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Good street tires for 400+ hp

  • Thread starter Thread starter oz
  • Start date Start date Feb 14, 2013
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oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
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Plymouth, MI
Feb 28, 2013
#21
  • Feb 28, 2013
  • #21
Tegr8 said:
If they're tight, no biggie. You got a bat at home? May just have to roll those fenders
Click to expand...

I have heard of rolling the fenders but exterior paint is just not meant to flex like that. I'm not sure how it's done and there is no way I'd try it myself...

I'm confident they'll fit but I'll mock it up before I mount them.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
8,029
1,621
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NJ
Mar 1, 2013
#22
  • Mar 1, 2013
  • #22
oz said:
I have heard of rolling the fenders but exterior paint is just not meant to flex like that. I'm not sure how it's done and there is no way I'd try it myself...

I'm confident they'll fit but I'll mock it up before I mount them.
Click to expand...

It sure isn't meant to flex, i know from experience. Making relief cuts helps.

Simply mocking it up isn't going to cut it. Real driving is what it takes to find out.
I run 275/35/18's (bfg's which definitely run wide) and it's the bumps and turns that cause the rubbing, i took the spacers out which cured hitting my rolled fenders (which is the side that tears up the tires), but in hard cornering it still rubs minorly on the inside, so i bought a panhard bar to fix lateral movement.

I'd be more prepared that the fenders need rolling, a 275 drag radial is alot of meat for an old fox.
 

oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
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Plymouth, MI
Mar 1, 2013
#23
  • Mar 1, 2013
  • #23
2000xp8 said:
It sure isn't meant to flex, i know from experience. Making relief cuts helps.

Simply mocking it up isn't going to cut it. Real driving is what it takes to find out.
I run 275/35/18's (bfg's which definitely run wide) and it's the bumps and turns that cause the rubbing, i took the spacers out which cured hitting my rolled fenders (which is the side that tears up the tires), but in hard cornering it still rubs minorly on the inside, so i bought a panhard bar to fix lateral movement.

I'd be more prepared that the fenders need rolling, a 275 drag radial is alot of meat for an old fox.
Click to expand...

Well, I sure hope I didn't just buy myself more problems.... Maybe 245/45R17 all around would have been a better idea...
 

atey950

Founding Member
Aug 5, 1999
516
60
59
Southeastern PA
Mar 1, 2013
#24
  • Mar 1, 2013
  • #24
my car made 435 rwhp on my last dyno pull and I just ordered a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials. 275/40/17's. The fenders are rolled and I can't imagine them fitting otherwise. I'm already running a 275 tire on it now so I know the MT's will fit.
Having driven my car for a while now on Yokohama street tires, I am officially sick and tired of zero traction. It was fun for a little while but I don't drive the car much. Anyway, enough is enough and now I want some bite. If something else snaps as a result, so be it. There's no fun in losing to a car that has less power, but hooks like a beast. I'm looking forward to being able to use 1st gear again!

You have to decide what you want. If you want traction, get a drag radial and prepare to snap something. Maybe something like a BFG comp would give you a little improvement but I can't imagine it being really noticable.
 

ReefBlueHatch

Active Member
Jan 12, 2010
682
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39
Central KY
Mar 1, 2013
#25
  • Mar 1, 2013
  • #25
For the guys that run DRs - what do you do to not rip torque boxes?
 

oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
1,079
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Plymouth, MI
Mar 1, 2013
#26
  • Mar 1, 2013
  • #26
I took preemptive action and installed torque box reinforcements (inside and around lower control arm pocket) as well as upper control arm reinforcements. They were bolted in and then I welded them. I also installed a rear end brace.
Since I just bought my DR's - only time will tell if my modifications are effective.
 
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90lxcoupe

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 7, 2003
3,596
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Mar 1, 2013
#27
  • Mar 1, 2013
  • #27
welding the seams and installing the reinforcement plates is a good start
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
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Mar 1, 2013
#28
  • Mar 1, 2013
  • #28
^^ in addition to the above I cut a pocket into the inner frame rail and weld a 2"x2" square washer to the inside of the frame rail for the bolt to pass through into the torque box. It ties the torque box to the frame much better if you ask me. We have had cars with 1.2x 60's for years with no trouble pulling out boxes
 

oz

Founding Member
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Mar 1, 2013
#29
  • Mar 1, 2013
  • #29
The box reinforcements I placed outside the control arm pocket had a hole that the bolt passed through. I'm not sure it that's similar to welding a washer inside the frame but I think it will help. If there's space, I can always weld a washer to the inner most face of the pockets too if that would help keep from ripping the control arm mounting holes.
 

89stang1

Stroked and Juiced
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Nov 5, 2008
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Mar 3, 2013
#30
  • Mar 3, 2013
  • #30
ReefBlueHatch said:
For the guys that run DRs - what do you do to not rip torque boxes?
Click to expand...

I have Wild Rides upper & lower battle boxes, I run nitto 555r drag radials not the best dr for traction but good wear and street manners why i buy them on my third set now. Also they are not as wide as 275 mickey drs or most other 275 drs so they fit on my car without rolling fender, clears quad shocks too. Oz with your power level you want a 275 dr in back for sure not 245s
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
1,562
480
94
Fort Myers, Florida
Mar 4, 2013
#31
  • Mar 4, 2013
  • #31
Yep, seam welding and torque box reinforcements to keep everything nice and tight back there.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
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Mar 6, 2013
#32
  • Mar 6, 2013
  • #32
oz said:
The box reinforcements I placed outside the control arm pocket had a hole that the bolt passed through. I'm not sure it that's similar to welding a washer inside the frame but I think it will help. If there's space, I can always weld a washer to the inner most face of the pockets too if that would help keep from ripping the control arm mounting holes.
Click to expand...
That's good for the one side. Cutting the a pocket in the rail and welding into the opposite side just makes both sides tied in versus one side. What you have done will definitely help the longevity of your torque boxes.
 

oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
1,079
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Plymouth, MI
Mar 10, 2013
#33
  • Mar 10, 2013
  • #33
Ok, I've got my wheels and tires... just put one of the wheels on the back and I don't see any way to make the 275 fit.

First of all, I got a set of 17 x9 Cobra R rims w/ +18 mm offset and it looks like they stick out almost even with the top of the wheel well. If I run a 245, I might have a chance of clearing the fender lip - but I don't see the 275's working. I would have to roll the lip under the fender for sure.

Secondly, I can see some light rubber marks on my exhaust pipe as it goes rearward next to the corner of the gas tank - and that's with 225's on it. I'm thinking I'd have to go with dumps instead of running the pipes to the back. Not the end of the world but something I'd rather not do - especially since it's a convertible (fumes coming in).

Finally, I didn't flip the quad shocks over so I'm not sure if they'll clear the wheel and the main shock but it will be close.

So, am I missing something? Is the wheel offset wrong? I don't want to get them mounted until I resolve this issues - so I can still return them if needed.

Suggestions please?!?

THANKS!
 

Illuminator

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
219
10
29
So. Cal
Mar 10, 2013
#34
  • Mar 10, 2013
  • #34
How much wider are the 275's vs. 245's? I need new tires and 245's aren't cutting it(spinners). They use to rub but with shortened axles not having that issue. Don't think next size will make it.
 

oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
1,079
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58
Plymouth, MI
Mar 10, 2013
#35
  • Mar 10, 2013
  • #35
275'S are 30 mm's wider - or 1-1/4" - or 5/8" per side.

What offset are your wheels?
 

Illuminator

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
219
10
29
So. Cal
Mar 10, 2013
#36
  • Mar 10, 2013
  • #36
I need to remove them and check, were on car when I got it. Fronts have a 1/4" spacer and still rub the a-arms with u-turn / hard stop. Want to say they are 17 x 9 with 5-6" offset. Don't think there's any way another 5/8 will clear
 

David Pepiton

Active Member
Dec 17, 2011
662
68
49
Laveen, Arizona
Mar 10, 2013
#37
  • Mar 10, 2013
  • #37
your offset doesnt seem right please post pics.

heres a pic of my 17x10.5 with 275s i will be going with 315s next.

 

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oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
1,079
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Plymouth, MI
Mar 11, 2013
#38
  • Mar 11, 2013
  • #38
Thanks for the picture David.
I'm not sure if yours is lowered at all but I have Eibach springs that lower the car about an inch. I fogot all about that until I saw your picture and saw how much distance you have between the top of the tire and the fender lip. I'm not going to have nearly that much space.
It was pretty late when I started this last night so I need to look at it again and take some measurements.

As for the offset - w/ +18 offset on a 9" wide rim, I think that would give me 5.21" backspacing (4.5" + 18 mm/25.4 mm/in) - I need to just measure it though.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
5 Year Member
Jul 2, 2009
5,222
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Mar 11, 2013
#39
  • Mar 11, 2013
  • #39
With a little cutting and welding you can fit any tire you want, lol.
 

oz

Founding Member
Jun 29, 2000
1,079
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58
Plymouth, MI
Mar 11, 2013
#40
  • Mar 11, 2013
  • #40
84Ttop said:
With a little cutting and welding you can fit any tire you want, lol.
Click to expand...

True - but lets assume that I don't want to modify the external fender shape. I am willing to roll the lip that extends inward toward the tire and I'll reroute the exhaust if i have to but nothing that involves repainting.
 
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