Harmonic balancer tool stripped threads

tootall95

New Member
Jun 19, 2020
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Bryant AL
Hi all, in a bit of a pickle . In the process of trying to install a March harmonic balancer on my 2000 mustang gt, I somehow managed to damage a few of the threads in the crankshaft. The balancer was EXTREMELY hard to get on even using a puller tool and heating in the oven, and I guess I didn't have the puller tool threaded all the way in at one point and it snapped out. I had the balancer about 3/4 way on (it's off now). Im not sure I feel comfortable re-tapping threads, should I just have it towed to a shop??? What are my options? It looks like it was just the first couple of threads that were stripped out
 

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Hi all, in a bit of a pickle . In the process of trying to install a March harmonic balancer on my 2000 mustang gt, I somehow managed to damage a few of the threads in the crankshaft. The balancer was EXTREMELY hard to get on even using a puller tool and heating in the oven, and I guess I didn't have the puller tool threaded all the way in at one point and it snapped out. I had the balancer about 3/4 way on (it's off now). Im not sure I feel comfortable re-tapping threads, should I just have it towed to a shop??? What are my options? It looks like it was just the first couple of threads that were stripped out
If you don't feel comfortable doing it, don't. Screwing up, even a little bit, will leave you needing a new crankshaft.

As it is, the crank could be okay with a simple thread tap run in-and-out, but if not, it'll need to be drilled and heli-coiled, and on a crankshaft, it's delicate work, I've done it once, on a Chevy 400.
 
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If you don't feel comfortable doing it, don't. Screwing up, even a little bit, will leave you needing a new crankshaft.

As it is, the crank could be okay with a simple thread tap run in-and-out, but if not, it'll need to be drilled and heli-coiled, and on a crankshaft, it's delicate work, I've done it once, on a Chevy 400.
Ok, thanks for the reply. There's no way I could still get the bolt started and torque it down?I guess I'll have it towed to a shop ugh. Any reason why the balancer would be so difficult to get on? I made sure the crankshaft and it were lubed up well and put it in the oven for 20 mins at 250. Are March dampeners just known for that?
 
Ok, thanks for the reply. There's no way I could still get the bolt started and torque it down?I guess I'll have it towed to a shop ugh. Any reason why the balancer would be so difficult to get on? I made sure the crankshaft and it were lubed up well and put it in the oven for 20 mins at 250. Are March dampeners just known for that?
I've never used a March dampener.

If the bolt will still start and thread in without any extra effort, and you still have the vast majority of the threads in the crank, you might get away with using blue threadlocker on it and torquing it to spec. You'll have to be the judge of that. Just remember that if a balancer flies off the end of the crankshaft, it damages other things when it does so.
 
So I feel you... I just installed my march dampner and had to get creative with my tool.
If you hurt the first few threads most parts stores will have an M12x1.5 tap, make sure you tip it in grease so that any debris sticks to it.

As for installing the march, I added an O2 sensor socket to fill in the distance where the washer disappears into the march damper. This tool was wide enough to pass over the large installer tool and small enough to fit inside the march damper. Worked really well, and I thought I had damaged my crank first few threads at first as well.

I used this as a "washer"...
TOOL

Make sure you fill half the keyway with RTV, and I installed mine when the engine was warm and the march cool to the touch and, while it wasn't a good idea, it did go on slowly and with a reasonable amount of torque but nothing that concerned me. Use a new bolt once fully seated and follow the instructions: 60 ft lbs, loosen one turn, 30 ft lbs tight then 90 degree turn.