H&R Super Sports installed, question in regards to ride quality

Actually the way to correct the 'bouncing' problem is to correct the front suspension from being off center, a Bumpsteer kit will dramaticlly reduce the front from 'bouncing' around from bumps in the road.

MM has a Tie Rod End kit and Steeda has a Bumsteer kit. What you have to do is set the kit from your drop.
 
tomustang said:
Actually the way to correct the 'bouncing' problem is to correct the front suspension from being off center, a Bumpsteer kit will dramaticlly reduce the front from 'bouncing' around from bumps in the road.

MM has a Tie Rod End kit and Steeda has a Bumsteer kit. What you have to do is set the kit from your drop.


Im bumpsteered with a steeda kit and it still bounces slightly
 
tomustang said:
Actually the way to correct the 'bouncing' problem is to correct the front suspension from being off center, a Bumpsteer kit will dramaticlly reduce the front from 'bouncing' around from bumps in the road.

MM has a Tie Rod End kit and Steeda has a Bumsteer kit. What you have to do is set the kit from your drop.

Will the bumpsteer kit do me anything else on top of getting rid of some bounce?
 
Seraphitia102 said:
Will the bumpsteer kit do me anything else on top of getting rid of some bounce?
NO!...

You don't need a bump steer kit.... here's why you don't see one on the MM site.

From MM instructions.

BUMPSTEER

Bumpsteer is the toe setting of a wheel changing as the suspension moves up and down over bumps, or with body roll while cornering.

There is a myth that the tie rod should be kept parallel to the ground to avoid bumpsteer. THIS IS NOT TRUE! What IS required, is that the tie rod be kept parallel to the lower control arm so that as the suspension moves, the arc of the ball joint and the arc of the tie rod end do not cause any steering input to the spindle. As you lower your car, the tie rod end and the lower control arm move together, staying
parallel. If you install offset rack bushings on a stock geometry K-member, you are making the tie rod end
and the lower control arm NOT parallel. You will actually CREATE bumpsteer by installing offset rack bushings on a stock K-member.

Ford engineers have actually done a very good job at designing a low level of bumpsteer for daily driven cars. Specifically, Ford has designed the bumpsteer to toe out the front wheels under bump. This is a roll understeer condition; the outside loaded tire will turn to the outside of a corner as the body rolls. This condition is designed by Ford by positioning the tie rod end slightly low relative to the steering rack.

Increasing caster raises the tie rod end relative to the steering rack. Increasing caster up to half of the
adjustment range with our Caster/Camber Plates will actually HELP bumpsteer and help performance by
reducing roll understeer. If you increase caster beyond half of the adjustment range, the bumpsteer curve will shift toward toe IN under bump, or a roll-oversteer condition. In this case, it is beneficial to raise the rack, but only by about 1/10 of an inch. Offset rack bushings raise the rack far too much. The best solution is to lower the tie rod end using a bumpsteer kit (MMTR-3,-4). See our test results in the July 1993 issue of Super Ford for details.

Competition cars using stock K-member geometry will also benefit from an adjustable tie rod end kit (MMTR-3,- 4). These kits provide an assortment of spacers in .015" increments to best position a rod end at exactly the correct height; thus taking into account suspension geometry tolerances.

Offset rack bushings DO have a purpose and may be beneficial if you have raised your inner control arm pivots using an aftermarket K-member. In this case, raising the rack will help match the geometry of the raised inner control arm pivots. If you do use offset rack bushings, be sure to only use aluminum bushings - polyurethane offset bushings do not work. The urethane has too much “give”, and therefore it is impossible to get the rack mounting bolts tight enough to prevent the bushings from rotating during hard cornering.
 
Jakes said:
NO!...

You don't need a bump steer kit.... here's why you don't see one on the MM site.

From MM instructions.

BUMPSTEER

Bumpsteer is the toe setting of a wheel changing as the suspension moves up and down over bumps, or with body roll while cornering.

There is a myth that the tie rod should be kept parallel to the ground to avoid bumpsteer. THIS IS NOT TRUE! What IS required, is that the tie rod be kept parallel to the lower control arm so that as the suspension moves, the arc of the ball joint and the arc of the tie rod end do not cause any steering input to the spindle. As you lower your car, the tie rod end and the lower control arm move together, staying
parallel. If you install offset rack bushings on a stock geometry K-member, you are making the tie rod end
and the lower control arm NOT parallel. You will actually CREATE bumpsteer by installing offset rack bushings on a stock K-member.

Ford engineers have actually done a very good job at designing a low level of bumpsteer for daily driven cars. Specifically, Ford has designed the bumpsteer to toe out the front wheels under bump. This is a roll understeer condition; the outside loaded tire will turn to the outside of a corner as the body rolls. This condition is designed by Ford by positioning the tie rod end slightly low relative to the steering rack.

Increasing caster raises the tie rod end relative to the steering rack. Increasing caster up to half of the
adjustment range with our Caster/Camber Plates will actually HELP bumpsteer and help performance by
reducing roll understeer. If you increase caster beyond half of the adjustment range, the bumpsteer curve will shift toward toe IN under bump, or a roll-oversteer condition. In this case, it is beneficial to raise the rack, but only by about 1/10 of an inch. Offset rack bushings raise the rack far too much. The best solution is to lower the tie rod end using a bumpsteer kit (MMTR-3,-4). See our test results in the July 1993 issue of Super Ford for details.

Competition cars using stock K-member geometry will also benefit from an adjustable tie rod end kit (MMTR-3,- 4). These kits provide an assortment of spacers in .015" increments to best position a rod end at exactly the correct height; thus taking into account suspension geometry tolerances.

Offset rack bushings DO have a purpose and may be beneficial if you have raised your inner control arm pivots using an aftermarket K-member. In this case, raising the rack will help match the geometry of the raised inner control arm pivots. If you do use offset rack bushings, be sure to only use aluminum bushings - polyurethane offset bushings do not work. The urethane has too much “give”, and therefore it is impossible to get the rack mounting bolts tight enough to prevent the bushings from rotating during hard cornering.

thanks for the info :)
 
I run 40 psi and get great tread life and better gas mileage.
Pressure has nothing to due with handleing, its a flat contact patch and tire compound that makes the car stick

I I watch tread wear and tire temps and add/lower from there.

40 psi works good for now

Lots of newer tires run higher presures today..............
 
Cavallo said:
:rolleyes:

Talking street car here, tread wear & MPG is the rule. Too low pressure causes heat build up also, bad for tire............

You probably run stager on the street...... :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

I'm with Tom on this one, but it also doubles on what you have said. tire pressure does alter the contact patch the ground sees. this is a very large reason people lower the pressure at the dragway. the entire point of pressure is to to create the optimal contact for the driving surface. on those that go for the corners over the straits the pressure will be higher then that of a drag car.

heat is of zero consequence on our tires unless you are running an open track event or REALLY hitting a winding road with all your suspension can handle. reason being that the tires in our size, with regards to the 1-2 out there that should never be made in a size for performance cars, are built for a very high speed rating, higher grip, and high heat. you will never reach those limits on a street drive unless the pressure is obscenely low driving on a baked phoenix highway.

as far as the comment on running stagger sizes, that is for a drag or looks car. more often then not an equal size front and rear is better suited for a car built for curves as you want a zero balanced front to rear give in a corner. pushed beyond the max your car should drift on a flat plane instead of invoking oversteer or understeer.... of course this can be altered with a good suspension alteration to make use of the setup

on a final note, I'll take Toms thoughts when it comes to the handeling department.

Torinalth
 
Bumpsteer is exactly what it sounds like, when your tie rods arent moving in the same arc as the arms causing the steering to be affected by whatever you are driving over when the suspension is cycling, bouncnig has nothing to do with bumpsteer. The result of bumpsteer is your car steering in directions that you arent intending it to go because of steering geometry changes during the suspension cycle. Mustang bumpsteer isnt really that bad at all.. try driving an i beam suspesion ranger with 16" of travel through the desert at 60mph.