HCI complete Car wont idle?

The computers in our cars are very finicky when it comes to cam swaps. They need the vacuum at idle that most aftermarket cams do not provide enough of.

112 is pretty low for our cars, 113-114 usually is the threshold. I had a 113 lsa cam before and had no idle issues, but i had a turbo then as well, which i think the positive manifold pressure (even that very little) made the car idle fine.

I had a B cam before, (110 lsa) at first it seemed fine. Within 2 days i had serious idle/surging issues.

The only real fix, once youve verified no vac leaks, is to get a chip burnt or get a tuner. For me, it was just setting the idle via my twEECer that made my car idle like a champ with the b cam...

Good luck!
 
yellow1995Cobra said:
The only real fix, once youve verified no vac leaks, is to get a chip burnt or get a tuner. For me, it was just setting the idle via my twEECer that made my car idle like a champ with the b cam...

Wrong.

I have a very similar combo as you and guess what? My car didn't want to idle at first either. Everyone was shouting "You NEED a tune...get a chip or a TwEECer etc..."

Well...4 months later it idles great, doesn't die, and has great driveability manners. Did I get a tune or a chip? Nope. 100% stock EEC.

Maybe my car is a freak and what worked for me won't work for you, but this is what I did:

1) Let the computer learn the new modifications. This will entail you driving the car around a lot. Both in stop and go and highway driving. Have electrical loads on and off during etc... If it wants to die, keep your foot on the gas.
2) TURN UP THE IDLE!!! I have mine at about 900rpm...this IS a necessity if you don't want to go the tune or chip route.
3) Play with fuel pressure and timing to see where it likes to be.
4) Do steps 1 through 3 with the car WARM...no matter what, it will run like crap Cold...just wait til it warms up and it should be fine. ANd guess what...by driving it, it will warm up faster.

If you are still having issues...then it might not be the computer, but somethign else such as vacuum leak etc...

I'm sure you are losing some performance by not having an "optimum" tune, but you can see my results: 304hp/331tq and putting some real strong numbers up at the track (12's @ 108mph+).

BTW...my cam is more aggressive than yours with a lower LSA ;)
 
94DreamGT said:
Wrong.

I have a very similar combo as you and guess what? My car didn't want to idle at first either. Everyone was shouting "You NEED a tune...get a chip or a TwEECer etc..."

Well...4 months later it idles great, doesn't die, and has great driveability manners. Did I get a tune or a chip? Nope. 100% stock EEC.

Maybe my car is a freak and what worked for me won't work for you, but this is what I did:

1) Let the computer learn the new modifications. This will entail you driving the car around a lot. Both in stop and go and highway driving. Have electrical loads on and off during etc... If it wants to die, keep your foot on the gas.
2) TURN UP THE IDLE!!! I have mine at about 900rpm...this IS a necessity if you don't want to go the tune or chip route.
3) Play with fuel pressure and timing to see where it likes to be.
4) Do steps 1 through 3 with the car WARM...no matter what, it will run like crap Cold...just wait til it warms up and it should be fine. ANd guess what...by driving it, it will warm up faster.

If you are still having issues...then it might not be the computer, but somethign else such as vacuum leak etc...

I'm sure you are losing some performance by not having an "optimum" tune, but you can see my results: 304hp/331tq and putting some real strong numbers up at the track (12's @ 108mph+).

BTW...my cam is more aggressive than yours with a lower LSA ;)


Well first off, the adjusting the idle deal via the screw on the tbody wont last forever. Give it some time, you will get a tuner or chip, i gurantee it. If you want to talk numbers, i went 109.99mph with gt40x heads and b cam LOL, thats with a car that idled via a tweecer.