going turbo instead

oink, i just noticed this on TM.com:

MagicBus said:
if you don't mind shipping the turbo, that might be a good idea to double check things. Just make sure you pack it good with bubble stuff, as to not ding up the exhaust wheel.
sorry i didn't see it before. still want the rest of it? i can ship it 3 day express tomorrow if so.

let me know.
 
lol, hey its not done yet, it's in the ugly stages still.

I was going to post some pics when it's all done, on the engine stand, so you have a better idea of what it looks like.
But yea, thats basically it.. Finished welding up the downpipe and O2 bungs tonight. I will finish this setup by Thursday for sure. It's just so hard to find time to do this stuff, ya know.

BTW, no, I wont need the turbo any longer, looks like everything will fit just fine.
 
OinkAodeOink said:
lol, hey its not done yet, it's in the ugly stages still.

I was going to post some pics when it's all done, on the engine stand, so you have a better idea of what it looks like.
But yea, thats basically it.. Finished welding up the downpipe and O2 bungs tonight. I will finish this setup by Thursday for sure. It's just so hard to find time to do this stuff, ya know.

BTW, no, I wont need the turbo any longer, looks like everything will fit just fine.
excellent. would powder coating work on the headers? i know a guy who can do it cheap.

i'll transfer the money from savings to checking tomorrow. do you want paypal or a check? the thing that bugs me about paypal is the fee they take off the top.

pm me your daytime phone and i'll call you to work out the details.
OinkAodeOink said:
Hey guys, yea thats part of the turbo setup you see.. It is indeed a shorty header flipped ( pass side) and the EGR bung is what you see. It was not a longtube header, btw. I have a brass cap over the EGR bung to block it off. There would be no real benifit to cut it off, and weld it shut.. so I just left it alone.

So to anyone who said you cant use shorty headers flipped on an SN95 with p/s a/c swaybar, stock brackets,ect.. It can be done, and done very simple actually.
just curious, what brand shorty headers are they?
 
Sent you a PM on turbomustangs..

BTW, you know.. im not sure if it's a powder coating process or if the same place can do it, but I had mine coated by a shop locally, and they turned out awsome! It was called Ceramichrome.. It's basically a ceramic coating, I suppose.

I would atleast try to get something that can take 1500*
 
sorry, one other question ... i'm not being picky or anything, but i am curious ...

why curve it out toward the fender here? isn't there like a tfi module or something right near there?


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Dude, go with brian, he has single headers for $550, plus about $150 for the downpipe. Add your turbo and BOV and it's done. Use the el-cheapo PVC (which is good to show to an exhaust shop once you have money) and use a volovo intercooler. They are realy cheap like $30 on ebay $15 in the junkyard. You really want to avoid higher temperatures and it's cheap...

:EDIT:
Mevermind you are doing a good job fabbing yourself. But still get the intercooler.
 
NakedRaygun said:
Dude, go with brian, he has single headers for $550, plus about $150 for the downpipe. Add your turbo and BOV and it's done. Use the el-cheapo PVC (which is good to show to an exhaust shop once you have money) and use a volovo intercooler. They are really cheap like $30 on ebay $15 in the junkyard. You really want to avoid higher temperatures and it's cheap...

:EDIT:
Mevermind you are doing a good job fabbing yourself. But still get the intercooler.
i did talk to brian. his price was $650 ($550 if there were enough SN95 guys for a group purchase a month later), the downpipe was $300, and no wastegate. oink does GREAT work, he charged less, there was less wait, and he included a tial wastegate. it was a no-brainer.

i am planning on doing the cold side with pvc. maybe i'll go to the junkyard near the office at lunchtime and see if i can get my hands on an intercooler. it would be nice to get it done now rather than having to take everything apart (again) later to add it. it'll probably help lower the possibility of detonation too.
 
BlueOvalStangGT said:
Are those stock headers? Are you gonna have to pull the header to do a sparkplug change? Looks pretty sweet though.
yep ... stock headers, on opposite heads. i dunno about the spark plug changing, but it's def. something to keep in mind. since the pieces are all connected with v-bands, it should be easy enough to take it apart to get the headers off if necessary.
94TURBO5 O said:
Chris
Are you running an FMU on this? I have the one from my PTK kit that I'm not using if you need one. It's an all billet one.
no fmu, i have 42# injectors. i probably should upgrade the fuel pump too, but that is on the list for later.
 
You shouldnt have to remove anything to change the plugs.. I designed it that way.. It might be little more cramped then stock, but not a problem.

BTW, B&G is great and his prices are SUPER cheap, but he does require relocation of the ABS module and lines, which just adds another issue into the install. I tried to design this setup with ease of install and plug changes in mind, to an extent atleast.
 
Had too much fun last night, and didnt get the wastegate outlet finished like I imgined doing.. 30 minutes and its done.. so no big deal. It will be ready to ship in time anyhow.

I got to paint the drivers header and crossover, and will paint the rest when done.. I used the 2000* VHT stuff in Silver because thats what he wanted..

Heres the pics

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lookin good ... i can repaint it black later if i made a bad choice and end up not liking it in silver ...

would painting the turbine housing with the same stuff be a bad idea? does that get hotter than 2000*?

are you thinking the pipe to the intake will go in the space just above the wastegate outlet? it probably depends on if i use an intercooler or not.
 
I dunno, I would keep it silver for now, no use in repainting it.. But for the coating to be effective you have to heat cycle it.. Which is like 10 minutes of driving, let it sit, then 20 minutes and let it sit, and then it should be good to go.. Atleast thats what the VHT directions said.

I could spray the turbine housing for ya if I have enough paint leftover.. No it wouldnt be a bad idea, and would work.. I sprayed two housings with heat paint and they both seemed to last and hold up fine. I did bake them in the oven at 475 for an hour though, to cure the paint.

For the intercooler to t/b pipe.. It should come right above the downpipe, where the bend down is, right behind the V band clamp on the turbine housing. Your going to have to make a 45* or greater bend from the t/b to the hole in the inner fender ( the one next to the strut tower and abov the TFI module).. If you route your cold side correctly, you should be able to use the exsisting hole in your inner fender
( the one I mention above) It should be large enough to fit a 3" pipe through.

BTW, im going on vacation for the weekend, so I won't be able to post any replies to the thread until Monday. fun fun!