The picture in the first post is of a MacPherson strut type IFS. There is no upper control arm, the strut locates the upper point of the suspension. Go back and look, it says AJE on the stabilizer bar.
the AJE system but the CPP system is not, it converts the lower control arm and strut rod combo to a true A-arm lower and still utilizes the stock or stock style upper control arms. read the entire thread before you start commenting, this thread has not been active for several months until today and the only posts today are referring to the CPP system
I guess it comes down to what your intentions are.
A hardcore, turning corner, road course car may not.
A hardcore, strip/street car however...
The picture in the first post is of a MacPherson strut type IFS. There is no upper control arm, the strut locates the upper point of the suspension. Go back and look, it says AJE on the stabilizer bar.
Her's a scan of the CPP suspension for the Mustang. View attachment 365283
Any time you want to put a MacPherson strut IFS, front engine car aganist a C-5 Vette....just let me know. I'll be glad to show you the tail lights disappearing down the road.
First post to thread: 4:19 p.m. PDT. First Chevy-rules-Stangs-suck post: 5:03. Now that didn't take long.And as far as out-performing the other guys on the block..why does a 93-2002 Z/28 beat the hell out of ANY late model mac front Mustang in the corners. BTDT.
And you know these other guys were cornering on public roads at 10/10ths how? What I'm saying is that an impromptu dice on public roads between drivers of unknown skills, intent, and risk aversion is not a good test of the capabilities of any particular suspension system. Bench racing is fun, but wouldn't it make more sense to ask how do the RRS systems or other strut systems perform in competition, in comparison to a Global West or TCP system? Does anyone have that kind of knowledge?My STOCK f-41 Z/28 would out corner any front engine MacPherson strut car I ever run aganist. Including 06 330-I BMW's and 'M' Z-3's. Right across Paris Mtn. and down the Blue-Ridge Parkway. They NEVER pulled me in the corners.
Excellent points, and no, nobody really does have that knowledge. That's why these discussions/arguments/pissing contests are pretty much always pointless and bogus. A tiny percentage of people on here ever see 10/10ths, or even 8/10ths in their cars yet everyone spends countless hours arguing about optimal camber curves, potential suspension binding, etc., all of which exclusively matter in situations they'll likely never experience.And you know these other guys were cornering on public roads at 10/10ths how? What I'm saying is that an impromptu dice on public roads between drivers of unknown skills, intent, and risk aversion is not a good test of the capabilities of any particular suspension system. Bench racing is fun, but wouldn't it make more sense to ask how do the RRS systems or other strut systems perform in competition, in comparison to a Global West or TCP system? Does anyone have that kind of knowledge?
Excellent points, and no, nobody really does have that knowledge. That's why these discussions/arguments/pissing contests are pretty much always pointless and bogus. A tiny percentage of people on here ever see 10/10ths, or even 8/10ths in their cars yet everyone spends countless hours arguing about optimal camber curves, potential suspension binding, etc., all of which exclusively matter in situations they'll likely never experience.
99% of people just need a system that handles well in "spirited" driving and emergency situations without riding like an oxcart. This can be achieved wonderfully with modified stock suspension, a good MII setup, MacPherson struts done right, and myriad other variations on the theme. Choose a system that suits as many of your needs and tastes as possible while remaining within your budget and go drive. You'll be out enjoying your car while everyone else is at home on their computer debating heim joints and bushing durometers.
I just turned 35 a few days ago but I swear some of you people make me feel like a cranky old man sometimes.
750's up front, and gas adjusts up front ?!?!?! THere will be no loosing up. Your suspension = fillings falling out !!
My opinion: tire aspect ratio is the single most important factor in ride harshness. Second is the shock absorber. Third is spring rate. Another factor is chassis stiffness. If your shocks or springs don't flex, but your chassis does, it feels the same to the butt dyno.
i'll drive it like this for a while and see how it does, i may end up switching to GR-2's up front because the gas adjusts are a bit stiff, but overall i'm not at all unhappy with the ride, especially up front.
Excellent points, and no, nobody really does have that knowledge. That's why these discussions/arguments/pissing contests are pretty much always pointless and bogus. A tiny percentage of people on here ever see 10/10ths, or even 8/10ths in their cars yet everyone spends countless hours arguing about optimal camber curves, potential suspension binding, etc., all of which exclusively matter in situations they'll likely never experience.
99% of people just need a system that handles well in "spirited" driving and emergency situations without riding like an oxcart. This can be achieved wonderfully with modified stock suspension, a good MII setup, MacPherson struts done right, and myriad other variations on the theme. Choose a system that suits as many of your needs and tastes as possible while remaining within your budget and go drive. You'll be out enjoying your car while everyone else is at home on their computer debating heim joints and bushing durometers.
I just turned 35 a few days ago but I swear some of you people make me feel like a cranky old man sometimes.
That's a poor experiment. There are so many other variables that you can't draw the conclusion you're drawing. It's just as valid to say one of them DRIVES better because it's a certain color.You are correct about 99% of the people. I'm the other 1% who want a car that does not drive like a damn 3 wheel atv, which BTW most MacPherson strut cars do a very good job of imitating.
Do this....go to your local Saturn dealer and drive one then go directly to your Honda dealer and drive an Accord. Or better yet....go drive a BMW 330I and then go drive a Honda S2000 and tell me which one DRIVES better. Both are front engine rear wheel drive with about 50-50 weight distribution. The major difference is the front suspension Honda....unequal length upper/lower arms. BMW...MacPherson strut.
YOU decide....I already have.
Ah ok. I had a 289 with stock springs and gas adjust and hated it. But some people couldn't drive my car without a sway bar. Plus I just don't think my fillings were done that great to begin with.
I sent CPP an email. Danny at CPP replied right away to me. He stated that they have not put up a link on their website yet for the mustang kit.
He is going to mail me literature on the set up and cost structure.
The one thing that no one has mentioned or commented on is the removal of the strut rods.
What are the pro's and cons of doing this? Both sides please as i am not mechanically knowledgeable.
To me this kit looks like a good way to beef up the suspension with solid parts. along with some roller perches from Opentracker and some good shocks and springs i think my car would handle nice.
feedback please! and Thanks
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