Hard starting, hesitation, stalling

95five-oh · Apr 30, 2010

As the title suggests I've been having some problems with my '95 lately. About every third start, it cranks and cranks but doesn't fire. Usually takes about 3 turns of the key before it kicks over, then usually stalls right after. After this it starts and idles. Under load, the engine cuts out almost like the fuel line is being pinched, most noticeable around 1500-2000rpm. Happens for a split second. It has been stalling at low rpm's, especially when left idling for a few moments. When it stalls, no sputtering, just dies as if I had turned off the ignition. This sounds like a sensor failing...any other ideas? Fuel pump/filter? Car has 174k miles. Thanks for any advice.

alleymad95GT · Apr 30, 2010

Assuming you have done all of the other routine things related to making the ignition work properly (plugs, wires, clean the MAF, etc), I think you just wrote a textbook entry that could be titled

"What you car will do when the PIP goes out."

Do you have any codes?

ProKiller · Apr 30, 2010

BlackVert · Apr 30, 2010

i'm not sure i agree 100% with the other 2 ... but it could be the pip ...

a more common symptom of a bad pip is the car suddenly dieing after being completely warmed up and running for a while, at which time it will refuse to start for 15-30 minutes.

breaking up while driving around at part throttle MAY be related to old oxygen sensors, but i'd try the other things first as new O2 sensors are not exactly cheap

is there any noticeable engine shaking?

in any case, i would start by replacing the distributor cap and spark plug wires, cleaning the MAf sensor, and installing a new fuel filter. i'd also put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank.

95five-oh · Apr 30, 2010

Plugs and wires are about 5k old, I ran a can of seafoam through the tank and brake booster about two weeks ago with no change in behavior. I'm gonna clean the MAF and TB tonight or tomorrow morning. I don't have access to a scanner but there's no check engine light showing. The car always cranks back up after a stall, its never taken more than a minute or so. The motor seems to shake when it cuts out at part throttle. PIP? What? Where? How much? Thanks again.

Chythar · Apr 30, 2010

The PIP is also called the stator, it's inside the distributor under the cap. Put simply, it tells the computer when it's time to fire off each cylinder. If the PIP fails, it reports the wrong info to the computer which then can't keep the engine running. You can replace it yourself, but you have to take the bottom gear off of the distributor. That requires a press or careful use of a punch and a brass hammer. Here's a walkthrough on replacing the PIP:

How-To: Rebuild Your Distributor and Replace the Stator

95five-oh · Apr 30, 2010

Thanks for the info. Any idea on how expensive they are? I cleaned the MAF and air filter this evening thoroughly, and the problem remains.

alleymad95GT · Apr 30, 2010

$26.

AutoZone.com | | Pick-Up Coil | PICK-UP COIL

If you prefer Advance...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-BWD_5240786-P_200_R|GRPTUNEAMS_848953205___#

Or NAPA...

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Results.aspx?Ntt=stator&Ntk=Keyword&N=599001+101995+50026+2026026

Don't necessarily know if these are the best one or not, but...its a helluva lot cheaper than a Motorcraft one...

5.0_GT_kid · May 1, 2010

Chythar said:
The PIP is also called the stator, it's inside the distributor under the cap. Put simply, it tells the computer when it's time to fire off each cylinder. If the PIP fails, it reports the wrong info to the computer which then can't keep the engine running. You can replace it yourself, but you have to take the bottom gear off of the distributor. That requires a press or careful use of a punch and a brass hammer. Here's a walkthrough on replacing the PIP:

How-To: Rebuild Your Distributor and Replace the Stator

I thought ours was down by the air box?

Chythar · May 1, 2010

5.0_GT_kid said:
I thought ours was down by the air box?

That's the TFI by the air box. Fox's had them attached to the distributor on the outside. The PIP has always been on the inside of the distributor.

5.0_GT_kid · May 1, 2010

Chythar said:
That's the TFI by the air box. Fox's had them attached to the distributor on the outside. The PIP has always been on the inside of the distributor.

Ahhh, gotcha.

95five-oh · May 1, 2010

Today i attempted to replace the sensor, but I didn't get very far. I was unable to get the distributor out...unscrewed the bolt and the hold-down, wiggled and pulled comprehensively...wouldn't budge and I didn't wanna break it. I'm very inexperienced with timing related issues. Any suggestions? Thanks

toyman · May 2, 2010

95five-oh said:
Today i attempted to replace the sensor, but I didn't get very far. I was unable to get the distributor out...unscrewed the bolt and the hold-down, wiggled and pulled comprehensively...wouldn't budge and I didn't wanna break it. I'm very inexperienced with timing related issues. Any suggestions? Thanks

Use a marker and draw a line on the distributor and engine. This will be your reference line when re-installing. Using a wrench try rotating the dizzy from below the housing. It will come free as there is nothing else holding it in place.

loopy · May 2, 2010

I had the same problem in my 89, i didnt feel like tearing apart my distributor, so I bought a reman distributor from napa for $140 fixed the problem car running mint now.

pumperdriver · May 2, 2010

Just had issues with my PIP, car was shutting down while driving. I just replaced the whole distributor, a lot less time consuming considering you have to pull it out n e way. Why put back old parts? As mentioned in a post above..Dont forget to place a mark on your engine where your connector is on your dist and where your rotor is pointing. This will be a good reference when you re-install your dist. You will have to reset the timing afterwards. Good Luck.

Chythar · May 2, 2010

Remanufactured distributors do not always have a new PIP. The PIP will be tested to make sure it works, but their tests won't check for heat soak or other problems during operation. You can usually tell if the PIP has been replace by looking at the distributor gear. If there are two holes for a pin but only 1 pin, you likely have a new PIP. Most places that rebuild distributors won't bother trying to line up the pin holes in the distributor when reassembling; it's easier to make a new hole.

95five-oh · May 12, 2010

Replaced the Stator this morning and thoroughly cleaned/oiled the parts of the distributor. Result: Overall, car runs better, feels a little more crisp, but...the cutting out under load remains. At high RPMs its fine, only when accelerating at lower RPMs does this problem occur. Fuel issue? I've ran a can of seafoam through the gas tank, but no difference.

STM1965 · May 12, 2010

Seems this is more common then one thinks.....

Hard starting, hesitation, stalling

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