Harmonic balancer installer

[dbfarr]

I took the crankshaft bolt down to the local Ace hardware. It cost me 5.71$ to put this together.

I should be able to press on my new dampener without the use of a hammer or block of wood. Sure beats 66.95 at Summit.

I used grade 8 to make sure the thread didn't give way, not likely, but I figured the extra 50 cents is worth the trouble. I won't use the nut, but it helps for storage.

compare to

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO-66514&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Yes I know, it installs too. But I got that one for 10$ at Harbor Frieght, I am sure I'll use both 3 or 4 times at most.

 

[D.Hearne]

Why would you ever have to use a hammer and wood to install it. The factory bolt is all that's needed to do that.

 

[DJCarbine]

I second D. Hearne. I put the balancer on, threaded the bolt and drew the balancer onto the crank. How does that thing you made work btw

 

[dennis112]

I took the crankshaft bolt down to the local Ace hardware. It cost me 5.71$ to put this together.

I should be able to press on my new dampener without the use of a hammer or block of wood. Sure beats 66.95 at Summit.

I used grade 8 to make sure the thread didn't give way, not likely, but I figured the extra 50 cents is worth the trouble. I won't use the nut, but it helps for storage.

compare to

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO-66514&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Yes I know, it installs too. But I got that one for 10$ at Harbor Frieght, I am sure I'll use both 3 or 4 times at most.

I don't understand how your installer works. Looks like you are replacing one bolt with another. This not how a proper installer works. Correct me if I am wrong with my assumption.

Lots of cranks are installed using the factory bolt, although this is not the best way. It is no fun to have damaged threads in the snout of the crank. :-(

A correct installer is basically a stud that is threaded on both ends. The stud is first screwed into the crank, the balancer is slid over it and put into place by the key, a large washer is put on the stud next, and then a nut screwed on.

Turning the nut presses the balancer onto the crank. Much less risk of crank thread damage will result because the stud and nut combination are doing the actual work.

 

[dbfarr]

Its just a little longer than the original bolt

If your balancer will not slide on far enough for the bolt to engage, or you want more threads before you start pulling, removing washers allows you to adjust the length of the shaft. This way you can ensure that you have several threads before you start pulling.

The tool would have to be uninstalled and reinstalled a few times depending on how far you initially install the tool. It may be a little time consuming, but it does offer more control over how much thread inside the crank you are pulling on.

Yes, a shaft and a nut would have been better, but no one in town has such a thing in this diameter and thread.

The key here is if your in a bind and need to get the car back together, this will work. It is not perfect, but it has the advantage of allowing you to seat the bolt a bit further than the retaining bolt.

 

[Max Power]

Makes sense, but I have never had that problem.

 

[mustangman1974]

I got a piece of threaded rod for a aircraft parts store and just used a nut an big frigen washed. but I bet that bolt an washer was cheaper good JOB!

 

[mikemustang289]

I put mine in the oven for about 15 mins and it will slide pretty much all the way on, the bolt pulls it in the rest of the way.