Great! More problems!

CManT1914 · Aug 1, 2005

Not big ones though. I got the fuel pressure set, and the idle set (set it to 1000 just to be safe from that damn idle surge) and drove it. Still seemed to be cutting out. It idled GREAT, and revved real nice. So I had my dad drive it around the block, and he came back and said it felt like it had a ton of power, it was just struggling to put it out. He also said the CEL came on, so I pulled the codes and I got these:

113: Intake air charge temperature sensor above maximum voltage / -40* indicated

157: Mass Air Flow sensor fault, low voltage

334: EGR closed valve voltage high

563: High Speed Electro Drive Fan circuit fault

564: Electro Drive Fan circuit fault

The fan codes are because on one of my fan switches the wiring came loose, and it stays on all the time.

mo_dingo · Aug 1, 2005

CManT1914 said:
Not big ones though. I got the fuel pressure set, and the idle set (set it to 1000 just to be safe from that damn idle surge) and drove it. Still seemed to be cutting out. It idled GREAT, and revved real nice. So I had my dad drive it around the block, and he came back and said it felt like it had a ton of power, it was just struggling to put it out. He also said the CEL came on, so I pulled the codes and I got these:

113: Intake air charge temperature sensor above maximum voltage / -40* indicated

157: Mass Air Flow sensor fault, low voltage

334: EGR closed valve voltage high

563: High Speed Electro Drive Fan circuit fault

564: Electro Drive Fan circuit fault

The fan codes are because on one of my fan switches the wiring came loose, and it stays on all the time.

Disconnect the battery for a few minutes, and reconnect and do another test drive.

Check your connections at your MAF, IAT and EGR. Maybe they are not fully seated....
Scott

VibrantRedGT · Aug 1, 2005

113-IAC needs adjusting. Make sure the connector and wires aren't pinched or bound up.

157-Try rotating the meter and setting it in a different postition. Should take care of this one.

334-EGR is shut. It could be faulty. Since the IAC and EGR wires are close to each other make sure they are not all tangled up with each other. Both read high voltage. Make sure the wires and connectors are good.

563, 564-I read in your other post about the fan issues. Buy just the motor for $80 and your problems will be solved. I had the same issues. Just the motor did the trick.

CManT1914 · Aug 1, 2005

VibrantRedGT said:
113-IAC needs adjusting. Make sure the connector and wires aren't pinched or bound up.

157-Try rotating the meter and setting it in a different postition. Should take care of this one.

334-EGR is shut. It could be faulty. Since the IAC and EGR wires are close to each other make sure they are not all tangled up with each other. Both read high voltage. Make sure the wires and connectors are good.

563, 564-I read in your other post about the fan issues. Buy just the motor for $80 and your problems will be solved. I had the same issues. Just the motor did the trick.

Woa woa there. Is the IAC the "intake air temperature" sensor, or the "idle air control" valve??

My stock MAF took a crap on me a while back, and the C&L I have uses the same filament. Maybe that's the problem?

I took my EGR off, I think the plunger might have sprung back open, all I did was tape it half open/closed.

By fan switches I meant my manual fan switches that I have wired inside the cabin. I didn't solder the connections (it was before I had a soldering iron) so I think they came loose.

HISSIN50 · Aug 2, 2005

IAT = ACT = intake air temp sensor = Air charge temp sensor.

Check wiring and make sure the sensor is clean and indexed (you know this. ).
It should be between the meter and TB.

With loose connections on the fan, I would check the external relay and/or fuse in the underhood fuse box (seems to me that there is one of each, though I could be wrong). And check the fan connector to see if it is overdone.

Good luck Chris.

BlackVert · Aug 2, 2005

IAC = Idle Air Control

IAT = Intake Air Temperature

CManT1914 · Aug 2, 2005

BlackVert said:
IAC = Idle Air Control

IAT = Intake Air Temperature

Okay it's my intake air temperature, which is my IAT. Damn sensors are confusing, lol. I pulled it out and put it back in to where the sensor is broadside to the incoming air. Hopefully that will help.

Now I just need a new MAF filament, since I'm pretty sure mine is bad.

I checked my EGR valve, and it's still secured half open/closed. What could be the deal there?

94-302-vert · Aug 2, 2005

I think the EGR relies on all 3 sensors, so just the MAF could be giving you all 3 codes. basically the computer is jsut giving up....

18mustangs · Aug 2, 2005

CManT1914 said:
So I had my dad drive it around the block, and he came back and said it felt like it had a ton of power, it was just struggling to put it out.

Chris, what fuel pump are you running? I didn't see an aftermarket pump in your sig (yellow is difficult to read...hint..hint..). If you haven't put in a 190lph or better with your combo that may be why your car feels like it wants to put out more power than it is. Reagan also said you moved the 1.7s from the intake valves to the exhaust which is a good step. However, you should just run 1.6s on both the intake and exhaust valves as your stage 1 cam is already a split lift\split duration cam that TFS designed with maximum power for your combo in mind; you may be throwing that off a bit. If you were running an alphabet cam or some other single lift cam I'd say go for the 1.7s on the exhaust valves.
Tim

CManT1914 · Aug 2, 2005

18mustangs said:
Chris, what fuel pump are you running? I didn't see an aftermarket pump in your sig (yellow is difficult to read...hint..hint..). If you haven't put in a 190lph or better with your combo that may be why your car feels like it wants to put out more power than it is. Reagan also said you moved the 1.7s from the intake valves to the exhaust which is a good step. However, you should just run 1.6s on both the intake and exhaust valves as your stage 1 cam is already a split lift\split duration cam that TFS designed with maximum power for your combo in mind; you may be throwing that off a bit. If you were running an alphabet cam or some other single lift cam I'd say go for the 1.7s on the exhaust valves.
Tim

I still have the stock fuel pump. I just haven't gotten around to putting in a bigger one. It seems to be getting plenty of fuel though (until I hit it kinda hard) as it smells rich and the plugs are fouled out with fuel (before I set the pressure on my afpr, haven't checked them since).

I have the 1.7's on the intake valves, and the 1.6's on the exhaust valves. I did that after reading an article on how split rockers could produce more power, plus they were dirt cheap.

mustangramair · Aug 2, 2005

Chris, what kind of cam were they doing the tests on? I think Tim was saying alphabet cams have the same lift on both intake and exhaust so they put the 1.7's on the exhuast to make the alphabet cams like the split duration TFS cam you have. Man, you have had almost as many problems as i had when i did all my work. I hope you get your bugs worked out! I just put in my 190lph fuel pump with new fuel filter and my car runs harder.

CManT1914 · Aug 2, 2005

mustangramair said:
Chris, what kind of cam were they doing the tests on? I think Tim was saying alphabet cams have the same lift on both intake and exhaust so they put the 1.7's on the exhuast to make the alphabet cams like the split duration TFS cam you have. Man, you have had almost as many problems as i had when i did all my work. I hope you get your bugs worked out! I just put in my 190lph fuel pump with new fuel filter and my car runs harder.

I don't remember the cam.

Yea I'm slowly working out all the bugs. I'm gonna get a new MAF element tomorrow so I won't have to worry about that. But I still don't know what to do about my smog and EGR codes. I had the plunger pushed halfway down, but they still came on.

HISSIN50 · Aug 3, 2005

Chris, you know I am not the one to ask with the EGR stuff when circumventing it, but since the plunger trick is not working, can you do the resistor trick in the wiring instead?

It would be along the lines of something like this

Good luck Chris!

95WhiteVenom · Aug 3, 2005

Dang chris seems like your getting constant problems like me.
Shroted out headlight and turnsignal fixed that then the alternator took a crap got that fixed and now the clutch has gone ape on me it started with the TOB but now the clutch is fried and its my daily driver that noise is so annoying its driving me crazy.
Well now im betting your glad you got that code reader aren't you. It comes in handy.

CManT1914 · Aug 3, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
Chris, you know I am not the one to ask with the EGR stuff when circumventing it, but since the plunger trick is not working, can you do the resistor trick in the wiring instead?

It would be along the lines of something like this

Good luck Chris!

That looks interesting, but can I go to radio shack and make my own instead of having to buy that one?

WHITE94COBRA · Aug 3, 2005

Hey chris I have a pro m 80mm mas flanged, I need to get rid of it. It has the 96 - 99 connector and plug, I also have the flow sheet and wiring diagram for new connector. I'm thinking the mas is throwing all your censors way off??

CManT1914 · Aug 3, 2005

WHITE94COBRA said:
Hey chris I have a pro m 80mm mas flanged, I need to get rid of it. It has the 96 - 99 connector and plug, I also have the flow sheet and wiring diagram for new connector. I'm thinking the mas is throwing all your censors way off??

Yea no doubt, the C&L uses the factory electronics, and mine is bad. But I put a new element in it yesterday from my friend's 95 GT, and it didn't eliminate the problems. It ran a little better, and I didn't get the MAF code, but it still would bog down under heavy throttle.

94-302-vert · Aug 3, 2005

How long did you give it to learn the new MAF?

Have you done the O2's yet?

CManT1914 · Aug 3, 2005

94-302-vert said:
How long did you give it to learn the new MAF?

Have you done the O2's yet?

I didn't drive it but around the block, and I didn't unplug the battery, not that I think about it, I shoulda done that. But I'm getting a new one today anyway.

The O2's I'm not worried about because they are ignored under WOT, and it doesn't run great under WOT either, so it shouldn't be them. Plus I'm not getting any codes for them.

WHITE94COBRA · Aug 3, 2005

I'm also still using my stock in tank fuel pump, but I also have an external, I added the external a few weeks after putting my h/c/I, I didnt really feel too much of a difference (sotp), but the dyno pull showed a pretty good increase In the upper rpm's.
Also my old mas went south on me, and it felt like someone cut my cars balls off!! You did do new 02's right?
I'm curious as to how you would adjust voltage levels to all the other censors, besides the TPS???????????

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