Going to the track sunday...
- Thread starter silvrgt
- Start date
caballo
I'm the bastard love child of a threesome gone awr
scalder
Member
silvrgt said:
No burnout required. Just drive around the water box and light em up long enough to dust em off. I don't know, I guess like you're showing off at a traffic light or something.
No burnouts on the stock tires. Try to avoid the waterbox as much as possible, which isn't easy at Capitol. Once past the waterbox, rev the engine and drop the clutch to spin the tires over a few times and roll to the tree. No need to hold the brake or anything. You basically just want to clean any water/debris/etc off the rear tires, not heat them up.
As for launching, do what works best for you. If you're good at slipping the clutch, hold the engine at 4K RPM, and work up from there to find your sweet spot. If you're not good at slipping the clutch, dump the clutch from 15-1700. If you spin (which you will on street tires), don't let off the gas. Instead feather the pedal until the tires grip, then mat it.
As for launching, do what works best for you. If you're good at slipping the clutch, hold the engine at 4K RPM, and work up from there to find your sweet spot. If you're not good at slipping the clutch, dump the clutch from 15-1700. If you spin (which you will on street tires), don't let off the gas. Instead feather the pedal until the tires grip, then mat it.
scalder
Member
scalder
Member
Found this somewhere, some time ago. Just copied up to this point.
My one piece of advice is not to worry about your reaction time, it has no bearing on your ET....Good Luck and post up the times/slips when you get back.
Since this is for beginners, I will assume you are on street tires.
DO NOT DRIVE THROUGH THE WATERBOX! Your treaded
tires will just pick up water in the treads, and when you do your
burnout, it will sling water all over inside the wheel well. You will
then track the water all the way down the track, and water will be
dripping down onto your rear tires, making them VERY slick!
If you do this, you make the track dangerous for everyone, and
you may be asked to leave if you do it again. The water is for slicks,
not treaded tires. DRIVE AROUND THE WATERBOX, then get
your car centered in the lane. Back up slightly if needed. For street
tires, I 'personally' do not think that a burnout does much at all.
Street compounds are hard, and high performance tires are
specifically designed to not heat up. Heat causes high speed tire
failure, that is why you paid big bucks for "Z" speed rated tires. Now
your trying to heat them up??? If I run my street tires, I do a quick,
short burnout to clean the tires off.
10. Do not pull up to the tree! Every beginner does this. The staging
beams are actually about 15 feet or so BEFORE the tree! Hopefully,
you took my advise and watched the other cars run first, and looked
to get an idea where everyone else was pulling up to. If you cant
figure it out, don't worry, the starter knows it is "street night", and
will felp you. When he realises you cant find the staging beams,
watch him. He will walk up next to your car, and motion to you to
either pull up, or back. Again, don't get embarrassed, or upset.
The starter has to do that probably 20-30 times a night. SLOWLY
pull forward until you see the very top, small yellow light come on.
You are now "PRE-STAGED". It is considered a racers courtesy
to wait for the other car to prestage, before staging. Then gently roll
forward a few more inches, and the other small yellow light right
under the top one will come on. You are now "STAGED". Do not
roll forward too far, or the "PRESTAGED" light will go out, and
you may be required to pull back, to relight that light. That is called
"deep staging", and is usually not allowed on street nights. There
-should- be a blue light turned on, on the tree, which notifies all
racers that "deep staging" is not allowed. If you do accidently pull
forward too far, and deep stage, DO NOT PULL BACK UNTIL
INSTRUCTED TO DO SO BY THE STARTER. He may just
start the tree anyway, and you would be sitting there in reverse!
Now, watch that very bottom, large yellow light!
11. The starter will activate the tree, and the yellow lights will come
on, one at a time .5 seconds apart. When the last yellow light comes
on, GO! By the time you react, then your car reacts, the green light
will be on. Trust me. If you red light, it is no big deal. Afterward,
check your reaction time, and adjust. .500 is a perfect light on a
standard tree (The pros use a tree where all the yellows come on at
once, then green. A perfect light on a pro tree is .400).
My one piece of advice is not to worry about your reaction time, it has no bearing on your ET....Good Luck and post up the times/slips when you get back.
Since this is for beginners, I will assume you are on street tires.
DO NOT DRIVE THROUGH THE WATERBOX! Your treaded
tires will just pick up water in the treads, and when you do your
burnout, it will sling water all over inside the wheel well. You will
then track the water all the way down the track, and water will be
dripping down onto your rear tires, making them VERY slick!
If you do this, you make the track dangerous for everyone, and
you may be asked to leave if you do it again. The water is for slicks,
not treaded tires. DRIVE AROUND THE WATERBOX, then get
your car centered in the lane. Back up slightly if needed. For street
tires, I 'personally' do not think that a burnout does much at all.
Street compounds are hard, and high performance tires are
specifically designed to not heat up. Heat causes high speed tire
failure, that is why you paid big bucks for "Z" speed rated tires. Now
your trying to heat them up??? If I run my street tires, I do a quick,
short burnout to clean the tires off.
10. Do not pull up to the tree! Every beginner does this. The staging
beams are actually about 15 feet or so BEFORE the tree! Hopefully,
you took my advise and watched the other cars run first, and looked
to get an idea where everyone else was pulling up to. If you cant
figure it out, don't worry, the starter knows it is "street night", and
will felp you. When he realises you cant find the staging beams,
watch him. He will walk up next to your car, and motion to you to
either pull up, or back. Again, don't get embarrassed, or upset.
The starter has to do that probably 20-30 times a night. SLOWLY
pull forward until you see the very top, small yellow light come on.
You are now "PRE-STAGED". It is considered a racers courtesy
to wait for the other car to prestage, before staging. Then gently roll
forward a few more inches, and the other small yellow light right
under the top one will come on. You are now "STAGED". Do not
roll forward too far, or the "PRESTAGED" light will go out, and
you may be required to pull back, to relight that light. That is called
"deep staging", and is usually not allowed on street nights. There
-should- be a blue light turned on, on the tree, which notifies all
racers that "deep staging" is not allowed. If you do accidently pull
forward too far, and deep stage, DO NOT PULL BACK UNTIL
INSTRUCTED TO DO SO BY THE STARTER. He may just
start the tree anyway, and you would be sitting there in reverse!
Now, watch that very bottom, large yellow light!
11. The starter will activate the tree, and the yellow lights will come
on, one at a time .5 seconds apart. When the last yellow light comes
on, GO! By the time you react, then your car reacts, the green light
will be on. Trust me. If you red light, it is no big deal. Afterward,
check your reaction time, and adjust. .500 is a perfect light on a
standard tree (The pros use a tree where all the yellows come on at
once, then green. A perfect light on a pro tree is .400).
propellerhead
New Member
xseler8
Member
blksgrl
New Member
stock, my 01 gt went 14.58.....don't wait until the green to leave!! lol...that was the hardest thing for me-reaction time, but you'll get used to it! after your first pass, you'll wanna hotlap, but don't....just go have fun!!! 
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