GT-40 Head/Intake/Cam help

DFG 5OH

Active Member
Aug 28, 2004
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Louisville, KY
I'm looking at some performance options for my stang, and wanna go with the best bang for my buck. I know that AFR, Trickflow, and Edelbrock are good options, but i dont have that kinda money, i've been thinking about GT-40 intake from an explorer, and heads from an explorer, with an e-303 cam. I'd like to port the heads,and intake manifolds, and get 1.6 or 1.7 RR with hardened pushrods. And when i do this, replace all the seals in the motor (126,000 miles) Would this be a good option to go with? or should i save and go with some AFR heads, an Edelbrock intake, and a diff. cam. I'd like to upgrade now, and not save for the "name brand" stuff.

Sorry for such the long thread!!
 
i've been thinking about GT-40 intake from an explorer, and heads from an explorer
You've been thinking well...
with an e-303 cam
Please re-think that. You're compromising driveability and tons of power under the curve for an old, outdated camshaft.
I'd like to port the heads,and intake manifolds, and get 1.6 or 1.7 RR with hardened pushrods. And when i do this, replace all the seals in the motor (126,000 miles) Would this be a good option to go with?
Yes it is.

When you mean "seals" do you just mean valve seals? With the exception of the rear main seal, valve seals should be replaced when using previously used heads, and the front main seal is simply replaced when you install a camshaft.
or should i save and go with some AFR heads, an Edelbrock intake, and a diff. cam. I'd like to upgrade now, and not save for the "name brand" stuff.
I'd prefer the latter option, but it seems like you don't want that. Remember, when it comes to top-ends, you get what you pay for.

Joe
 
I would not port the heads. By the time you spend the extra $$$ on port work and fresh parts to do it right and the cost of the heads you could pretty well have purchased some aftermarket heads. The port work certainly helps make power but it doesn't balance out $ for $.

Also, I'd leave the stock cam in the car for the time being. You'll still make good power and won't have any of the downfalls of the other cams.
 
TMC said:
I would not port the heads. By the time you spend the extra $$$ on port work and fresh parts to do it right and the cost of the heads you could pretty well have purchased some aftermarket heads. The port work certainly helps make power but it doesn't balance out $ for $.

Also, I'd leave the stock cam in the car for the time being. You'll still make good power and won't have any of the downfalls of the other cams.

I agree if you freshin up the heads first then go to port then you will spend alot of money you did not have to.

Look into Thumpers port work, he ports the heads, adds springs, shaves the heads, does a valve job, and replaces the seals. I paid $550 for just a shave,springs,valve job with new seals rebuild, and thumper is preaty close to that with the port work. If you are planning on getting the heads rebuilt (you should as you dont know the condition of the heads when you get them) I would look into thumpers work to kill 2 birds with one stone.
 
Thanks for the replys, i dont wanna make the car run bad, cause its a daily driver. So a cam might be outta the question. And when i said i wanted to replace the seals, i mean i wanna get a gasket/seal kit and replace all the gaskets and seals in my motor.

Any other suggestions? How about an aluminum driveshaft.
 
Aluminum DS wont do nada....you'll spend 2 bills when all is said and done....unless your gonna do gears...wait...no power in the DS..

You have to think carefully here...as mentioned, you'll blow what, 800-900 on those heads by the time you purchase and tune em up?? unless your getting em dirt cheap??? Used Alums can be had for the same money....

I run all stock "warmed" over parts...with some gears, assuming your running stock 273s, you should be mid 13s....

As for the cam and it being a DD....stay stock...cams are sweet for sure, but they can bring a pissy attitude with em...once its in..you own it... :D

Either way its addicting and its never enuf.... :D Good luck choosing...

BTW...no need to apologize...the more info the easier it is to help...dont know why people always say that...???
 
RIO5.0 said:
I run all stock "warmed" over parts...with some gears, assuming your running stock 273s, you should be mid 13s....
How soon until 12's, Andy? I'm pulling for you big time...

Get a sticky tire under it and have a go. I'll ship you my slicks....:D

Joe
 
Joes95GT said:
How soon until 12's, Andy? I'm pulling for you big time...

Get a sticky tire under it and have a go. I'll ship you my slicks....:D

Joe

If the weather holds out Im heading to a T/T session Sunday with Jesse and some others..

I got the 373s in Wed nite..I like em...i always thought they would be to much, not the case....hoping that'll help...gonna do some weigh reduction now since its gonna rain for a few days...Im

hoping the top end numbers are gonna be better this time...
I have only my 18s to run...oh well...I gotta say...the freakin thing hooks like crazy with em...we shall see... :D
 
I know everyone says dont fear the gear, but i do :( I just dont wanna hurt the drivability of the car, although i've heard that it doesnt hurt it. I'd probably do gears also, if money permits.

Would 1.6 or 1.7 RR be better?? I dont know much about the techincal stuff, but i'm trying to learn :D Hopefully soon i'll be answering questions on stangnet myself?
 
matthiasj said:
thanks for the link, i'm not gonna get a cam, mabye 3:73s but i'm just not sure about them...

You say you fear the gear :shrug:

I'm gonna guess you think you'll turn too many rpm's at highway speeds.

Use this link, plug in various ratios, and all of your fears will melt away :nice: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/608.shtml

IMHO, 373's are the least I would choose for a T-5 Stang and many others (me also) who got 373's wish they had put in 410's instead.

Later
Grady