Going Kenne Bell (again)

tmoss said:

Good to hear - keep going...........

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there is still alot left to do ... i bet there is alot more power there when i get he tune right.

Synned said:

THe marks you are looking for are on the harmonic balancer, under the crank pulley. Get under the car and look behind the crank pulley, and have someone or yourself keep cranking the car untill you see the markings. Then mark 10*. It's very hard to see if you have the stock balancer, look really close.

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thanks. i have the bbk pulleys. at least now i know where to look.

someone asked for a list of supporting mods, so here goes:

stuff used:

the blower was used, and the guy threw in a bunch of stuff, including belts of different lengths, pulleys, 30# injectors, tubing, thermostats, a boost retard controller, and more

i already had this stuff:
- a c&l 80mm maf
- a k&n filter
- a tweecer for tuning
- a pvc fenderwell intake

i got this stuff on ebay:
- frpp 42# injectors
- walbro 255 fuel pump

i got this stuff from my local parts supplier:
- various sizes of vacuum tubing, connectors and tees
- gaskets
- new bolts and studs
- rtv sealant
- radiator hose to re-route the hose under the belt.
- a pipe and some hose clamps to connect the 2 pieces of radiator hose

stuff i had to modify for the install:
- the coil needs to be moved somewhere.
- - i moved mine above the tfi, which meant extending the wires.
- the act (air charge temp) sensor was moved into the #5 runner on the lower intake
- - this meant extending those wires too.
- - this is recommended, but not strictly necessary
- the vacuum hookups have to be relocated to the hookups on the front of the blower
- - the fuel pressure goes after the blower so it sees boost.
- - the others go on the other side so they only see vacuum
- there is a different thermostat housing
- the radiator hose needs to go under the belt, not over it like stock
- - you can still go over the belt and use the stock ts housing if you want, but the belt comes thru higher so you would still have to mod the hose.

tmoss said:

As said, yes they are - but they need to be ported to really let the KB breath. MatZ281LE is running one with a box upper (not a KB) and making 606RWHP.

by the way, my job changed here at Mercy and I never did make it back down to Rogers. I understand the new hospital is really comming up quickly now.

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You work at a hospital? Which one? I write software that is sold to hospitals (I work for SoftMed Systems) ...

The NJ Exile said:

You might look in to the Holley Lower... I will fit. I ran my 1.5 on it untill I upgraded to the 2.2 and GT-40 Lower (so I could run the Flowzilla intake)

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i have a holley lower (i bought it with the blower for $100), but someone said only older models fit because they have the stock bolt pattern. apparently new holley lowers have a different bolt pattern, but i do not know that for a fact ... i am just repeating what someone else said.

01/16 update

i have been fighting an oil leak. i have been messing around with the vacuum tubing because i was losing oil. it looked like it was getting pushed or sucked up through the pcv. as a result i was venting both the pcv and the valve cover vent to the atmosphere.

so i took my son to the p.g. sportsplex for a track meet on saturday morning. i drove it hard for about 1/2 hour on the beltway because we were late and the car seemed to be running well. when i pulled off, i saw the smoke. not alot, but i could see and smell it.

so i stop in the parking lot at fedex field and re-did the pcv and vent cover tubing. venting them to the atmosphere didn't seem good, so i put them on a tee and connected them to the vacuum side of the blower.

on the way home i was watching for smoke. it was easy to see because there was alot of it. so i pulled off into a mcdonalds and popped the hood. oil all over the driver's side back of the engine, all down the bell housing, the exhaust, and even splattered on the rear bumper. smoking like a chimney.

the weird thing is that i was not very low at all on the dipstick, and the blower was still full, so i don't really know where all the oil came from, unless it was filled higher than i thought.

i drove the rest of the way home very gently.

so i took it to my mechanic today and told him the story. he said the pcv needs vacuum and the valve cover vent can't have it. if anything, vent the valve cover before the t/b, which he did. he also said that it doesn't look like the oil was coming from the lower (which i was worried about), he said it looks to be coming out the (cork) valve cover gasket near #8. he then tried to get more oil to come out by driving it hard a little and was not able to. he also put in the 255 fuel pump and a new filter.

on the way home, it felt really strong. i drove pretty hard, but there was alot of traffic and i couldn't really get on it much. there was a little smoke when i got home, but that could be oil from before still burning off.

i am taking it back to the mechanic again tomorrow for the coil-overs, c/c plates, and balancer. i'm going to try to drive it hard to see if i can get more oil to come out for him.

here is the vacuum routing i have now:



oh, and now that it is making good power, i find out that my clutch is slipping. in 4th gear at about 3000 rpm, i mashed the gas. at about 3500, all of a sudden the tach jumped to 5500 and the car went nowhere. it's always something, huh?

KBCobra95 said:

Congrats, now lets get some vids or atleast some pics!

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the oil leak seems to have been the valve cover. we tightened it down and made sure the pcv and other vacuum lines were correct, and i haven't had any problems since.

when my mechanic put on the new harmonic balancer, he also installed the fuel pump, set the timing, and put the spout connector back on. it feels stronger still. now i can start working on the tune ...

here are some pics ... they are not very good, i still can't find my camera. these are from my cell phone:



he also intalled the coil-overs and the c/c plates:

bso said:

I just installed a 1.8 Flowzilla KB on stock bottom end like yours, but I have not driven the car yet and waiting to get it to the dyno. My kit is used and is from another mustang including the chip. The previous owner had the IAT sensor just hanging in the engine bay and had no problems. My research on the kB shows that the IAT sensor should be relocated after boost and preferably on the lower intake (I have a GT40 lower). Where did you mount yours and how has the car been running? My last question is about the plugs: Have you tried the iridiums plugs one heat range colder? Lastely, your car pictures look great and I think KB is a unique blower for our cars!
Thanks,
-bso

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1.8L ... like mine. usually they are either 1.5L or 2.2L ... how did the last guy get a 1.8L?

my IAT is in the lower intake, near the #5 runner. i had to extend the wire to reach. i also had to come up with a new location for the coil.

the car has been running like crap (see this thread for details: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=644529), but i blame myself, not the kb. i am a newbie on working on my car and i am going the self-tuning route with my tweecer, and i am sure it is those things that are causing my problems.

i have been having some pinging when it is fully warmed up (IAT temps can be above 230*!) and i recently melted a plug wire on a header because i didn't have a heat shield boot. i pulled the plug about 15 minutes ago and the plug is cracked. that would explain the miss.

no i have not tried the iridium plugs, sorry

i currently have motorcraft asf32c plugs (one range colder),

i just got autolite 23's (2 ranges colder), new wires and heat shield boots. i'm hoping that will help alot.

re the car pics: thanks! i think the kb is an awesome blower, but i do wish there was a way to use it with an intercooler.