H/C/I combo

How does this sound (Trick flow track heat intake, 165 afr, Steeda #19 cam?


I would go with the afr's 185 but i cant afford to notch my pistons. I ran a 13.5 before the intake was installed so what do you think this combo could do?


Thanks for your time.
 
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Jay can get you a MUCH better combo for a very comparable price. Don't waste money on something you can't use down the road.

Jay will say one of his camshafts, his heads (he makes more money that way) but if you say you want AFR heads he will say 165s, and he loves Eddy intakes so he will say a Performer intake. I've been down this exact road with him. I wouldn't say he will "get you a MUCH better combo".

With that said do it right the first time and notch the ****ing pistons so you can run good heads! It does not cost that much and some people can do it with the motor in the car. Do that and run AFR 185 heads and a RPMII intake. You will make much more power than 165s and a Performer.
 
How does this sound (Trick flow track heat intake, 165 afr, Steeda #19 cam?


I would go with the afr's 185 but i cant afford to notch my pistons. I ran a 13.5 before the intake was installed so what do you think this combo could do?


Thanks for your time.

Sounds like a nice ots combo. A guy on another forum made 293 rwhp and I believe 317rwtq with the same combo except with a cobra intake.
 
:rolleyes: No....you will not lose torque down low. You will gain both torque and horsepower everywhere in the powerband.

If you have larger volume port heads (less port velocity at low revs) and a shorter runner intake (tuned for higher rpm), how can you gain torque at lower rpm?
Even if you change the cam, the likelihood is it's going to be longer duration with higher lift to take advantage of the higher-flowing heads so again, no way can you gain torque at low rpm.
You could minimize low rev torque loss by building a higher static compression ratio into the engine and if you use a higher ratio rear end gear, you'll have more torque multiplication at the wheels.
 
I had the 19 cam in my 94, and it had a nice lope to it. The only thing I didn't like was how the powerband didn't start till around 2500, since the cam is really for superchargers. Gears would have been a quick fix for the "low end loss".

If you are looking for the most power, go with a custom cam. But, if you want a cam with some lope, good idle on the 94-95 CPU's, and pulls like a mutha after 2500, then get the Steeda 19 cam. Good luck.
 
The new AFR 165's are a nice cylinder head.

One of the best deals out there for what you get (lighter valves/springs and FULL CNC head).

A custom camshaft will make or break your combination and there are a few solid options out there.

I went with Ed (carries AFR) and was quite content with what I got for my driveability goals to be met.
 
I know this is kind of late but there are a few things i left out of my car. One its my DD and i know 185's would have rocked but i dont really need all of that power. Just something to take to the track and have fun with and be able to drive home and go to work the next day. I have 3.73's in the rear end and so far the car has been a blast. I have all the other little bolt ons that everyone gets ( Cold air intake T/B Mass air flow sensor under drive P.'s full exhaust from the headers to the tips some fat 315 nitto 555R's and the list goes on. I've been working with All Ford Performance and they have been helping me out with a good DD that some day i can S/C and be happy with. Im not aiming for 11 seconds just somewhere nice in the 12's. I'll make a crazy fox some day but for now 165's steeda's #19 cam and Trickflow track heat intake will do it for this car. Thanks for your input and i will probably be asking for some help with a different build ;p.
 
Some say ... "If you wanna go fast" :shrug:

Some say ... "Yes, more power up top but a loss down low" :shrug:

The original poster uses the words ...

DAILY DRIVER (to my way of thinking ... these two are critical) :Word:

He then goes on to say and futher define .......

1) i dont really need all of that power
Im not aiming for 11 seconds just somewhere nice in the 12's


2) Just something to take to the track and have fun with and be able to drive home and go to work the next day

3) I've been working with All Ford Performance and they have been helping me out with a good DD that some day i can S/C and be happy with

My thoughts would be along these lines :)

With a focus on daily driver

1) high 12's are easily obtained with a very mild h/c/i NA combo

2) lot of fun at the track with same reply as #1

3) You don't go too wild with #1 or #3 won't be suitable for a blower :bang:

Lastly ... D A I L Y _ D R I V E R

You can easily hose up that by going too radical with a simple h/c/i combo
and
Even all the more so ... when you try to throw a blower in the mix :crazy:

We all have ideas about what is best :D

You really got to be careful when you only got O N E car ;)

Let the discussion go on :nice:

Grady
 
Easy to drive, sounds good, and turns some heads...In a good way :rlaugh: I've seen so many combos out there and they all get the car moving way better then stock. Which is all im really after. This combo seems to be right where i'll want to be at and it sounds good. Should be fun and ill post what i think of the combo and my #'s after the tune.
 
The bad thing is with the parts you are talking about, if you get bored with the amount of power you will have (280-300rwhp) which IMO I don't know how someone can't get bored at that power level then you will be stuck as far as N/A power goes. The 165s are fine for boost but if you want all motor you will have to sell the parts and start all over.

With the Steeda cam, 165s, and the TFS intake you are going to have to be a good driver to get the car to run 12's on street tires. You will be about as fast as stock LS1s, Mach 1s, and some bolt on LT1s. Stay away from 03 Cobras, modded LS1s, or any Corvette.

If I were you I would have gone ahead with the 185s.
 
The bad thing is with the parts you are talking about, if you get bored with the amount of power you will have (280-300rwhp) which IMO I don't know how someone can't get bored at that power level then you will be stuck as far as N/A power goes. The 165s are fine for boost but if you want all motor you will have to sell the parts and start all over.

With the Steeda cam, 165s, and the TFS intake you are going to have to be a good driver to get the car to run 12's on street tires. You will be about as fast as stock LS1s, Mach 1s, and some bolt on LT1s. Stay away from 03 Cobras, modded LS1s, or any Corvette.

If I were you I would have gone ahead with the 185s.

All good points :)

but

Seems like he wants to go the track on a regular basis

If that is so ... Why O Why :scratch:

Would anybody keep going over and over :crazy:
and try to accomplish anything with street tires :rlaugh:

high 12 with some sticky tires is not too tall of an order at all :nono:

with that kind of horse power :nice:

Again ... this guy has to drive that S A M E car E V E R Y day :Word:

Grady
 
With sticky tires 12's is very easy. I'd say on DRs not leaving like a bat out of hell the car will run 12.8's to 12.5's depending on driving skills. Slicks and a high rpm clutch dump 12.3-11.90.

With that said I still say this combination will get very boring. I had the same thing (165s, Jay Allen custom cam, and a Performer intake) and within half a year I was so bored I was looking into how much I could get for my heads and what I should get next.

If you already have the 165's then don't worry about it. But if you don't I strongly strongly suggest going with Trickflow TW heads or the 185s. They will hold their value better, make more power, and allow you to grow later if you decide to change cam, intake, or rev the car higher. :shrug: And they cost about the same as the 165s.