getting a new 9" with disc brakes!

[12sec67]

everyone know here from my post - blew my rear - that i went to the junkyard to try and find a 9" and i had no luck what so ever!

i stopped by Pro Gear to get a quote for a new currie 9"housing with currie axles,bearings, shorten to any length, made to fit the new 2000 explorer rear disc brakes that i got from a junk yard.

Only $675.00

the expensive part is the center section! 9" 3rd memeber with a mini spool,gears, new bearing kit and labor is $665.00.

this sounds like a pretty good deal right?

 

[Edbert]

Not bad, but that doesn't include any of the center section (pumpkin/chunk) or brakes right? Does it include custom perch mounts or large bearings or anything like that?

 

[Gummi Bear]

With as much power as you're putting to the ground, I'd go to a full spool rather than a mini spool. They'll break much more easily, and for another $30 or so you can get a basically bombproof setup.

Another thing to consider is stepping up to 1350 U-joints rather than the 1310 that is on there now. 1350's are used on one ton trucks, and are so much stronger than the 1310 it's not even funny. You can keep the 1310's though as a fuse, I'd rather change a u-joint than rebuild a rear end. Look into Spicer Life Series joints, all others are inferior (*this is the voice of experience talking)

Put in a full driveshaft loop to keep that thing from flopping around and cracking the 3rd member and tearing the hell out of your floorpan in case you do kill a joint.

 

[Fastbackman]

What year is the mustang you're looking for a 9" for. If you need a granada rearend to fit in a 65-66, I know where I can probably pick one up. Not sure what I'll have to give yet and don't have a clue what the best shipping method would be or the cost from OK to CA though.
Ahh. If I had paid closer attention, I would have seen you have a 67.

 

[10secgoal]

Another thing to consider is stepping up to 1350 U-joints rather than the 1310 that is on there now. 1350's are used on one ton trucks, and are so much stronger than the 1310 it's not even funny. You can keep the 1310's though as a fuse, I'd rather change a u-joint than rebuild a rear end. Look into Spicer Life Series joints, all others are inferior (*this is the voice of experience talking)

Put in a full driveshaft loop to keep that thing from flopping around and cracking the 3rd member and tearing the hell out of your floorpan in case you do kill a joint.

For driveshaft loops !!!!! I just was told a tip a few days ago,too. Put two different strengths in the driveshaft. Put the weaker one in the back so,(like a fuse,like the man said)so you are more likely to drop the back one.

 

[Edbert]

I know that various sanctioning bodies have rules for where the DS loop needs to be installed and how. Rather than look it up on their websites myself and ease my curiosity I'd rather see SNFs information store grow...

So, where do these safety loops need to be installed?