Guys with trunk mounted batteries??'s

Sevan

Founding Member
Dec 4, 2001
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I'm thinking about moving my battery to the trunk. How long of a positive cable would I need? Whats the best way to ground the frame to the motor? Any info you guys have I would appreciate it. I want to make this easy as possible.

Thanks is advance

:nice:
 
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Kit

You know most of the big stang parts companies sell battery box kits...jegs, summit, steeda. You might check those to start with and see if ther's a kit you might like and do it that way. I've seen the plastic boxes and the metal boxes. I've been debating how to do mine also. I've been noticing some real simple trays with a single billet strap across the top that i thought were pretty damn cool. Its kinda cool seeing the new Optima batteries exposed....

just my worthless 2c

later
Joe

:lol:
 
I bought a Taylor relocation kit. It came with both wires, an aluminum box, and all the hardware. It is a really nice kit. Just remember if you want to be NHRA legal you need to have an enclosed box with a tube coming out of the box to vent any fumes out of the inside of the car. The taylor box is fully legal.
 
I built my own, but other than that, I think Summit's got a pretty reasonably priced kit available. I just went to the local Canadian Tire (the Canadian version of Pep Boys) and bought a marine battery box. Voila....NHRA legal.
 
Nice rear strut brace. :nice: You could mount it that way if you wish. Most mount it in the rear pass side corner or over the wheel near the rear shock tower to attempt to counter the drivers weight on the left side of the car, but anyplace over the rear wheels is better than over the nose.
 
I was thinking about putting on the driver side but I always want to be different and when I found that someone put the battery inder their brace I thought that would be an alternative. I have the same rear shock brace minus the battery base, but I'm leaning towards that setup since I'm using an Optima battery and no need to worry about acid spilling.
 
If thats how you want to mount it cool, different but it will work. You still need to buy a kill switch and enough cable to go from your battery to the switch, battery to your ground probably under against the frame, from the switch to your starter solenoid, switch to alternator. Best route is to go to a local welding supply and buy welding cable its much easier to work with and you can buy it by the box in rolls and even by the foot.
If i did it over again i would have just bought a box, switch and then bought welding cable instead of taylors kit, it wasnt enough cable it and it sucks to work with.
 
00 Red SS said:
If i did it over again i would have just bought a box, switch and then bought welding cable instead of taylors kit, it wasnt enough cable it and it sucks to work with.
That's what I did but had a friend make mine. :D
581377_45_full.jpg
 
Nice setup 89sleeper.

I do have the battery kill switch also. I just need to figure out where to mount it. I was thinking through the license plate but when the key is in on the "ON" position the key will not come out only when its on the "OFF" position. I have to find a spot inside now
 
89sleeper, you mounted you kill switch on your license plate? any pics? which kill switch did u use? I picked up the standard one from like Pep Boys or Murray's I cant remember
 
Sevan said:
89sleeper, you mounted you kill switch on your license plate? any pics? which kill switch did u use? I picked up the standard one from like Pep Boys or Murray's I cant remember
Actually it's behind the license plate. The plate is spaced out just enough to clear it. I just take off the plate at the track. I used this one from Summit.
sum-g1432.jpg

I don't have any pictures of it on the car on my computer but I will try to get some up.
 

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