Getting screwed for an A/C repair.... advice needed THEY ARE HOLDING MY CAR

[Mike97gt]

I don't understand how a shop can fry your EEC doing A/C service and then expect you to pay for it. They are supposed to be professionals and know what they are doing.

I HIGHLY doubt they fried the PCM

------------UPDATE------------


The shop called this morning and told me that they wanted to work out a deal. They say, I will pay for the diag (which i was more than happy to do) in addition to the cost of the relay which they ordered and installed. I told him I wanted the car back how it was when i brought it in. He calls back and says ok, come get your car.

Later that day, I picked it up. Didnt pay a dime. I had put down in writing that my car is the exact same running condition as when I brought it in.

Soooo..... now I guess im stuck with no air.


Car seems to check out fine, nothing eratic all guages and everything seems to be in the same working order.

Sounds good..

Thats the main reason I brought it to them because in the phone book it mentioned how their main business was A/C work. I tried to avoid going to FORD because I was afraid of getting shafted doing "repair guesswork." Looks like that theory bit me right in the ass

MORAL OF STORY: If you dont have the know how to fix it yourself, find a mechanic you can trust.

Your moral of the story is 100 percent right

I guess my question now is, do I even pursue my A/C problem any further?
They concluded that the ECM that I have is bad, causing my car to think it is at WOT, hence why my air isnt blowing cold.

How can I go about finding out if in fact my ECM is bad? SVTTECH76? Any ideas?

And if it is bad, can I get an ECM off of any 99-04 from a junk yard, then Im assuming it would need reflashed? I dunno, someone school me

Well the first thing I would do is see if you have 12v at the low side cycling switch with the a/c system on ( i know it won't run but you need to have the selector switch on to test)

If you do have power on both sides of the low side switch test for power on both sides of the high side cut off switch.. If you do then check to see if you have power at pin #41 of the pcm connector DG/OG ( dark green with a orange tracer)

If you have power there then see if you have power at pin #69 at the pcm and at pin #22 of the ccrm If you do have power in all those tests then get back to me.

Remember do all these tests with a multimeter not a test light. If you pass all these tests then it's possible that you could have a damaged PK/YE wire that connects the pcm WOT a/c cut out circuit to the CCRM.. You could have a wire with 1 strand left.. This would allow enough power to pass to trick you into thinking you have power at the CCRM and it would also pass a continuity test.

It's also possible that if you have power to the CCRM on pin #22 that the CCRM they installed was the wrong one or damaged..

Well anywasy after you start testing post back.

if youre ECM thinks youre WOT at all times, youre a/f ratio would be off and cause a severe loss of power i would think. i would would get a second opinion from a reputable ford dealership. request one of the most experienced techs to work on your car.

This WOT cut out control could be stuck without effecting the rest of the PCM funtions.

 

[Superhereaux]

I tried to avoid going to FORD because I was afraid of getting shafted doing "repair guesswork." Looks like that theory bit me right in the ass

reminds me of an 'o1 S60 i worked on. she refused to take it to the Volvo dealership because she didn't want to pay out the nose so she took it elsewhere

long story short she spent over $6,000 on flushes, valvebodies, a transmission and an $1100 TCM only to have me repair the problem with a $37 software download