having problems with driveability codes p0351,p0352,p0353,p0354

First. Are you absolutely POSITIVE that the spark plug wires have been wired correctly? Use all factory stand offs looms.

More information:

V8 coil pack diagram

When you are certain of the spark plug routing, recommend focusing on what cylinders 1,2,3,and 4 have in common. How about:

• The all are on the right side of the motor.
• They share the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor.
• Fuel injectors share a VPWR line.
• They share CAM timing. IE if the cam has skipped time, it would affect the entire bank. Tell us about any other work done. Could be helpful to perform a compression test to determine base motor health.

If this were my car I would use a mechanics stethoscope to "listen" to each fuel injector for the mechanical sound of each fuel injector. If a fuel injector problem is suspected I have had great luck with an injector cleaning and flow test service such as InjectorRX.com. Once cleaned and tested they are as good as new (but cheaper).

Recommend to use an ODB2 scanner to look to see IF both O2 sensors are switching. Here's some information on an affordable Windows based unit.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB

Post the long term fuel trim (LTFT) values for bank 1 and bank 2 at idle and at 2000 RPM's with the motor at full operating temperature.

whitehurst1 said:

i had not thought that they would cause the pcm to throw a code for the coils

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I think there may be a mis-understanding. A P300x DTC code means a misfire on the specific cylinder. There are multiple possible causes for a misfire. This is not limited to an ignition problem. Basically anything that could cause a misfire could cause a misfire DTC.

Think FAST.
Fuel
Air
Spark
Timing.

If any one of the above is missing (or not in the correct amount), will cause a misfire.

Your are right. My bad.

Any time a DCT calls out a "circuit malfunction" that means there's something soooooooo wrong with the circuit that the PCM is unable to perform any diagnosis. Think. Open, short, ground, break, totally broken device.

Begin by confirming key on power at each coil pack. Use a test light that will "load" the circuit. not a bad idea to also confirm key on power at the fuel injectors. Again a test light is your friend.

Next disconnect the primary electrical connector at the coil pack. From the body electrical connector use the test light as a "noid" tester to confirm a pulse on each of the (4) coil pack circuits while test cranking. Do this for both coil packs. What to do next depends upon the test results.

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whitehurst1 said:

i dnt think it could be a timing chain issue becouse ecm is giving me a circuit code for the entire right bank im losing my mind

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Always post the full DTC codes for help. There are 1,000's and they each have a story to tell. Don't make us guess when we are trying to help. But if it's the same list, What have you done to work through the original list? It HAS to be wiring related.

AND it's not the entire right side. For a coil pack system the primary circuits are numbered 1-4 which is basically all of them in a coil pack system.

In my experience when there's usually physical damage to account for a wiring problem. A through visual is your friend. Next a test light and a "wiggle test" to see if there are any drop outs.

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• Open or short in Ignition START/RUN circuit
• Open coil driver circuit in harness
• Coil driver circuit shorted to ground
• Damaged coil
• Damaged PCM
• Coil driver circuit shorted to PWR