I think I am done for the day. Got the short block together, got the cam degreed, checked PTV clearance, installed new oil pump, repainted block, and got the studs installed with thread sealant.
First off, I did not have access to the dial bore gauge and other tools I did t he first go around. So, I tried the plastigauge. To anyone who has done this with success, congrads. It kept sticking to everything and I was have to scrape it off with my finger nail. The "good" readings that I got were all around the .0020" range, which is on the tight side. I believe I have more clearance then that, but I rolled with it. I installed the new bearings, rotated the crank and rods, and pulled everything apart again. All looked good, so I put it all back.
Next up was degreeing the cam, which I have never done. That took a while to get my small brain around it, but once I figured it out, I came up with my cam being 1 degree off. Probably my error, but good enough, so it stayed installed dot to dot.
Next I put one head on with a set of check springs. At the same time, I used an adjustable pushrod to start trying to obtain good rocker geometry. I went through several rotations while working on this. Once I got it where I thought it needed to be, I swapped my solid roller to the exhaust side and checked it. All looked good. Off came the head and I measured my clay on the piston. .120 intake and .115 exhaust, good to go.
I installed the studs and decided to call it for the evening. I will order pushrods tonight and hopefully they will be here tomorrow from summit.
Joe
First off, I did not have access to the dial bore gauge and other tools I did t he first go around. So, I tried the plastigauge. To anyone who has done this with success, congrads. It kept sticking to everything and I was have to scrape it off with my finger nail. The "good" readings that I got were all around the .0020" range, which is on the tight side. I believe I have more clearance then that, but I rolled with it. I installed the new bearings, rotated the crank and rods, and pulled everything apart again. All looked good, so I put it all back.
Next up was degreeing the cam, which I have never done. That took a while to get my small brain around it, but once I figured it out, I came up with my cam being 1 degree off. Probably my error, but good enough, so it stayed installed dot to dot.
Next I put one head on with a set of check springs. At the same time, I used an adjustable pushrod to start trying to obtain good rocker geometry. I went through several rotations while working on this. Once I got it where I thought it needed to be, I swapped my solid roller to the exhaust side and checked it. All looked good. Off came the head and I measured my clay on the piston. .120 intake and .115 exhaust, good to go.
I installed the studs and decided to call it for the evening. I will order pushrods tonight and hopefully they will be here tomorrow from summit.
Joe
Here are a few pics. We put in an oil galley plug with a .030 hole to provide oil to the distributor gear. Pic of the new main bearings getting ready to go in. Another pic of the polished crankshaft, and finally my stopping point for the day.
Joe
Joe
Got off to a slow start today, went and had breakfast with the wife, then a little trip to homedepot. But nontheless, I got a few things done. Heads are on, timing cover and oil pan. I also got the lower intake bolted on, but I am still waiting on my pushrods. They are scheduled to be here today. I ended up measuring a 6.514, so I ordered a 6.5" set. I also got my k member under the car, but I only got one side of the suspension put back together. Here is a pic.
Joe
Joe
Long day today, but I did get a few things done. Got the pushrods in, but I had to adjust some of the guide plates to make the rockers sit right on the valves side to side. I Primed the motor and added a bottle of STP addative, which has extra zinc. I got the motor in the car, but it's just bolted down. I bolted on the flywheel and new ram clutch. I swore I would never buy a ram again, but Tony from astro performance recommended the powergrip, so I will give it a try. I got the passenger side header loosely bolted up, but I have a question for the driver's side.
The mac headers are designed to allow the steering shafts to pass through, but I see a lot of people buying the $200 flaming river rack to get rid of the rag joint for clearance issues. Had anyone ever simply replaced the rag joint with a universal or direct fit u joint and kept the stock shaft? Not sure if this is possible, but if so this would be the route I would take.
Joe
The mac headers are designed to allow the steering shafts to pass through, but I see a lot of people buying the $200 flaming river rack to get rid of the rag joint for clearance issues. Had anyone ever simply replaced the rag joint with a universal or direct fit u joint and kept the stock shaft? Not sure if this is possible, but if so this would be the route I would take.
Joe
I'm curious about this too. My rag joint rubs on one of the primaries and would love to fix it. I think you could piece a shaft together cheaper - speedway motors sells all the parts and are relatively cheap. I'll look into piecing one together tomorrow
Not sure what you have access to Joe, but I built a shaft out of two to eliminate the rag joint back before flaming river or mm had one available. This was early 90s, and I was swapping in a 351w. Not a lot of stuff to choose from back then. All I did was saw up the shafts and heli arc one stock u joint in place of the rag joint. Cost me 10 bucks for a junk yard shaft. If you or a friend have access to a welding machine, it's not a difficult operation.
When you heli arc weld, what do you mean? I can access a welder and can do very basic stuff. Of course, the friend who has the welder can weld obviously.
Joe
TIG welding. I guess you could use a different process, but tig is very precise.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_tungsten_arc_welding
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_tungsten_arc_welding
Gotcha. This may be something to think about. I may take some measurements and visit the junkyard.
Joe
The wife and I hit the beach for a few days, so I didn't work on the car this weekend. However, we got home tonight and I scored an hour or so in the garage. The good news is that my headers work with the stock steering shaft!
Progress will be slow over the next month while I button things up 15 minutes at a time. There is normally a Christmas race in Calhoun in December, so I would like to have some break in time on my clutch well before then.
Joe
Progress will be slow over the next month while I button things up 15 minutes at a time. There is normally a Christmas race in Calhoun in December, so I would like to have some break in time on my clutch well before then.
Joe
Progress is very slow right now, and will be even slower come next week.
Last night I tried to install my mcleod bellhousing. The passenger'side side header had to come off for the bell to go on. My brother-n-law had already clearance the bell by trimming the starters edge and beating it in with a BFH.
The problem I am having is that the passengers side header is already touching the frame rail. Now that the bell is on, I can't get the header back in place. I think the engine needs to be slid towards the driver's side a little more. I leveled the motor when I installed it. Is it really important for the motor to be level? If I slide it one way or the other it is going to be a little unlevel.
My other thought, whichecked I will try first, is to b loosen the k member and try to push it as far as I can towards the driver's side.
Any ideas?
Joe
Last night I tried to install my mcleod bellhousing. The passenger'side side header had to come off for the bell to go on. My brother-n-law had already clearance the bell by trimming the starters edge and beating it in with a BFH.
The problem I am having is that the passengers side header is already touching the frame rail. Now that the bell is on, I can't get the header back in place. I think the engine needs to be slid towards the driver's side a little more. I leveled the motor when I installed it. Is it really important for the motor to be level? If I slide it one way or the other it is going to be a little unlevel.
My other thought, whichecked I will try first, is to b loosen the k member and try to push it as far as I can towards the driver's side.
Any ideas?
Joe
Progress is very slow right now, and will be even slower come next week.
Last night I tried to install my mcleod bellhousing. The passenger'side side header had to come off for the bell to go on. My brother-n-law had already clearance the bell by trimming the starters edge and beating it in with a BFH.
The problem I am having is that the passengers side header is already touching the frame rail. Now that the bell is on, I can't get the header back in place. I think the engine needs to be slid towards the driver's side a little more. I leveled the motor when I installed it. Is it really important for the motor to be level? If I slide it one way or the other it is going to be a little unlevel.
My other thought, which I will try first, is to loosen the k member and try to push it as far as I can towards the driver's side.
Any ideas?
Joe
Last night I tried to install my mcleod bellhousing. The passenger'side side header had to come off for the bell to go on. My brother-n-law had already clearance the bell by trimming the starters edge and beating it in with a BFH.
The problem I am having is that the passengers side header is already touching the frame rail. Now that the bell is on, I can't get the header back in place. I think the engine needs to be slid towards the driver's side a little more. I leveled the motor when I installed it. Is it really important for the motor to be level? If I slide it one way or the other it is going to be a little unlevel.
My other thought, which I will try first, is to loosen the k member and try to push it as far as I can towards the driver's side.
Any ideas?
Joe
Been driving out of town everyday this week for training, but I worked on the car last night and today. I tried everything, but the longtubes would not fit. They were hitting the frame rail on the passengers side and I could not bolt them on. I lifted the motor and installed then, but as soon as I let it down they hit and caused the driver's side motor mount to not line up.
I tried adjusting the k-member, but with no luck. So, the shorties went back on for now. I have no more money to spend on a nice set of longtubes, so I will make do. The good side is that I told Ed Curtis I was running shorties and the cam was cut with that in mind.
One other issue is the hood is hitting the intake. I am going to try to trim the support brackets and make it clear.
Car is about 95% together. I hope to have a crank up video next weekend.
Joe
I tried adjusting the k-member, but with no luck. So, the shorties went back on for now. I have no more money to spend on a nice set of longtubes, so I will make do. The good side is that I told Ed Curtis I was running shorties and the cam was cut with that in mind.
One other issue is the hood is hitting the intake. I am going to try to trim the support brackets and make it clear.
Car is about 95% together. I hope to have a crank up video next weekend.
Joe