guys d/s question! im broke this year.

[ADRENLN]

i have no cash this year so not alot going on with the stang.

i want to give it a little bit though. so i was thinking weight reduction as it is the cheapest.

first im going the get a collent flust and have them bleed the system

1. then i will remove the heater core -18lbs

2. then i will remove the condenser - 5

3. im trying to remove the rear seatbetls i hear they are -5 having trouble breaking one if those star bolts loose without air tools. got one by hand but those are really in there.

heres the questions. im going to do a d/s too. aluminum says it weighs 16 lbs. my question is, is that including the u joints and slip yoke???

reason im asking is im cosidering the PST carbon fiber one. says d/s weighs 6 lbs. but the u joints are 3 and the slip yoke is 2.5 for a total of 11.5 lbs.

trying to decide if it is worth the extra cash...not sure of the price i guess ill have to call them. what do you guys think.......and what is the ford aluminum d/s total weight with the extra parts?

 

[Red2000GT]

THe weight of the aluminum d/s is with the yoke and u-joints. Wether or not the carbon fibre one is worth it,well I heard the general rule of thumb is that every 10 pounds of rotating mass is equivalent to 50 pounds of dead weight. So taking 20 pounds off your flywheel/clutch/driveshaft/wheels,is equivalent to removing 100 pounds from the car.

 

[Red2000GT]

Oh and just buy a 3/8 inch breaker bar to loosen those bolts.

 

[QDRHRSE]

Be careful with weight reduction....it should be a last resort. Weight reduction=discomfort. That's all i have to say.

 

[DropTopPony]

The Carbon Fiber shaft is like 550 with the regular yolk/u joint and like 800 for the lightweight yolk/u joint. If cost is an issue i'd just get the aluminum DS its only like 4lbs heavier. BUT 1/5 the cost.

 

[ADRENLN]

thanks guys, yea no way in hell am i paying 800 bills for a d/s.

the $550 is worth a thought because the ford aluminum is not so cheap anymore. its 350 bucks or somthing like that!

we are talking 16 lbs if your saying that includes everything against 11.5. i think that is the weight of the c/f one with regular u joints and slip yoke.

hmmmmm. 4.5 lbs of rotational mass for 200 bills.

if the above poster is correct on his estimates that would mean that 4.5 lbs would be equal to 25 lbs of dead weight.

however i cant be sure he is right so 200 seems a bit steep for that. ill have to go aluminum i think. like i said im broke this year.

i should really just throw all this money toward a built block, but since i have to get some little **** done i figure i will have my guy throw in the d/s while hes at it.

 

[ADRENLN]

btw thanks guys for the thought and my car is not a daily driver so the weight reduction is no big deal.

i also plan to keep it as long as i can. im not a cobra chaser. i bought a gt and now its my job to make it all it can be.

 

[DropTopPony]

I've seen the Ford aluminum DS on ebay new for @220-240

 

[ADRENLN]

ill have to take a look, i could be makin a mistake on that price.

 

[jasonh_86]

This has nothing to do with the driveshaft, but don't forget that crap below the carpet. I've heard that can weigh quite a bit, actually.

 

[ADRENLN]

yea i thought about that, but it seems like a pita. how are you supposed to get that stuff off anyway. a scraper will scrape the crap out of the car.

i dont know if i have enough exposed to count for anything. i just have the trunk and back seat gutted. probably wont add up to too much for me...but who knows.

btw, yea i was off on the price. i founf it for the price you told me thanks. so i will definatly be the ford aluminum. that leaves me cash for somthing else or the built blok fund.

 

[jasonh_86]

Well, for the stuff under the carpet it does take some work but I hear it's worth it.

I'd pull the interior out and rip it all up, then lay the carpet back down and put a couple of really lightweight racing seats in the front

I've got a buddy who races his drag car all the time. '88 GT with a 438 (351 bored .125 over and stroked) and he told me that would be a major weight reduction if I didn't mind the extra road noise.

 

[tomustang]

there's a metal plate under the steering assembly that you can remove, that does nothing

dog bone (mot bar) under the axle assembly

if it's not a DD and you drive less than 5000mi with you make it emissions exempt and go for an offroad pipe, cats weigh

remove the sound deadening materia

take out the center console, just leave the shifter ring there

take out the back seat trim panels (surround the window)

 

[jasonh_86]

there's a metal plate under the steering assembly that you can remove, that does nothing

dog bone (mot bar) under the axle assembly

if it's not a DD and you drive less than 5000mi with you make it emissions exempt and go for an offroad pipe, cats weigh

remove the sound deadening materia

take out the center console, just leave the shifter ring there

take out the back seat trim panels (surround the window)

You read my mind!

 

[tomustang]

Bring a tank of Pennsylvanian air with you, it'll give more hp over jersey air

+1

 

[jasonh_86]

 

[DropTopPony]

+1

hmmm i've heard the radiation in jersey air is good for 3/10 in the 1/4.

 

[ADRENLN]

thanks guys. the mott bar is gone already. however i never heard of this metal plate under the stearing wheel? ill have to look for that.

the console and pannels around the back windows i dont know about.

i dont want people to really think it has too muck weigh reduction. i also dont want it to look crappy as it is a show car also. never know though, ill have to see how it looks.

 

[Kornnut]

the ford aluminum is not so cheap anymore. its 350 bucks or somthing like that!

Its $230ish

 

[tomustang]

Its $230ish

http://eleanor.pro3i.com/showpost.php?p=6048255&postcount=11

btw, yea i was off on the price. i founf it for the price you told me thanks. so i will definatly be the ford aluminum. that leaves me cash for somthing else or the built blok fund.