Im getting my block stroked to a 347 right now and i was wondering what else i can do. what would be the best cam to go with and what kind of heads and intake. And how big of an electric fan should i get or is the electric even worth it? I need lots of help I dont no where to go from here????????
Getting Stroked now what?
- Thread starter drews87stang
- Start date
A stroker kit consist of a new crankshaft, longer rods, and shorter pistons.
There is a lot of research that needs to be done from here on out
- AFR 185cc
- Holley Systemax
- Custom cam from www.flowtechinduction.com
- 30 lb injectors (if EFI)
- 70mm TB
- 80mm MAF
- 1 3/4" Longtubes
Those are my suggestions...
There is a lot of research that needs to be done from here on out
- AFR 185cc
- Holley Systemax
- Custom cam from www.flowtechinduction.com
- 30 lb injectors (if EFI)
- 70mm TB
- 80mm MAF
- 1 3/4" Longtubes
Those are my suggestions...
If your on a budget, the shorties will be fine. I believe Bassani and AFM make 1 3/4" shorty headers.
Longtubes are better by a small margin, if you are willing to pay for them.
Make sure your custom cam grinder knows about your full 3" exhaust.
Longtubes are better by a small margin, if you are willing to pay for them.
Make sure your custom cam grinder knows about your full 3" exhaust.
ford302redneck
Member
A stroker kit consist of a new crankshaft, longer rods, and shorter pistons.
There is a lot of research that needs to be done from here on out
- AFR 185cc
- Holley Systemax
- Custom cam from www.flowtechinduction.com
- 30 lb injectors (if EFI)
- 70mm TB
- 80mm MAF
- 1 3/4" Longtubes
Those are my suggestions...
x2.
x2.
Would you really need 30 pounders with that setup? I only ask because I'm going with a similar 347 setup soon and I'm rockin 24's.
Damn! I quoted the wrong thing!
A stroker kit consist of a new crankshaft, longer rods, and shorter pistons.
There is a lot of research that needs to be done from here on out
- AFR 185cc
- Holley Systemax
- Custom cam from www.flowtechinduction.com
- 30 lb injectors (if EFI)
- 70mm TB
- 80mm MAF
- 1 3/4" Longtubes
Those are my suggestions...
Nice setup above, but my choices would be;
RHS215, TFS 225HP, AFR205 with shaft rockers
Probe EFI
Custom camshaft from www.camshaftinnovations.com
30lb injectors(EFI)
90mm TB(EFI) 850HP(Carbed)
90mm MAF(EFI)
1 3/4" minimum longtubes
When building a 347ci sbf which is a common "plant" and a "cookie cutter" stereotype... having one that accelerates quicker than the next person is pretty important to me.
The larger cylinder head allows the camshaft designer to "engineer" events into it and take advantage of it's performance potential.
If you're attempting to make your application street/track... you'll have no problems pulling vacuum either. With the larger head you don't have to have a "big" camshaft to make performance.
3" exhaust won't hurt peformance.
It's the first 14" from the exhaust port and collector when connected to that.
MrXCESSIVESPEED
Member
x 2
i would go with at least a 205cc cyl head and matching hardwareIMO......
but in reality the overall set up will depend on
1- your budget
2 - your goal for the car
If I was to build a 347, I would go with a AFR 205 head. But, there is a reason why I did not suggest it.
The stock block...
I would hate to spend 2k on put it on a stock block.
If he is looking for full reliability, the stock blocks can be to inconsistent. I have seen stock block 347 blow-up in person, because of an insufficient building practice. They were only revved in the 6,500-7,000 RPM range. Not knowing who the builder is, I did not want to chance telling him to spend that kind of cash.
Believe me, I thought about it.
The AFR 185 will do just fine under 6,500 RPM. He did not mention a higher rev. combination and quite a few have gotten over 400 rwhp with the AFR 185cc heads.
Jay can build you a nice camshaft, but I grow tired of his mudslinging at forums like this by name calling everyone ignorant and dumb. I do not support someone that cannot control his attitude unprovoked.
I have read of many 2.5"-3" swaps with no significant gain, if any on some stroked 351s.
The camshaft timing has to be tied into this. With a camshaft that has less and later exhaust activity, as opposed to "vice versa," you may see some gains. With later exhaust timing, and adding larger exhaust to what already exist, it can decrease cylinder pressure, and there-by relieving you of some torque you once had.
HP = Torque x RPM/5252. What happens to the end product of horsepower, if your "plugged-in" torque is decreased (loss of cylinder pressure)?
This is why the camshaft has got to be tailored for the big exhaust.
The primary tubes can vary from 12"-36", or are you alluding to something else?
I do not see a 347 using anywhere near the flow capabilities of a 90mm TB.
A 90mm MAF will flow differently than a 90mm TB, because of obstructions and design.
Displacement * RPM * VE / (1728*2) = Volumetric flow of the engine in CFM
The 1728 converts from in^3 to ft^3, and the 2 comes from dividing RPM by 2 in order to get the actual number of intake strokes.
Make sure you type in 1.00 for VE instead of 100.
Take a 7,000 RPM 347: You are looking at 703 CFM. A 90mm TB flows almost 1400 (1369) CFM. Why do you need the extra 95% more flow? Keep in mind, this 347 is at 100% VE. Not to many of those around...
Now an engine does not see 28" all the time of course, it can be up and it can be down, but there are conversion factors for this, which will end up drawing even more air in. As the vacuum goes up, so with the CFM.
More air does equal more power, but only when you can use it.
Not trying to offend, just trying to see where you are coming from 347HO...
I have read of many 2.5"-3" swaps with no significant gain, if any on some stroked 351s.
The camshaft timing has to be tied into this. With a camshaft that has less and later exhaust activity, as opposed to "vice versa," you may see some gains. With later exhaust timing, and adding larger exhaust to what already exist, it can decrease cylinder pressure, and there-by relieving you of some torque you once had.
HP = Torque x RPM/5252. What happens to the end product of horsepower, if your "plugged-in" torque is decreased (loss of cylinder pressure)?
This is why the camshaft has got to be tailored for the big exhaust.
The primary tubes can vary from 12"-36", or are you alluding to something else?
I do not see a 347 using anywhere near the flow capabilities of a 90mm TB.
A 90mm MAF will flow differently than a 90mm TB, because of obstructions and design.
Displacement * RPM * VE / (1728*2) = Volumetric flow of the engine in CFM
The 1728 converts from in^3 to ft^3, and the 2 comes from dividing RPM by 2 in order to get the actual number of intake strokes.
Make sure you type in 1.00 for VE instead of 100.
Take a 7,000 RPM 347: You are looking at 703 CFM. A 90mm TB flows almost 1400 (1369) CFM. Why do you need the extra 95% more flow? Keep in mind, this 347 is at 100% VE. Not to many of those around...
Now an engine does not see 28" all the time of course, it can be up and it can be down, but there are conversion factors for this, which will end up drawing even more air in. As the vacuum goes up, so with the CFM.
More air does equal more power, but only when you can use it.
Not trying to offend, just trying to see where you are coming from 347HO...
Exactly, its not really going to hinder much, but for the cost, its really not doing much on anything but a full race motor.
I want to make sure that I keep this clear though:
A larger throttle body cannote hurt your straight-line performance.
There are two associations with the large throttle bodies that are often stated and they mean the exact same thing...
1. More throttle response
2. Touchier throttle response
Just keep those in mind and efficieny of parts in mind.
A larger throttle body cannote hurt your straight-line performance.
There are two associations with the large throttle bodies that are often stated and they mean the exact same thing...
1. More throttle response
2. Touchier throttle response
Just keep those in mind and efficieny of parts in mind.
88-378
Member
IMO, a 70 MMTB and a ProM 75MM MAF would work fine.
I am going with 30lbs all using AFR 185's. You can always massage them later on for more power.
Also, why does everyone go with a custom cam? I am looking into this option, just wanted to see what the benefit is?
I want something that will pull from 2,000 to 6,500 rpm. Not really a high revver but good enough for a fun street car that only driven on nice suny days on the weekends. I hope to put about 350 to the rear. i don't want to max it out or anything.
I am going with 30lbs all using AFR 185's. You can always massage them later on for more power.
Also, why does everyone go with a custom cam? I am looking into this option, just wanted to see what the benefit is?
I want something that will pull from 2,000 to 6,500 rpm. Not really a high revver but good enough for a fun street car that only driven on nice suny days on the weekends. I hope to put about 350 to the rear. i don't want to max it out or anything.
A custom cam cost $325 for Ed's cams. Now take $325 and subtract an average OTS cam cost, like $200. This leaves about $125 more dollars to spend.
For this extra $125, it does many things:
- Better driveability
- Better vacuum
- Better power everywhere
- Matched to the exact combination
- Expertise
It is well worth it in most peoples opinions. Pick the camshaft last
88-378
Member
A custom cam cost $325 for Ed's cams. Now take $325 and subtract an average OTS cam cost, like $200. This leaves about $125 more dollars to spend.
For this extra $125, it does many things:
- Better driveability
- Better vacuum
- Better power everywhere
- Matched to the exact combination
- Expertise
It is well worth it in most peoples opinions. Pick the camshaft last
Ed is at FTI? there is also Buddy Rawls and someone else correct?
I would love to have a nice sound to it, but still be very streetable. say something in the .520-535 lift??
Ed is at FTI? there is also Buddy Rawls and someone else correct?
I would love to have a nice sound to it, but still be very streetable. say something in the .520-535 lift??
Ed Curtis' email is [email protected].
His website is www.flowtechinduction.com.
Buddy Rawls email is [email protected].
His website is http://wighat.com/fcr3/.
They both have some good info on their webpages.
I like their "before" customer service better.
Lift is not a streetability factor
I had .560" and know a couple near the .600" and have great driveability. In fact, lift tends to help in many cases.I daily drove my car for a few years this way.
There are a ton of factors in the streetability of a vehicle. The camshaft is big in that department. The pros will do what you want
No offense taken.
The restriction on an engine whether carburetor or a throttlebody is the the throttle blade. As you've already mentioned... the larger TB's advantage is at wide open. Also mentioned was the camshaft events, and that's so true. What I'm getting at is what is the air column doing from the back of the valve to the throttle blade at any position? With a well setup cylinder head, custom camshaft, get that air column into the cylinder with as much pressure as possible. I believe the larger area of the 90mm throttle blade allows atmosphere pressure to enter the intake plenum, runners and cylinder head ports quicker than the said 70mm with less speed and more pressure.
So yes, I agree the application pertains more to wide open and drag racing, but at any other throttle position... they both are restricting airflow.
88-378
Member
Ed Curtis' email is [email protected].
His website is www.flowtechinduction.com.
Buddy Rawls email is [email protected].
His website is http://wighat.com/fcr3/.
They both have some good info on their webpages.
I like their "before" customer service better.
Lift is not a streetability factor
I daily drove my car for a few years this way.
There are a ton of factors in the streetability of a vehicle. The camshaft is big in that department. The pros will do what you want
Jay Allen is the other guy, right?
The only problem i see is not specifically the cam, i am sure all these guys are great and will most likely go with one of them, it's the tune. when i get it dyno tuned here in GA i am afraid that most guys will tune it and possibly burn a chip for WOT which is not what i want. I would spend up to roughly $500-$750 for a properly tuned car that takes into consideration driveability. I don't think there is anyone around me to do it!
I really don't want to take my son to football practice on a nice fall night or the family out for ice cream this spring and have my car bucking like a girl you just told, your sister likes it this way, while hitting her from behind!
