gt-40p worth the work?

fastfords4

New Member
Jul 6, 2007
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So far i have a 1989 gt vert with bbk cai, bbk shorty headers, o/r x to flows (no cats), u/d pullies, hurst short throw, full length SFC's, a/c and smog delete and a strut tower brace. I am now looking for a cheap H/C/I setup. I found a set of gt-40p heads (92,000 miles on them) for $200 locally....a cobra upper and lower for $250 and either want to buy a E-303 or B-303 cam. A FEW questions now....as the title says, if i do all of the work involving a H/C/I swap i want to be happy with the result, i know gt-40p heads aren't aftermarket but still hear good things about them, would it be worth while to go ahead and buy/install them or should i keep saving for afr's,patriot's, eddy's, or tfs's? NEXT question is which cam? im leaning toward the B but really have no clue....as far as goals im just looking to have a nice street cruiser/rare test n tune at the track. No clue what this would put out but 300+ would be really nice! Next would be RR? size? 1.6? 1.7? brand? Once again no clue please teach me!:rolleyes: Anything else anyone thinks i should know? I want to learn!:SNSign: :flag: thanks in advance!
 
Gt40p are good heads but you will have to buy the special headers for them. Also at 94,000 miles you should do a spring upgrade. You can buy new gt40p heads from Tristate Cylinder heads that have upgraded springs , bigger valves and a valve job for $550-600. As for the cam i would rather have a Trick Flow stage 1 over either of the FMS cams. Honestly by the time you get the headers and springs you need for the used P heads your damn near to the price of a set of Aluminum Patriot heads that your headers will work fine on. Just something to think about.
 
The TFS stage 1 is a pretty decent off the shelf cam. It should work well with the GT40P heads also, being a split duration/lift cam. Even though the P heads flow better stock for stock than the standard iron GT40, the exhaust port is their biggest issue. They can definitely benefit from a cam that's got more duration and lift on the exhaust side (.499/.510 lift I/E and 275°/279° duration I/E on the TFS1). You may or may not need the GT40P specific headers, but search around before you commit to anything. I know on a 94-95, you can get away with a regular set of BBK shorties, but I'm not sure with the Fox cars.
 
$200 is a good deal on them.
With that said, keep saving for aluminum heads.
300rwhp without getting into headwork is going to be very unlikely with p's.

I agree with leroy. Rebuilding 100,000 mile heads coupled with the headers is going to put you in aluminum territory.
 
Is the car an auto or a 5-speed? Your plan is solid, but I may consider leaving the stock cam, especially if you have an AOD tranny. Actually, just because of the wieght of a 'vert, I may leave the stock cam in anyway. The heads are sort of up to you. If you can find a deal on some used 'P' headers or BBK's which supposedly work, I'd say go for the GT40P's. A cobra, edelbrock, tf street heat, or explorer intake will work great. You will definitely make a little more power with any of the aluminum head offerings that are out there, but that's kind of up to you. I probably wouldn't touch the cam though either way.
 
If I could do it again I'da saved up for some aluminums, p's are a little faster than stock, and it was a great experience, but not worth it for iron heads.
 
I have a set of box stock Ps and a TFS1 cam in my 93 AOD vert. You can see the mods and times in my sig. Keep in mind that at a MINIMUM you should change the valve springs over. The stock springs do not have a dampner and aren't designed for the higher lift of even a stock HO cam.

That said I am pretty happy with them since the car wasn't designed to be a high HP car just a nice street car.

Also all my times are with the stock converter. With a higher stall converter or a 5 speed the times would be lower.
 
I've got P heads too and I wouldn't expect anything "AMAZING" out of them if I were you.

300 is going to be a heck of a lot easier if you can save up for aluminum heads. (not that it can't be done with stock stuff)

For me, I was anxious to get into some heads. I came across a whole explorer motor for 150 and just went with it. Looking back, saving another couple hundred wouldn't have been that hard. But I couldn't justify the $1000 price tag at that moment. (I probably still couldn't)

Do i regret putting them on? Heck no, i'd probably do it again! its fun to have a project you can build up and see what it'll do.
 
You can get GT40Y heads pretty cheap new....like $700. I would save some money and wait. 94,000 mile heads will likely need to be freshened up and at a minimum you'll need valve springs and special headers. I think that only the relative cost is low. Down the road it will cost you more.
 
I ALMOST bought some iron heads for 200+ a gun on a trade. I am SO happy the other guy backed out, I ended up buying Patriot Heads the next week for a few hundred more and ended up with a much better set of heads!