block either. Unless you already have them or are getting them for basically nothing, you'll make just as much power with the E7's.

Take all that small coin money(price of heads, etc) and put towards better stuff in the future.

Tuning/Harmonics is what kills stock blocks IMO. They will last a long time if they aren't being spun real high and the tune is on. If I had a better fuel system I'd turn mine on up too but I'd do it by using a boost controller at the track and throw a few gallons of race gas in the tank at the track for extra insurance against letting it rattle.

Common sense goes a long ways when you're playing with fire.:nice:
 
I don't see the point in spending 200-300 bones on a main girdle when there is no guarantee (or even any good evidence) that it will help your engine survive any more power than one without. I see it as 200-300 bucks toward an aftermarket block, haha.
 
Agreed.

Honestly, I wouldn't put a set of GT40's on a stock block either. Unless you already have them or are getting them for basically nothing, you'll make just as much power with the E7's.

Take all that small coin money(price of heads, etc) and put towards better stuff in the future.

Tuning/Harmonics is what kills stock blocks IMO. They will last a long time if they aren't being spun real high and the tune is on. If I had a better fuel system I'd turn mine on up too but I'd do it by using a boost controller at the track and throw a few gallons of race gas in the tank at the track for extra insurance against letting it rattle.

Common sense goes a long ways when you're playing with fire.:nice:



I had the GT40's done for this mustang that had a Paxton on this car, but i sold it for the turbo set-up...so Im using the GT40's since there done already...I have to take the stock heads off for new heads gaskets and ARP studs..Plus im sure the stock heads the springs are shot these at least can handle the boost better...They have new springs,valves,valve seals,guides..So it will help out i think in the long run...Im leaving the stock cam with some 1.7's and a good Intake im using a Trake heat with a 70mm TB..i think this combo with boost should run pretty good...:shrug:
 
I would buy a B&G kit if it was $2200 but there not you still need a blow off valve added to that so im sure its over $2500..then you need a Y-pipe to go to the cat back...The on3 might not be the best but i see plenty of guys running them with good results plus there complete kit is $1475 and then y-pipe is 149.00 there Pro M maf is 195.00 so you can get a complete complete kit for just 2k...:shrug:..I will give it a try...I hear greta htings about B&G tho i wish i could get there kit for 2200...:(

True, but I priced the B&G setup with a MP turbo. On3's MP upgrade is $1740. I think the B&G also had a Tial wastegate, not a Chinese knockoff.
 
True, but I priced the B&G setup with a MP turbo. On3's MP upgrade is $1740. I think the B&G also had a Tial wastegate, not a Chinese knockoff.

You can upgrade it to a tial from him..And B&G doesnt sell a Y-pipe so that can cost a few beans to make one.His kit is complete bolt up and i can drive it right out of the shop just need a tune.....I think for me i as going to use the standard turbo that comes with the kit...its a 70 i might upgrade it to a MP turbo ...but i can get the y-pipe,turbo air filter,Pro M maf,even a moates chip from him too for i think less then a B&G ....I know B&G is a very good company tho...Well its not the 1st time i spent money on something that wasnt great...LOL...I'll give on3 a shot...:shrug: