HCI Install... a couple Qs

N

nightrider50

Member
Aug 28, 2003
186
0
17
California
#1
Im working on installing my trick flow kit. on the roller rockers there is the bolt that goes over top of the rocker. the directions say tighten the bolt to "zero lash" then turn it 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn more. what is zero lash?
Also im wondering what type of oil i should be running. i used 20-50 before. do the new heads cam intake require different oil?
And last question is what timing do u guys think i should change to. its at 10 right now but when i put the distributor back on i dont know what i should bump the timing to?
thanx
 
#2
Trick Flow...

Hello there ! Good Luck with your TF Kit !

..Zero lash- tighten it carefully by hand until you could
not rotate the push rod with your two fingers. Check that the lifters does not compress at all ! When you do the next in the timing order, wait for a couple of minutes before starting the adjustment. After turning the 1/2-3/4 adjustment, Remember to tighten the locking screw well!!
Lube the rockers, and the valvetrain with motor oil, springs and everything..
.. Use Mineral oil, 20/50, after your rebuild. Remember to change the oil and filter, after the cam brake in. When you do the first start ,brake in, keep the engine running between 2000- 3000rpms (so that the oilpump works well)20-30 minutes.NO WROOM, WROOM !! ..and read the instructions...
.. My set up works fine with timing set between 14-17dgr.

Take care, and drive carefully for 2-3 hours. :)
 
#3
Installing this kit has been a pain in the ass for my sn95. They really should list will fit sn95's with minor modifications, or else tell us we will need a intake spacer just to get the intake not to hit the valve cover. Oh ya don't forget to buy an oil fill kit and do not put your stock plugs back in. Autolite 3924s are longer than the stock ones i have been using. Mine will be running friday HOPEFULLY.
 
#5
When you feel a slight resistance when twisting the pushrod you are at zero lash...turn the "bolt" 1/2-3/4 turn and then snug the lockers down real tight...

I use 10w-30 oil in my car...142k miles on it...

Install the distributor with the rotor pointed towards the #1 terminal on the distributor...but before installing align the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to 0* (AND MAKE SURE IT IS ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE...to do this have a buddy bump the engine over until you feel your finger being blown off the #1 spark plug hole (passenger side)...and have him stop you should be in the neighborhood of aligning the 0* on the balancer...then just crank it over with a break over bar to line up the marks...and drop in the distributor...the rotor should point somewhere around 11 o'clock (in reference to a clock) and you should be at 10* timing...now the car might not start with just that little of timing but just turn the distributor a little bit at a time until the car starts (this is assuming nothing else would cause you to have hard starting problems)

I recently got finished with my FTI H/C/I swap...so I know where your coming from...

David
 
#8
Did you rotate the engine so that the valve was closed when you were installing each rocker? The procedure described above is correct - but you must rotate the engine so the rocker you're installing has its valve in the closed position (lifters on the base circle of the cam, not on a lobe). Zero lash is simply the point where there's no longer any measurable gap between the rocker and the valve tip or between the rocker and the pushrod. You simply tighten the rocker with one hand, while rocking the rocker with the other until there's no gap to 'rock' anymore. All the stuff about twisting the pushrod is un-necessary.

There's no break-in procedure for a roller cam -- the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm stuff is for a flat tappet cam/lifters. You should definitely change the oil before you fire it as some amount of coolant almost always gets in the oil during a manifold/head swap, and you don't want to run the motor that way. Leave the old filter on - run it through a few heat cycles then put fresh oil/filter on it.
 
#11
Next Problem:
in the back of the upper intake manifold there is 2 screw in bolts. one is plugged off and the other one is a black screw in thing with 3 connections coming out of it. the big connection goes to a hose on the driver's side harness marked "S", (next to the "A/C" and other lines). one of the smaller connections goes to the fuel pressure regulator. then there is one more connection from the back of the upper intake... i cant find anything that is supposed to go onto it! i think it is all vacuum stuff.

I noticed that there is one vacuum line coming from a vacuum box thing mounted by the passengers side camber plate with a loose tube coming off of it. that could possibly go on the upper intake manifold??? or does it go onto the black box to the left of the "S" "A/C" harness?

sorry for all the bad descriptions. this is my first time doing any engine stuff like this, (im only 17). any help would be great... thanx guys
 
#12
1000 ways to say it..

Michael Yount said:
You simply tighten the rocker with one hand, while rocking the rocker with the other until there's no gap to 'rock' anymore. All the stuff about twisting the pushrod is un-necessary.
[...Know that you knows alot.., but this is the same as Me and 5spdGT ment..??? ..You just do the same thing..?
When you turn it, you will also remove any oilfilm thats laying on the lifter, or on the top of the push rod. and by the way, its not alot of work twisting the pushrod. How exactly can you bee working with this non finemecanic issues? Less than One teenth of a turn, maybe, between your method, and the twisting method.. just me.
There's no break-in procedure for a roller cam -- the 20 minutes at 2000 rpm stuff is for a flat tappet cam/lifters. .
Click to expand...
... OK, but waths wrong doing this ? You can check for leaks, strange noises, anything else, and you could stop the engine in the garage whatever, if somethings wrong...
You dont have to push it back to your house.. :)
..again , just me. :)
 
#13
nightrider50 said:
Next Problem:
in the back of the upper intake manifold there is 2 screw in bolts. one is plugged off and the other one is a black screw in thing with 3 connections coming out of it. the big connection goes to a hose on the driver's side harness marked "S", (next to the "A/C" and other lines). one of the smaller connections goes to the fuel pressure regulator. then there is one more connection from the back of the upper intake... i cant find anything that is supposed to go onto it! i think it is all vacuum stuff.

I noticed that there is one vacuum line coming from a vacuum box thing mounted by the passengers side camber plate with a loose tube coming off of it. that could possibly go on the upper intake manifold??? or does it go onto the black box to the left of the "S" "A/C" harness?

sorry for all the bad descriptions. this is my first time doing any engine stuff like this, (im only 17). any help would be great... thanx guys
Click to expand...

Okay I know exactly what your talking about...the fuel pressure vacuum line (mine was red) go on the FPR...and there is a little black hose (made the same as the fuel pressure vacuum line) that goes on that back of that intake and it goes over to your passenger side where there is many vacuum lines that plug into other vacuum lines...I know that is probably the worst description...sorry...but the other vacuum line your talking about is black and is pretty long...you should spot it...and connects into that "tree" of vacuum lines on the passenger side...

If I understand you right...it does not go on the box to the left of the S and A/C...but I know what your talking about...it connects on the passenger side...take a look and you should know what I'm talking about...

David
 
#15
i looked on my friends brothers 5.0 and found out that nothing goes onto that black box. so i got everything all hooked up and ready to start the car after the HCI install...

Next Problem: (i hate problems)
as soon as i turned the key to the on position, (to build fuel pressure) the coil fried and a huge puff of smoke blew out of the engine bay. so i looked around and everything looked fine. i tried to start the engine and the starter just kept turning but there was no spark. what do i need to do besides replace the coil now?

does the negative battery ground go to the drivers side of the housing between the block and the water pump?? just making sure... thanx
 
#16
"the coil fried and a huge puff of smoke blew out of the engine bay. so i looked around and everything looked fine"

Well - those two things are inconsistent with each other; look around some more cause something got cooked. And don't simply replace the coil until you figure out what fried and why it fried - or else you'll just fry the new one too.
 
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