Guys with Comp Cams Beehive springs INSIDE!

GTJake

Founding Member

Oct 28, 2002

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Ann Arbor, MI

May 30, 2006

#1

• May 30, 2006

• #1

Are these the correct springs for some AFR 165cc heads?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CCA-26120-16&N=115&autoview=sku

Summit Racing said:

Valve Springs, Single, 1.445 in. Outside Diameter, 130 lbs./in. Rate, 1.230 in. Coil Bind Height

Recommended Camshaft Style Roller hydraulic
Installed Height (in) 1.880 in.
Seat Pressure at Installed Height (lbs) 155 lbs.
Open Height (in) 1.280 in.
Open Pressure (lbs) 377 lbs.

Click to expand...

My cam calls for 130-135 on the seat. These have 155, but they seem to be the right diamter for the application. Any input? I don't really know which ones. Also, do I need locks and retainers? Thanks.

Jake

 

S

slocomo

New Member

Mar 19, 2006

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May 30, 2006

#2

• May 30, 2006

• #2

spring pocket?

AFR says on their website that the 165's can be cut to 1.625" sping pocket . no deeper. the springs you are looking at say 1.88" installed height. I would call AFR and ask what the height on the spring pocket is stock. Not after cutting them. It looks like those springs would fit as far as the diameter goes. But, I called comp cams about what beehive springs my edelbrock performer rpm heads take and they mentioned something about spring locators.? I'm guessing that the spring needs a cup type thing for the seat with those beehive springs. I'm not sure. I would call comp cams and summit and AFR That's the only way to find out what the deal is on installing those springs on your heads.

 

S

slocomo

New Member

Mar 19, 2006

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May 30, 2006

#3

• May 30, 2006

• #3

I did a search of 94-95 tech beehive springs.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=496511&highlight=beehive+springs

here is a link with a lot of discussion of afr's and beehive springs.

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

Founding Member

Jan 14, 2001

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New York

May 30, 2006

#4

• May 30, 2006

• #4

Jake, why not get drop in replacements from Ed? You probably use his ps 3 spring kit.

 

GTJake

Founding Member

Oct 28, 2002

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Ann Arbor, MI

May 30, 2006

#5

• May 30, 2006

• #5

Yeah, I'm thinking that sounds like a better idea since there seems to be conflicting opinions about the beehives.

I'm getting a real bad miss above 5k rpms. I think it's the valve springs, but I'm not sure. Any way to actually know besides taking off the valve covers? I was going to try a new fuel filter and clean the air filter and MAF. (I already did a new cap, rotor and plugs).

Jake

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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Jan 14, 2001

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May 30, 2006

#6

• May 30, 2006

• #6

I doubt Ed's springs are the cause of your miss.

What does your datalog show when this miss happens? Try the cheap basics first. Doing springs with the heads still on is a pain in the balls!

 

GTJake

Founding Member

Oct 28, 2002

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Ann Arbor, MI

May 30, 2006

#7

• May 30, 2006

• #7

No, these aren't Eds springs, they are stock "upgraded" AFR springs.

Last summer I powershifted from third into second at the track and smacked all the exhaust valves against the pistons. Took the heads off and got them redone and the guy said he put some shims under the springs to get them up to stock AFR specs.

But the car was pulling good up to 6250rpms when I brought it out this year, but then I made a trip from Minneapolis to Detroit and when I got here the car started the bad miss.

I haven't done a datalog yet of the miss. I need to do that and change the fuel filter and clean the air filter and MAF. I work from 7-3:30 and don't get home until 4:30, so I'm not too motivated in the evening to do anything.

Really? Valve springs while the heads are on are bad? It doesn't seem like it would be, but I've never done it.

Jake

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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May 30, 2006

#8

• May 30, 2006

• #8

I didn't know that. If they turn out bad, buy a kit from Ed.

I did them once with the heads on the car and it was a pain. You need compressed air in each cyl.

Maybe they are the issue but still try the cheap stuff first.

 

GTJake

Founding Member

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Ann Arbor, MI

May 30, 2006

#9

• May 30, 2006

• #9

Yep, I agree...cheap stuff first. Damn I didn't think you needed copmressed air in each cylinder! How did you do that? I guess there's no way I could do that at my tool limited house out in Michigan.

Jake

 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!

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May 30, 2006

#10

• May 30, 2006

• #10

When I did it, my friend helped me and he had a small compressor. We got the proper fitting and screwed it into each cyl when we did those valves. Thats why I said it was a PITA

Now I have my own compressor and some air tools

 

WhiteDevil

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Feb 4, 2003

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San Diego

May 30, 2006

#11

• May 30, 2006

• #11

GTJake said:

Yep, I agree...cheap stuff first. Damn I didn't think you needed copmressed air in each cylinder! How did you do that? I guess there's no way I could do that at my tool limited house out in Michigan.

Jake

Click to expand...

Yeah back when i changed the springs on my E7s you have to put compressed air in the cylinder your working on to keep the valves up when there is no spring holding them up. it is a pain to do them while they are in the car.

 

S

slocomo

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Mar 19, 2006

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May 30, 2006

#12

• May 30, 2006

• #12

My craftsman compression test kit has the fitting used to hook the male end of the air hose to.

 

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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Jun 28, 2001

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Saint Louis, MO

Jun 2, 2006

#13

• Jun 2, 2006

• #13

You can also pull the plug, thread twine/rope into the cyl and bring it up to TDC and the rope holds the valve.

 

mytight95

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

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Dothan,Al

Jun 2, 2006

#14

• Jun 2, 2006

• #14

old school trick right there....




jason