Going Kenne Bell (again)

the upper intake is out ...
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here is the systemmax that is going in ... can the ACT go in that bung where the #5 runner is?
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this ain't kansas anymore ...

i guess i need to take the distributor out ... how do you do that?
 

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Theres one hold down bolt and then the thing jsut pulls up(after you take off the cap) You may want to mark which way the dizzy is pointing to make finding TDC easier later. I think if you want to plug the ACT into the #5 runner you might need to get a fox ACT unit as theres are metal and ours are plastic. Dont quote me on that.
 
BlueOvalStangGT said:
Theres one hold down bolt and then the thing jsut pulls up(after you take off the cap) You may want to mark which way the dizzy is pointing to make finding TDC easier later. I think if you want to plug the ACT into the #5 runner you might need to get a fox ACT unit as theres are metal and ours are plastic. Dont quote me on that.
thanks, it's this bolt, right? newb question, i know, but i'm a newb at this stuff ...

what if i put a piece of masking tape across the dizzy to keep it from moving ... bad idea?

another question: should i take the lower off with the fuel rails and injectors still on and then transfer them to the new lower, or is there a better way?
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Thats the bolt. I just use a little white out on the inside of teh dizzy across from where the rotor is pointing and i make some sort of reference for the dizzy to block.

I dont know which way is easier, but this last time i just left my rails hooked up and just unbolted them from the intake and grabbed the injectors out. Its only 4 bolts and you can swing it out of the way to get the lower out. I guess it comes down to personal preference but i think leaving the rails hooked up to the lines will save a couple minutes.
 
I was just thinking, I know that the FPR needs to see boost, but what about the other things that get vacuum from the intake (e.g.-the vacuum tree)? is it "safe" for them to see boost?

in other words, what do i need to protect from boost with a one way valve?
 
well, i got the lower out today. i didn't have too much trouble, but i have never done this before so i am going slowly and trying to make sure i don't break something. up until now, the throttle body was the farthest i ever got to taking the engine apart.

now i have to get new gaskets and then i can put the systemmax in.

it is going slowly, but i am making progress ... :nice:

pics later.
 
BlackVert said:
:lol:

actually, i like this stuff :)

this is what i want to do when i grow up.

Hell yes ... Its a blast to bolt on a bunch of Hot Rod parts :nice:

I just don't have the money to do it on a regular basis :bang:

Looking forward to how it all works out for you :D

Grady
 
I should get new gaskets even if these aren't broken, right?

And does the valley look OK? I have never seen one so I wouldn't know if something was awry or not. :nono:

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The valley had some antifreeze get through it (almost unavoidable) - see how it cleans the gunk off the valley and spider where it sits? The valley is a little gunky, but not bad at all. Be sure you pull the spider and clean all the antifreeze out and change the oil too.
 
BlackVert said:
what should i use for the front and back beads? silicone?


yea, you could pickup the orange hi temp/pressure silicon (it smells like vinegar) make a FAT bead on the china walls than use that attachment (cut halfway down) to make a smaller bead around all thos coolant ports (connect the beads around the ports to the china walls) the goal is to avoid gaps in the silicon. you can also smear some on the intake side of the intake gasket for the ports. just to be safe. make sure the gaskets dont move when you put the lower on.. im sure you kno all this crap tho, if you put that other intake on. have fun and when in doubt, ASK!