Good street tires for 400+ hp

2000xp8 · Mar 16, 2013

oz said:
245/45R17's front
275/40R17's rear
All on 17" x 9" Cobra R's w/ +18 mm offset

It all goes back to wanting more meat to handle the hp level I have. With a stock bottom end, I think having good but not great traction may be a good way (the only way) to keep from blowing it up. In hindsight, I should have just gotten 4 245's I guess. I saw so many people running the 275's that I didn't think the fit would be an issue.

Suposedly Discounttiredirect.com can issue a return shipper that will save me a few bucks vs just taking them to UPS myself. I guess I'll go that way and then order 2 more 245's.

Extra width is over rated, when using drag radials 30mm's doesn't mean much.
Years ago i ran nitto 225 50 16 drag radials and they worked pretty good.

oz · Mar 16, 2013

Hey Iluminator, is that your dog in your avatar? It makes me laugh but grosses me out at the same time...

oz · Mar 16, 2013

Yea, i pulled the trigger on my tire purchase a little faster than I wanted. I saw that discounttiredirect was giving a $50 rebate on 4 Nitto's - only through 2/28 so I bought on 2/28.

atey950 · Mar 16, 2013

Does nitto make a tire that can compare to Mickey ET street radial?
...that sounds like a google search. Just wondering.

Illuminator · Mar 17, 2013

oz said:
Hey Iluminator, is that your dog in your avatar? It makes me laugh but grosses me out at the same time...

No....found that online... this is mine....View attachment 132618

a better view of my lack of clearance with gas tank out of the way....anyone know what all that jagged/torched metal is?
View attachment 132621

84Ttop · Mar 17, 2013

atey950 said:
Does nitto make a tire that can compare to Mickey ET street radial?
...that sounds like a google search. Just wondering.

Absolutely no comparison if you ask me. M/T is the best of the best.

atey950 · Mar 17, 2013

84Ttop said:
Absolutely no comparison if you ask me. M/T is the best of the best.

That's what I thought. Seems that nitto is more of a street tire and Mickey is more of a slick. Plus Mickey Thompson is just badass

2000xp8 · Mar 18, 2013

This is why I like the bfg's, they are a nice happy medium.

Sent from my Lumia 900 using Board Express

84Ttop · Mar 18, 2013

^ They still make drag radials?

Just kidding..

oz · Mar 18, 2013

Now I need to find out what size spacers I need to keep my 17 x 9's from touching the back edge of the front lower control arm when I turn the wheel all the way. With 245's on the 17 x9's, the wheel rim will touch the arm. I'd like to space it outward enough so that the rubber touches - if anything.

84Ttop · Mar 18, 2013

I'm not a fan of wheel spacers, would a tubular control arm help with the clearance any?

oz · Mar 18, 2013

84Ttop said:
I'm not a fan of wheel spacers, would a tubular control arm help with the clearance any?

Good question. I'll have to investigate. I would consider spacers a temporary countermeasure.

2000xp8 · Mar 18, 2013

I've run spacers in the rear with no problems, but most people i know that ran them in the front did away with them because they had issues with the lugs loosening up. Not my experience, but it would be enough to prevent me from doing it.

Really seems like you are willing to go through quite a bit of trouble to run these wheels. Running tubular control arms will add to your headache, first it will be finding a set that works with the stock k that has spring perches, then you'll realize that it's easier to get a k member kit, then you will find that you can't get the ride height right and you will be on to coil overs, then the wheels you are killing yourself to use hit the coil overs and you have to start all over.

Honestly, just get a set of wheels that fit right.
I know you have them already, just keep in mind they are fairly cheap and easy to come by, they just aren't worth modding the car to make them work.

oz · Mar 19, 2013

My stupid 'bargain' purchase has turned into a real pain in the butt... they look nice though.

Since the wheels touch the rearward facing flange on the lower front control arm I have been tossing around in my head taking the control arms out, boxing them in with some 1/8" plate and removing the rear flange. Not sure if this would be enough to keep the wheel from touching but I don't think it could hurt. In a more radical move, I could re-engineer the rear section and rebuild it with more clearance.
I had to notch my Maximum Motorsports brace when i installed my blower (outlet tube interfered with the bottom of the tube). I cut out a 1/4 moon shape and then welded in a plate to try to get close to original strength. No problems so far. Yea, that's not a control arm... a little more risk there.

84Ttop · Mar 19, 2013

Only you know if your fabrication skills are up to snuff to the point in which it would be safe. I do all my own Chassis and Fab work and have been welding for a long time. If you do decide to attempt to modify the control arm please post some pictures. We had a 69 camaro that we built with twin YSI's and we had to make a custom upper control arm for the pass. side to clear the blower volute.. Great results and all chromoly with no trouble for the last two years but hours and hours of thought went into the design. Anything can be done, but again you have to decide if it's safe enough to put someone else behind the wheel. Any hesitation as to the safety of something generally means it is not that safe..

oz · Mar 19, 2013

84Ttop said:
Only you know if your fabrication skills are up to snuff to the point in which it would be safe. I do all my own Chassis and Fab work and have been welding for a long time. If you do decide to attempt to modify the control arm please post some pictures. We had a 69 camaro that we built with twin YSI's and we had to make a custom upper control arm for the pass. side to clear the blower volute.. Great results and all chromoly with no trouble for the last two years but hours and hours of thought went into the design. Anything can be done, but again you have to decide if it's safe enough to put someone else behind the wheel. Any hesitation as to the safety of something generally means it is not that safe..

Good points. With my mechanical engineering degree and all the practice I've had with my MIG, I think I can come up with a good redesign. Since the rear arm is mostly in compression, I'm a little less concerned than I would be modifying the front arm of the triange.

That said, can I use mild steel plate/bar stock or do I need to go with a better steel? If so, what would you suggest and can I weld it with my MIG?

Thanks!

84Ttop · Mar 19, 2013

I think mild steel would be adequate in the right thickness. I tig weld almost everything. I think there is much better control of heat, penetration and filler.

oz · Mar 19, 2013

I have a lot of practice with the mig but I'm no expert. I never tried tig.

Good street tires for 400+ hp

2000xp8

oz

oz

atey950

Illuminator

Active Member

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

atey950

2000xp8

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

oz

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

oz

2000xp8

oz

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

oz

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

oz

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Good street tires for 400+ hp

Active Member

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

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