Getting rid of rattles?

BullittStangV8 · Jan 17, 2004

My 65 coupe rattles ALLOT when it gets up to speed/accelerating. i know some of it is age, however there must be a way to get some of the rattles to stop. Besides taking the interior apart and tightening every screw and securing every loose part, is there anyway to really get it to rattle and vibrate less? i know the exaust has somethign to do with it the rattles/vibrations. Has anyone laid down something like dynomatt or deadmat to quiet down the interior and to make the rattles less?
Mike

6Stang7 · Jan 18, 2004

How bad is the vibration?

-Shaun

dodgestang · Jan 18, 2004

BullittStangV8 said:
My 65 coupe rattles ALLOT when it gets up to speed/accelerating. i know some of it is age, however there must be a way to get some of the rattles to stop. Besides taking the interior apart and tightening every screw and securing every loose part, is there anyway to really get it to rattle and vibrate less? i know the exaust has somethign to do with it the rattles/vibrations. Has anyone laid down something like dynomatt or deadmat to quiet down the interior and to make the rattles less?
Mike

Quieting down a mustang is best accomplished in a 3 phase approach.

1. Stiffen the chassis...subframe bars, sway bars, t0boxes if you have an early one, etc.
2. Installing good sound deadener (dyno mat, the foil stuff, etc...)
3. Reinstall the interior with little bits of rubber between all body panels that contact each other

There is also another 3 step process that I find work in the interim
1. Chose CD
2. Insert in Radio
3. Turn up REALLLLLLY loud.

crushnut · Jan 18, 2004

dodgestang said:
There is also another 3 step process that I find work in the interim
1. Chose CD
2. Insert in Radio
3. Turn up REALLLLLLY loud.

Thats what i do

C0V3R · Jan 18, 2004

I find that all the linkages in the doors rattle a fair bit, partially due to age, partially design. Also some bits rattle in the dash. Ive been thinking about how to replace the door locking setup, but havent come up with anything that practical just yet.

jcp123 · Jan 18, 2004

my front suspension tends to make a fair bit of noise. but i spose my car is the exception in that I haven't had many rattles at all that weren't my fault. haven't even stiffened up the chassis at all

BullittStangV8 · Jan 18, 2004

the vibration isnt bad, its natural vibration just from the engine and drivetrain. i was thinking of going with subframes, as that usually helps eliminate some of the rattles and sqeeks in the frame and interior. at summitt the only weld in ones that i saw that fit the 65 was Competition Engineering. i havent heard of them before. is it a good company? what subframes do you guys suggest? also, dynomatt sells for a rediculusly high price, like 15 per square foot or something. does anyone know of a cheaper, but still effective matt, and how much it is?
Mike

dodgestang · Jan 18, 2004

BullittStangV8 said:
the vibration isnt bad, its natural vibration just from the engine and drivetrain. i was thinking of going with subframes, as that usually helps eliminate some of the rattles and sqeeks in the frame and interior. at summitt the only weld in ones that i saw that fit the 65 was Competition Engineering. i havent heard of them before. is it a good company? what subframes do you guys suggest? also, dynomatt sells for a rediculusly high price, like 15 per square foot or something. does anyone know of a cheaper, but still effective matt, and how much it is?
Mike

I run TCP subframe bars on my 65 FB....great design, easy to weld on, and they offer expansion opportunities...they are designed to work with tracktion master (shleby underriders) and they have an upgrade x brace. As for Dyno mat alternatives, there are plenty out there, I just can't find them in my bookmarks right now

GaPonyFarm · Jan 18, 2004

BullittStangV8 said:
the vibration isnt bad, its natural vibration just from the engine and drivetrain. i was thinking of going with subframes, as that usually helps eliminate some of the rattles and sqeeks in the frame and interior. at summitt the only weld in ones that i saw that fit the 65 was Competition Engineering. i havent heard of them before. is it a good company? what subframes do you guys suggest? also, dynomatt sells for a rediculusly high price, like 15 per square foot or something. does anyone know of a cheaper, but still effective matt, and how much it is?
Mike

Competition Engineering is an excellant company that makes top notch components. I have their Slide-Link traction bars. Subframe connectors won't help with rattles or vibration, but will definitely get rid of body flex, along with shock tower braces.

You can get carpet underlayment/sound deadener from www.mustangsunlimited.com at about $65.00 for the entire floor... it works well from my experience. For the side panels, you'll need dynomatt, if you want to go to that extreme..

BullittStangV8 · Jan 18, 2004

ive always heard that subframes would help get rid of some the the squeeks on the frame and body. either way ill be going with a set due to the added strength and the reduced body flex. i do already have a front shock tower brace. 3 point, connects at the tower and also at the firewall. ill check out the sound deadener as a better option.
Mike

sparkey67 · Jan 18, 2004

Has anybody ever thought about welding around the seems that have been spotwelded? For example around the shock towers. Some people say its a bad idea but others live by it. You think it would stiffin the chassis up very well.

SandSprite · Jan 18, 2004

I don't think that you want the Weld-in subframes from CE. you have to relocate the rear spring perch. You want the bolt in one, and then weld them in. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/f...m&Number=891193&PHPSESSID=&fpart=1#Post891193

Edit: for sound deadener, i think some people use this foil backed stuff from home depot. it's for heating and a/c. i think GP001 used it on his car.

Getting rid of rattles?

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