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Harmonic balancer adapter stuck in crank

  • Thread starter Thread starter SmokeytheFox
  • Start date Start date Oct 31, 2021

SmokeytheFox

5 Year Member
Jul 19, 2018
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3
13
Cleveland,Ohio
Oct 31, 2021
#1
  • Oct 31, 2021
  • #1
Hey last night while I was installing my harmonic balancer with the installation tool and made a huge mistake of turning the big nut without holding the main assembly with another wrench. Now the adapter that screw into the crank is stuck tight asf in the crank. I tried using vice grips to turn it free but that was a massive fail. How the hell do i get this adapter out the crank??
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,873
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203
polk county florida
Oct 31, 2021
#2
  • Oct 31, 2021
  • #2
Pics?
 

SmokeytheFox

5 Year Member
Jul 19, 2018
24
3
13
Cleveland,Ohio
Nov 1, 2021
#3
  • Nov 1, 2021
  • #3
General karthief said:
Pics?
Click to expand...
The brown liquid is penetrating oil but that’s the adapter in the center
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
6,945
5,816
213
Nov 1, 2021
#4
  • Nov 1, 2021
  • #4
The balancer isn't a press fit on a 5.0. It should've just slid on with no need for a tool. At most a block of wood and a few taps with a hammer.

You'll need some heat and a Irwin tool set. The heat may damage the crank seal. To fix that the timing cover will have to come off. Try it first with moderate heat from a propane torch.

The other idea that may work is to weld a nut to it and back it out.


 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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#5
  • Nov 1, 2021
  • #5
90sickfox said:
The balancer isn't a press fit on a 5.0. It should've just slid on with no need for a tool. At most a block of wood and a few taps with a hammer.

You'll need some heat and a Irwin tool set. The heat may damage the crank seal. To fix that the timing cover will have to come off. Try it first with moderate heat from a propane torch.

The other idea that may work is to weld a nut to it and back it out.


Click to expand...
I was chastised for installing my HB without an install tool. I was sure it is not a press on item, but that did not matter to the mechanic.
After making sure the balancer felt and sounded seated, I torqued the bolt, test ran it after everything else was reassembled, and checked the torque again. It had not changed, so I ran it down the road. Thanks for the peace of mind, @90sickfox .
@SmokeytheFox to confirm, the piece that’s in there is a tube that’s threaded in the inside and outside? Here is what I would do.
Soak up the rest of the penetrating oil and use carb cleaner to degrease the inside threads. Use the air compressor to blow out the carb cleaner and clean again. Get a grade 5 or better bolt the right size for the threads and use new Red thread locker to keep it in the threads of the insert. The insert should have less grab to the crank than the bolt to the insert at that point. If all is clean and the Loctite is fresh, you will end up with the parts out of the car and stuck together enough to need heat to get them apart. If not, you’ll have dirty threads and will still need to use the tools in the picture, a left hand drill bit and easy out, or welding a nut on.
 
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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
6,945
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213
Nov 1, 2021
#6
  • Nov 1, 2021
  • #6
That piece stuck in there looks like the end of a puller. The piece the threaded part spins inside that looks like a cone. ( I could be wrong ). It would be used for removing the balancer not installing. If using the tool I just described always use the crank bolt threaded in a bit behind it to avoid this.
 
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Potomus Pete

I'm still waiting for the fully nude shots
5 Year Member
Mar 7, 2019
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Sarasota Florida
Nov 1, 2021
#7
  • Nov 1, 2021
  • #7
Next time put it in the oven....The way I learned it on Stangnet
 

SmokeytheFox

5 Year Member
Jul 19, 2018
24
3
13
Cleveland,Ohio
Nov 1, 2021
#8
  • Nov 1, 2021
  • #8
90sickfox said:
That piece stuck in there looks like the end of a puller. The piece the threaded part spins inside that looks like a cone. ( I could be wrong ). It would be used for removing the balancer not installing. If using the tool I just described always use the crank bolt threaded in a bit behind it to avoid this.
Click to expand...
No thats a completely tool. This is the installer which is an adapter that threads into the crank with a giant nut and press. You're suppose to hold the assembly with a wrench while your turning the nut or that adapter is just gonna tighten up in the crank. Makes putting on the balancer extremely easy when i use it correctly. This time I was rushing and fcked myself by not paying attention lol
 
Reactions: Boostedpimp, 7991LXnSHO and 90sickfox

SmokeytheFox

5 Year Member
Jul 19, 2018
24
3
13
Cleveland,Ohio
Nov 1, 2021
#9
  • Nov 1, 2021
  • #9
SmokeytheFox said:
No thats a completely different tool. This is the installer which is an adapter that threads into the crank with a giant nut and press. You're suppose to hold the assembly with a wrench while your turning the nut or that adapter is just gonna tighten up in the crank. Makes putting on the balancer extremely easy when i use it correctly. This time I was rushing and fcked myself by not paying attention lol
Click to expand...
 

SmokeytheFox

5 Year Member
Jul 19, 2018
24
3
13
Cleveland,Ohio
Nov 1, 2021
#10
  • Nov 1, 2021
  • #10
7991LXnSHO said:
I was chastised for installing my HB without an install tool. I was sure it is not a press on item, but that did not matter to the mechanic.
After making sure the balancer felt and sounded seated, I torqued the bolt, test ran it after everything else was reassembled, and checked the torque again. It had not changed, so I ran it down the road. Thanks for the peace of mind, @90sickfox .
@SmokeytheFox to confirm, the piece that’s in there is a tube that’s threaded in the inside and outside? Here is what I would do.
Soak up the rest of the penetrating oil and use carb cleaner to degrease the inside threads. Use the air compressor to blow out the carb cleaner and clean again. Get a grade 5 or better bolt the right size for the threads and use new Red thread locker to keep it in the threads of the insert. The insert should have less grab to the crank than the bolt to the insert at that point. If all is clean and the Loctite is fresh, you will end up with the parts out of the car and stuck together enough to need heat to get them apart. If not, you’ll have dirty threads and will still need to use the tools in the picture, a left hand drill bit and easy out, or welding a nut on.
Click to expand...
the proper size bolt extractor can't get a grip since theres no ridges on the sides of the adapter. I'll try the bolt and loctite method in the morning. Im nervous tho, it'd be just my luck to have the bolt snap.
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
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#11
  • Nov 2, 2021
  • #11
SmokeytheFox said:
the proper size bolt extractor can't get a grip since theres no ridges on the sides of the adapter. I'll try the bolt and loctite method in the morning. Im nervous tho, it'd be just my luck to have the bolt snap.
Click to expand...
That’s why I suggest a grade 5 bolt. It’s hardened, but not so much that it will be difficult to drill out if you break it. A grade 8 will be fine if you have LH carbide bits from McMaster Carr.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
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Roy, Utah
Nov 6, 2021
#12
  • Nov 6, 2021
  • #12
Long before anyone ever made an install tool for a damper
People like me were hammering them on
I still do most of the time
An expensive brass hammer is your friend
A cheap HF brass hammer is friendly too
Should be able to get the tool part out of the crank with a pilot bearing puller?
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
5 Year Member
May 15, 2018
1,530
871
133
Savannah
Nov 8, 2021
#13
  • Nov 8, 2021
  • #13
90sickfox said:
The balancer isn't a press fit on a 5.0. It should've just slid on with no need for a tool. At most a block of wood and a few taps with a hammer.

You'll need some heat and a Irwin tool set. The heat may damage the crank seal. To fix that the timing cover will have to come off. Try it first with moderate heat from a propane torch.

The other idea that may work is to weld a nut to it and back it out.


Click to expand...
Every balancer on a 5.0 I’ve done has been an interference fit.


Is the adaptor broken off in the crank?

Never mind, just saw the picture of the tool you’re using, looks different than the one I have. If all else fails, see if you can weld a nut on the end a turn it out.
 
M

Monkeybutt2000

Mustang Master
Aug 11, 2019
1,387
849
133
Lafayette,IN
Nov 8, 2021
#14
  • Nov 8, 2021
  • #14
96pushrod said:
Every balancer on a 5.0 I’ve done has been an interference fit.


Is the adaptor broken off in the crank?

Never mind, just saw the picture of the tool you’re using, looks different than the one I have. If all else fails, see if you can weld a nut on the end a turn it out.
Click to expand...
Gonna agree here,I've never been able to just slide on a balancer. The balancer I have on my current engine had to be honed to fit the crank.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
2,531
713
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Roy, Utah
Nov 8, 2021
#15
  • Nov 8, 2021
  • #15
You may end up having to drill the threaded adapter / insert out
I would spare no expense buying a series of left hand drill bits
I buy left hand bits regularly
It is not easy to find the big ones
The crank thread is 5/8-18
Do not drill more than 9/16 maybe 14mm and then pic the remains out
If you are lucky the insert will come screwing out with the 1/2 left hand bit
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
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Nov 8, 2021
#16
  • Nov 8, 2021
  • #16
+1 on the SBF interference fit balancer. I’ve never had a Ford engine that the balancer “slid on”
Well,…wait a minute…They all actually “slid on”.
As long as you beat them with a hammer.
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 29, 1999
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Nov 8, 2021
#17
  • Nov 8, 2021
  • #17
CarMichael Angelo said:
+1 on the SBF interference fit balancer. I’ve never had a Ford engine that the balancer “slid on”
Well,…wait a minute…They all actually “slid on”.
As long as you beat them with a hammer.
Click to expand...
Me neither and I have had them off plenty of times . I never beat the front of my crankshaft with a hammer either that’s sort of weird to me . Literally used the same bolt that holds the balancer on and a half Inch rachet and nice and easy Everytime the balancer slowly goes on with no drama.

Only exceptions would be like an ati or something like that .
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
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Birmingham, al
Nov 8, 2021
#18
  • Nov 8, 2021
  • #18
even the current engine has a friction fit balancer.
Topped off with a required 275ft/lb bolt torque to hold that bitch on.
 
Reactions: TOOLOW91

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,222
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224
Massachusetts
Nov 10, 2021
#19
  • Nov 10, 2021
  • #19
TOOLOW91 said:
Me neither and I have had them off plenty of times . I never beat the front of my crankshaft with a hammer either that’s sort of weird to me . Literally used the same bolt that holds the balancer on and a half Inch rachet and nice and easy Everytime the balancer slowly goes on with no drama.

Only exceptions would be like an ati or something like that .
Click to expand...

That’s how I’ve always installed them. Seems easy enough to rachet them in, back it off, and then torque to spec
 

ChaseRoads

do I need to lube this area?
Oct 29, 2020
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midwestern america
Nov 11, 2021
#20
  • Nov 11, 2021
  • #20
easiest is gonna be weld a nut on it . live and learn.
 
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