I have 120k on mine and it still runs great. However my AODE is a different story. Tried to race my brothers z28 last night, hammered it from a roll...tranny downshifted and slipped badly. So I may lots of noise but I didn't really go anywhere. I need to do the 5 speed swap soon.
I pulled mine at 167k. It was bone stock, but I beat the crap out of it for about 50k.Only problems with it was a noisy lifter and the oil pan was leaking. Actually, I just sold it to a guy and it fired right up after sitting for two years.
one of the reasons im so concerned with it is because there is a reputiable local mechanic here and i mentioned doing the HCI to my stock bottom end. he told me within a short time it WILL start smoking.
If you're really concerned, why not throw another $200 at a re-ring kit? You'll already be deep into the engine anyway.
I'll say it this way ... I could agree AND disagree with him
I can relate to his thinking as years ago ...
I twisted wrenches on Motorcycles for a living
and
There are some peeps around who on a daily basis tear up
BB's and Bowling Balls with the attitude of......
"Doesn't Everybody"
Based upon info you provided above ... You don't seem like that
Yes ... h/c/i will work that motor with more stress
but
Your right foot does control that amount of stress
Lets just say ... h/c/i on your Stang has the potential of
greatly reducing the lifespan
Bottom line ... Sure ... more power will shorten lifespan
and
If you throw juice in the mix with your concerns ...
Well ... what do you think will happen
with even ... more power
Its all about how well your rings are NOW sealing
and
Your attitude about how often you ask it for max power
First order of biz is ... How much squeeze in the holes
Grady
"my factory hyper pistons probably ok for making 300ish whp opposed to forged?"
HAha. That is another internet myth. There is nothing wrong with hyper pistons ESPECIALLY N/A PERIOD.
Now, you can run nitrous OR boost on them NP PROBLEM as well as long as you get a good tune! I would recommend NOT experimenting with tweecer either. There are a few guys who have run boost and nitrous and screwed up/blown up their cars because they are amatuers NOT professionsals EXPERIMENTALLY tuning their cars with trial and error and internet "maybes" for answers.
Go and get the professionals to tune it for n/a and then flip a switch for n02 or whatever you like as a 2nd or 3rd tune and be done with it.
Oh gosh no, I would not go to the trouble to do that or anything else to the engine other than just putting in the H/C/I .. and maybe lifters. I just look at it this way..plenty of guys are running their engines ALOT harder than what you are suggesting wit hALOT more miles and have been for ALOT of time. The hyper pistons are a NON issue for anything N/A.
As to the tuning, I could never get any real answers I needed anywhere about the tweecer from anyone here or anywhere else. It was as if they wanted you to pay a price or struggle b4 you got an answer and even then they gave you an incomplete answer. That is my experience. I am not flaming stangnet by any means. That was JUST my experience with the TWEECER. It was a freaking nightmare. PLUS I didn't have time to fool with it and to do it right you needed to spend around $1000 with all the gadgets and it never sealed right on my stock computer and would shut off all the time. Drove me nuts....SO...
I went and got a chip for $250 and a tune from Kauffmans for $220 and I have MULITIPLE settings and never ever have to fool with it or HOPE and pray for help from anyone... I just get in and drive and I know it is professionally done!
Now I am expecting someflamage on that one!!! LOL. BUT that is MY opinion. It does not mea nit is right for everyone!
yea the tuning issue scares me to death. i considered buying a tweecar but im already intimidated. im computer savvy....but NOT tuning savvy.
i just want it to run good enough to drive around town until i can get it tuned
Also, don't make the other mistake I made which was changing injectors to 24# and buying a MAF PROGRAMMED for 24# injectors and expecting the car to start up and run...it didn't. In fact, it bucked, spat, choked and sucked, lol..
Sound's like just bad luck to me. It wasn't a C&L meter was it? My 418 didn't run perfect, but it was pretty darn good with a Pro-M 80mm calibrated for 42# injectors.
I hear the L-Maf is the way to go, tho. Because it uses stock electronics it's easier to tune, or something to that effect.
thanks for chiming in grady.
as far as the rings go, is this what you are saying?: if the car does not smoke now, then the rings have sealed well and probably wont for a long while ( based on driving habits ) even after the HCI.
thanks again
Some people swear by tweecer too so they deserve their say.
Also, don't make the other mistake I made which was changing injectors to 24# and buying a MAF PROGRAMMED for 24# injectors and expecting the car to start up and run...it didn't. In fact, it bucked, spat, choked and sucked, lol..after I did the H/C/I. It REQUIRED a tune unlike some others have experienced. That cost me $1200 to figure out because I took it to an overpriced shop that took me for an idiot which I later found out from the guys here that all I needed was reprogrammed MAF table.
Just a bit more detail I guess to get you started
You can tell about the rings with two methods
1 Compression Check
2 Leak Down Check
#1 is pretty easy for anyone to do with a tester
#2 is a bit more involved but is more precise
This also tells you how well your valves are holding pressure
at their seats
So if you have a hole or two with lower values then you very
well could be seeing a prob there as well
Anyway ... just find detailed info about each method and
it will become all too clear for you
Grady
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