Getting Lowered Tomorrow

[davesiar]

Well, it is finally warming up here in the crappy state of Ohio, and I have my appointment set for tomorrow morning. I am getting some suspension parts installed:
-BMR Springs 1.5 F and 2.0 R
-Tokico D-Specs
-BMR LCA relocation brackets
-BMR LCA's
-BMR Adj Panhard rod
-BMR Upper Strut Bearings
-Camber Bolts
Is there any advice that I can give to my mechanic? He has never lowered a new Mustang. Cut the bump stops?? Reuse anything?? Thanks for any advice.

 

[bigcat]

some of the suspension harware is one time use only. be sure to check the service manual for proper information.

 

[davesiar]

Well, I got everything installed, and I am not too happy. The front end looks fine, but the rear looks like the tires are in the trunk. I am also getting a clunking sound in the rear on the passenger side every once in a while when I hit a bump in the road at cruising speed. I can also duplicate it if I am driving in first without my foot on the gas really slow, and then tap the gas to make the car jolt forward. Anyone know what this could be?? Also, since I lowered the car, do I have to use the LCA reloc brackets and LCA's, or can I just use the factory LCA's and there brackets? Any insight would be great. Hopefully bigcat will reply.

 

[thump_rrr]

Well, I got everything installed, and I am not too happy. The front end looks fine, but the rear looks like the tires are in the trunk. I am also getting a clunking sound in the rear on the passenger side every once in a while when I hit a bump in the road at cruising speed. I can also duplicate it if I am driving in first without my foot on the gas really slow, and then tap the gas to make the car jolt forward. Anyone know what this could be?? Also, since I lowered the car, do I have to use the LCA reloc brackets and LCA's, or can I just use the factory LCA's and there brackets? Any insight would be great. Hopefully bigcat will reply.

Sorry to hear about your disappointment.
A couple of things to check as you have already noted the bumpstops.
For the clunking I'm gonna sound like a broken record but did he use a grease gun on the LCA's because he could have possibly split a bushing but the most probable cause is an exhaust pipe hitting the panhard brace.

 

[REDFIRE 05 GT]

2.0 in the rear sounds to much for me with 17 inch rims, the pro kit lowered mine 1.5 in the rear and I love the look. My only regreat is now I have 4 tires in the garage that are 245/45/17 and the side walls look about .5 lower than the stockers, I dont want my front any lower than it is now.

 

[bigcat]

Well, I got everything installed, and I am not too happy. The front end looks fine, but the rear looks like the tires are in the trunk. I am also getting a clunking sound in the rear on the passenger side every once in a while when I hit a bump in the road at cruising speed. I can also duplicate it if I am driving in first without my foot on the gas really slow, and then tap the gas to make the car jolt forward. Anyone know what this could be?? Also, since I lowered the car, do I have to use the LCA reloc brackets and LCA's, or can I just use the factory LCA's and there brackets? Any insight would be great. Hopefully bigcat will reply.

there are many things to check. with a drop this low, many more things can cause a problem than a less aggressive drop. things to check:

exhaust pipe clearance
are all bolts properly torqued?
are the springs clocked properly in the spring perches?
did the mechanic check pinion angle? with this drop, it needs to be checked and adjusted properly.
did you use an adjustable panhard with rod ends or poly ends? the rod ends will make noise.

look into those first, and report back. there could be more possibilities, but lets start there first. as far as the LCAs and brackets, with a 2" drop it affects your rear suspension geometry so much that you really should use the relocation brackets. IMO, the LCAs should be replaced with aftermarket ones no matter what--even without lowering.

 

[iskwezm]

Mine was lowered by Eibach, 2" front and rear and i have the same clunk once in a great while. I like the 2" drop look.

 

[Mr_Q]

Yes you need to use the relocation brackets. They put the arm back in to a level position after you lower it. It also allows you to put the arm in a "drag setup" position if you so wish. But I would not drive around in that setup. It makes the car very loose when you get on the brakes hard.

Surprised you dropped a full 2" in the back. I am down 1.5" in back and my tires and wheels are hardly "in the trunk". But I am running 18s with 40 series rubber. The stock 55 series rubber is just too much profile for a lowered car. This is why your car looks that way or might be why.

The upper bearings up front are the only "one use part" and I can see from your list you got the replacements. Make sure they were installed.

As for clunks and rattles...well...you should expect some. The stock setup is designed for quiet and comfort. Aggressive lowering and dampening is going to add some noise.

On my car the parking brake cable is rattling against the side of the car some where. Haven't found out exactly where. This happened after lowering and produces a lovely chattering sound when I go over lots of rough pavement.

Clunking is a sign of something more serious though. It could be that you are hitting your bump stops but that is unlikely. It's more likely your rear arms and links are binding up. Especially if you didn't install the relocation brackets. It can also happen from the panhard bar being adjusted wrong. I've also noticed full poly bushing arms tend to bind.

I cured most my binding issues AND kept the performance I wanted by going with a poly/rubber mix in my LCAs. They are definitely worth it. (see sig)

Now to figure out where the parking brake cable is hitting.

 

[bigcat]

The upper bearings up front are the only "one use part" and I can see from your list you got the replacements. Make sure they were installed.

one time use parts for the rear include:
rear caliper bracket bolts
UCA to axle bolt
shock nuts and bolts
LCA front and rear nuts and bolts
panhard bolts and nuts
panhard brace flag nut
swaybar nuts and bolts

also, anytime a fastener in the front is loosened or removed, it should be replaced as well, including the front hub nut. ford is using torque to yield fasteners on this car.

 

[Mr_Q]

Well, there ya go.