A stroker kit consist of a new crankshaft, longer rods, and shorter pistons.
There is a lot of research that needs to be done from here on out
- AFR 185cc
- Holley Systemax
- Custom cam from www.flowtechinduction.com
- 30 lb injectors (if EFI)
- 70mm TB
- 80mm MAF
- 1 3/4" Longtubes
Those are my suggestions...
A stroker kit consist of a new crankshaft, longer rods, and shorter pistons.
There is a lot of research that needs to be done from here on out
- AFR 185cc
- Holley Systemax
- Custom cam from www.flowtechinduction.com
- 30 lb injectors (if EFI)
- 70mm TB
- 80mm MAF
- 1 3/4" Longtubes
Those are my suggestions...
Now is this dual 3" exhaust? Because that is utter overkill for any street driven SBF.
Nice setup above, but my choices would be;
RHS215, TFS 225HP, AFR205 with shaft rockers
Probe EFI
Custom camshaft from www.camshaftinnovations.com
30lb injectors(EFI)
90mm TB(EFI) 850HP(Carbed)
90mm MAF(EFI)
1 3/4" minimum longtubes
When building a 347ci sbf which is a common "plant" and a "cookie cutter" stereotype... having one that accelerates quicker than the next person is pretty important to me.
The larger cylinder head allows the camshaft designer to "engineer" events into it and take advantage of it's performance potential.
If you're attempting to make your application street/track... you'll have no problems pulling vacuum either. With the larger head you don't have to have a "big" camshaft to make performance.
Nice setup above, but my choices would be;
RHS215, TFS 225HP, AFR205 with shaft rockers
Probe EFI
Custom camshaft from www.camshaftinnovations.com
30lb injectors(EFI)
90mm TB(EFI) 850HP(Carbed)
90mm MAF(EFI)
1 3/4" minimum longtubes
When building a 347ci sbf which is a common "plant" and a "cookie cutter" stereotype... having one that accelerates quicker than the next person is pretty important to me.
The larger cylinder head allows the camshaft designer to "engineer" events into it and take advantage of it's performance potential.
If you're attempting to make your application street/track... you'll have no problems pulling vacuum either. With the larger head you don't have to have a "big" camshaft to make performance.
3" exhaust won't hurt peformance.
It's the first 14" from the exhaust port and collector when connected to that.
I have read of many 2.5"-3" swaps with no significant gain, if any on some stroked 351s.
The camshaft timing has to be tied into this. With a camshaft that has less and later exhaust activity, as opposed to "vice versa," you may see some gains. With later exhaust timing, and adding larger exhaust to what already exist, it can decrease cylinder pressure, and there-by relieving you of some torque you once had.
HP = Torque x RPM/5252. What happens to the end product of horsepower, if your "plugged-in" torque is decreased (loss of cylinder pressure)?
This is why the camshaft has got to be tailored for the big exhaust.
The primary tubes can vary from 12"-36", or are you alluding to something else?
I do not see a 347 using anywhere near the flow capabilities of a 90mm TB.
A 90mm MAF will flow differently than a 90mm TB, because of obstructions and design.
Displacement * RPM * VE / (1728*2) = Volumetric flow of the engine in CFM
The 1728 converts from in^3 to ft^3, and the 2 comes from dividing RPM by 2 in order to get the actual number of intake strokes.
Make sure you type in 1.00 for VE instead of 100.
Take a 7,000 RPM 347: You are looking at 703 CFM. A 90mm TB flows almost 1400 (1369) CFM. Why do you need the extra 95% more flow? Keep in mind, this 347 is at 100% VE. Not to many of those around...
Now an engine does not see 28" all the time of course, it can be up and it can be down, but there are conversion factors for this, which will end up drawing even more air in. As the vacuum goes up, so with the CFM.
More air does equal more power, but only when you can use it.
Not trying to offend, just trying to see where you are coming from 347HO...
IMO, a 70 MMTB and a ProM 75MM MAF would work fine.
I am going with 30lbs all using AFR 185's. You can always massage them later on for more power.
Also, why does everyone go with a custom cam? I am looking into this option, just wanted to see what the benefit is?
I want something that will pull from 2,000 to 6,500 rpm. Not really a high revver but good enough for a fun street car that only driven on nice suny days on the weekends. I hope to put about 350 to the rear. i don't want to max it out or anything.
A custom cam cost $325 for Ed's cams. Now take $325 and subtract an average OTS cam cost, like $200. This leaves about $125 more dollars to spend.
For this extra $125, it does many things:
- Better driveability
- Better vacuum
- Better power everywhere
- Matched to the exact combination
- Expertise
It is well worth it in most peoples opinions. Pick the camshaft last
Ed is at FTI? there is also Buddy Rawls and someone else correct?
I would love to have a nice sound to it, but still be very streetable. say something in the .520-535 lift??
More air does equal more power, but only when you can use it.
Not trying to offend, just trying to see where you are coming from 347HO...
Ed Curtis' email is edcurtisFTI@verizon.net.
His website is www.flowtechinduction.com.
Buddy Rawls email is rawls1103@aol.com.
His website is http://wighat.com/fcr3/.
They both have some good info on their webpages.
I like their "before" customer service better.
Lift is not a streetability factorI had .560" and know a couple near the .600" and have great driveability. In fact, lift tends to help in many cases.
I daily drove my car for a few years this way.
There are a ton of factors in the streetability of a vehicle. The camshaft is big in that department. The pros will do what you want
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