That'll do too
I didn't realize it would have to be changed untill I was already into it.
same here... had to make an emergency trip to the local wrecking yard. Good thing one of the guys there is a mustang guy... he matched up the cobra flange (which I had removed and brought in) to a 95 explorer driveshaft flange for me.
not a whole lot since i have the 03 lower control arms which are longer than the fox body ones... bolted right in as a result
IRS swaps are pretty easy.
The only thing is...and I'm not knocking putting the bolts through the trunk pan as that is how most people do it, but that method is a bit questionable as far as strength is concerned.
When people ask me about it, I suggest opening doors in the trunk pan over top of the frame rails first, and then drilling and affixing the rearend to the fram rail rather than the pan. Once that is done, you can tack weld the corners of the door down (do not bead the seam as you may have to get in there again) and seam seal the rest.
If you do it through the pan, I would recommend some reinforcing plates.
That is before the rearend was tightened down. The doors look ugly there, but once they are tacked down and sealed, it looks fine.
Why not leave the body metal in place and drill your pilot holes all the way through the fame and body. After you drill the frame and body 1/4", use the drill size that matches the bolt size and drill just the frame. Then use a 3/4" or 7/8" hole saw on the body so you could directly access the frame area to hold the nuts with a socket or box end wrench. Much neater and a couple of cheap Body-Tite plastic plugs cover the holes.
Alternate plan: use the cutaway method and weld a piece of angle iron inside the frame to work as a stiffener or reinforcement
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