GT40P heads... good deal?

John Dirks Jr said:

Pull the heads and look at the cylinder bores. I see the crank is gone. Are the pistons out of it too? If so, No way the heads haven’t been off already. Look at the head mating surface and make sure there hasn’t been excessive milling. Also, if he’ll let you, pull some valve springs and check for worn valve guides.

Click to expand...

Crank and pistons are in a box. Yes, I agree heads have been off. Thanks for the tips!

Well I ended up getting it. Block and heads appeared to be in great shape. He had it covered well. He decided to go with a 351 instead so didn't need it. All the cylinder walls still had visible cross hatching and no noticeable ring ridge by feel. Didn't see any cracks or dings on surface mating surfaces. He also didn't end up having the internals/rotating assembly or lifters...but I was OK with that... The only issue I could find was a broken intake bolt in the head. Motor stand is in great shape to

So this will be a budget build... So im trying to go used where possible. Few questions/thoughts if you guys want to weight in.
1: Could I get away with a set of used roller lifters and rockers?
2: Any recommendations on a brand for rotating assembly? Since the rotating assembly is already gone, I was going to move forward with a set of forged internals, including crank. Within the next year or so, I would like to add a on 3 turbo, so the forged crank would be nice in preparation for that.
3: I'm thinking either a b303 or a Trick Flow stage 1 cam. Anyone prefer one over the other for forced induction?
4: go 306 or stay 302? Is it really worth the extra cost in machine work if I go forced induction?
5: if I don't go 306, with the block being in good shape, could I just go with a hone job and clean the block up good myself or should I take it to a machine shop and pay to get it worked over with new freeze plugs and such?

Worth noting that my current motor has a upper and lower explorer intake already so I'll be using that. It also has a e303 cam that I could rob if I really needed to...

Thanks!

90sickfox said:

This is my experienced opinion. If you want to go on3 keep the stroke as short as possible..... Meaning no stroker kit. The reason i say that is because the turbo itself can make way more power than the 302 block can handle.

Now that I've built a turbo 331 i see i should've done things differently.

1. The 302 block normally has issues above 500hp
2. You can run more boost on a arp studded stock block with good internals.

There's no real reason to spend a lot in stroker kits, extra machine work, and balancing. Wish I would've done a 306 with about 11psi.

With that said....if you use a forged crank, good pistons, good rods, have engine tapped for 1/2 arp studs, and get a good port job on heads and intake....you'll have lots of fun.

Ofcoarse, you'll need a bunch more than that....brakes...suspension....chassis....electrical....fuel....etc.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Your thoughts are definitely in line with mine based off my research. Didn't think about the 1/2 ARP studs...good suggestion.

I already went through the suspension (UPR), brakes, parts of the fuel and electrical. I have sub frame connectors but haven't not installed yet.