Got Some Money, Hows This Sound?

onefstsnake

New Member
Nov 25, 2005
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Northern VA
Well I will have about $2,500 to play with on the Mustang.

here is my list so far in order of importance.

1. Summit or Fluidyne Radiator w/ Mr. Gasket 180* TStat $300-400

2. MGW Shifter $180

3. Seats... (Corbeau's) $800

4. Oil Pres., Oil Temp., and Water Temp Gauges. $150

5. Subframes (full length) $150

6. CC Plates $150


Cant think of much else... I think the Diff or U Joints need a rebuild or replacement.

Anything Im forgetting?
 
idk if you NEED a new radiator like if yours is bad, but id get an electric fan instead, and a new alternator if you need one, shifter sounds good, drop the seats man, factory seats can be very comfortable if you rebuild them, 800 is way to much for seats, but its your choice, only thing cc plates do is allow for perfect alignment, if you dont have springs or shocks i wouldnt worry about it, the extra money id get an aluminum driveshaft, and get a trac lock rebuild kit for 40 bucks and have a shop install the clutches, itll be a new car with those few things, subframes should be first on the list
 
My drivers seat back is busted...No lateral support... $800 was for Corbeau TRS seats and brackets.

I have Steeda Springs so I need the CC plates to get the front camber right.

Need the radiator...Stock one leaks.

Thinking about an exhaust... Will LT's scrape on a lowered car?
 
Well i would like to get a few things fixed before i do alot of performance stuff.

The engine has 114,000 miles on it.

Radiator, Seats, and CC Plates are a must.

And the car is a DD so I need to get decent mileage...
 
well do the things that are a must then for sure, id look into some ebay seats or someone selling their factories 800 is way to much money to spend on seats and i gaurantee youll regret it. After that do the subframes, aluminum driveshaft, and if your having one wheels peel problems get the track lock clutches for sure.
 
stock replacement radiator 100-120 bucks
junkyard seats 250-350 bucks for nice ones ...
UPR caster/camber plates 150 bucks
trickflow stage one cam 140-150 bucks
buyfordracing.com has gt40x303 heads for 999
MGW shifter 180
subframes 150
cobra intake 350-400

grand total 2499 using the highest numbers above
 
Will the stock radiator handle 100* plus weather in stop and go driving with the AC on?

Should I go with the Trick Flow cam or a FMS cam?
I was thinking about getting AFR 185's with a E303 cam.

I need everything to be emmissions legal...

Is the Typhoon intake decent for $320?
 
The seat frame is repairable. The upholstery slides off after you remove the headrest. A welding shop can repair the damage to the seat back frame very easily for less than $25.

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...


94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.


*1.) I got a metal flange adapter from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was over a year ago. Summit Racing may also have one too.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
http://www.poweredbyford.com/
 
I bought a new 3 core replacement copper radiator for $150. As far as mileage and you're car being a daily driver, heads/cam/intake combo will not really affect that. On my 80k stock longblock I did AFR165's/FTI cam/and performer RPM intake. The combo made 303/332 at the rear wheels, drove as good as stock, and got 17-20mpg around town, and 24-26 on the highway. That was with 3:73's and a 5spd. I still run the same radiator and stock clutch fan on the 418 with no cooling issues (block is 1/2 filled too).
Mike.
 
if you need gas milage, why 4.10's? but i think your very smart to get all the required things fixed before you go for the trickflow, one guy mentioned above the trickflow for 2000 and then the rest of the $500 for the shifter etc. The trickflow kit will probably cost alot more than $2000, because you need to decide who is going to install it, if you do it to save money, their are always things that can go wrong, and alot of odds and ends you need to buy. I would just get everything you mentioned because you need the reliability and you need the car for a DD.
 
srothfuss said:
Don't forget to replace / repair those old brakes also... Often an overlooked area on all of our cars!

Funny that you mention that. I just did the front brakes last week.
VXB Pads and Stock Rotors.


1. As for the seats...I would really like something with more lateral support. And from what Ive seen, you dont get much of that untill you get to the 2003 seats... Ive called every Junkyard in the area and none of them have many or any mustangs, new or old.

2. Radiator, I guess I could just go with the HD one from LRS for like $150. Aluminum just looks nice. lol

3. Need to replace the weatherstripping on both doors. And a few Misc. Interior pieces.

4. Fuel Sender/Pump. Both from LRS 255lph and the stock sender.

5. Some Sort or Performance Item...

Is there a good "bang for the buck" item for the 5.0's? Like will a set of AFR 185's net me 35hp to the wheels?

Typhoon Intake?

Guess I need to search. :)
 
Just alittle advise. Dont spend more then 85% of that money if your using it all on your car. When you go to fix stuff on your car, you are ALWAYS going to find something else that is wrong. Imagine you spend the 2499, of course thats not adding the prices of shipping, and taxes (when you need to go buy the gaskets and little stuff at autozone). now your in debt alittle, whose gonna install those parts? a cam is not an weekend project, that stuff cost money. And when your ripping a motor apart like that like i said before, your going to find things that are wrong, you need to leave money for the little things.

Start with the little stuff you need first, if your radiator is in good condition, getting an electric fan and a 3g alternator both for a few hundred bucks at a junkyard, even if you have to go a ways to get it, will dramatically lower the effort it takes to cool the car down.

For the seats trust me, they can be fixed, have a shop weld them back up like jrichker said, for 25 bucks you can fix it, and have someone recover them, thats exactly what i did with my seats, fixed them and recovered them with vynal, its been more then a year and their perfect.
heres some pics
before:
b84693b5.webp


Here they look sturdy and strong, and like i said before the stock seats can be comfortable and provide support.
After:
016_8A.webp


Now if you want those seats by all means go for it, but i personally think when your on a budget, a pair of $800 seats is just ridiculous when you could use 500 of that for other things to fix your car.

Use the money you saved to get an aluminum driveshaft (if you dont want to spend that get your stock driveshaft rebalanced and get new ujoints) And definatly get the clutch pack kit for your rear end, if your having one wheel peel problems, theres nothing nicer then knowing you have a strong rebuild rear end delivering the power to the wheels.

If you want to start getting into some performance mods, start small, find a junkyard that has a 95-98 5.0 explorer and pull the intake off, for a stock engine that will help open up the intake and get more air, for a stock engine you dont need a heavy duty h/c/i, the explorer intake is made for about 350ish hp, even with a set of afr 185's you wont be making that. Definatly get the subframes. If you want a noticable difference, lower control arms and sub frames would be the best bang for the buck. yes a set of afr185 will make a very noticble difference but for $1300 its better spent elsewhere, espcially when your not getting the full potential out of the heads.

Well i think im done for now, im tired and im rambling, point is their so many possible things you can do with that money, just pick what you really need and start with that, not with what you want.
 

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