Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine

mikestang63 · Feb 25, 2016

7991LXnSHO said:
So what does the water do to those gaskets? Without a catalog, I could use help remembering their composition.

If you are using cork/paper gaskets they swell and then when you install them and the engine heats up, the gaskets fuse to the head and header surface, ensuring a tight seal. Obviously if using composite or metal gaskets, it doesn't do a thing except make them wet.

Gearbanger 101 · Feb 26, 2016

7991LXnSHO said:
So what does the water do to those gaskets? Without a catalog, I could use help remembering their composition.

Soaking them in water overnight makes them soften and swell up a little. Then when you tighten the header down, it conforms to the low spots on the surface of the flange. This was an old school trick used back when most gaskets were paper based. Doesn't really work on the new carbon, aluminum and steel core gaskets.

*edit*

How did I not see mikes response to this?

mikestang63 · Feb 26, 2016

Gearbanger 101 said:
Soaking them in water overnight makes them soften and swell up a little. Then when you tighten the header down, it conforms to the low spots on the surface of the flange. This was an old school trick used back when most gaskets were paper based. Doesn't really work on the new carbon, aluminum and steel core gaskets.

*edit*

How did I not see mikes response to this?

I used my seceret ninja posting skills

stang89bidges · Feb 28, 2016

My weekend project:

I picked up an MSHA grade oil drain line to replace my old Vortech hose. It's got some age and is dry rotted. Leaks oil at the pan. I also picked up a new 180 degree Mr Gasket thermostat to replace the one I put in during my rebuild almost a year ago. I had installed a 192 degree factory temp stat and figured this was a good time to replace. I also picked up a new upper radiator hose to cut and fit to my Vortech custom radiator hose pipe. It is also leaking a little.

I fully removed the super and cleaned it up while it was out. I noticed there is oil seeping out from the air inlet. There is also oil seeping out the air outlet inside the air intake tube going to TB. Is this normal? @84Ttop @a91what

So I pull the thermostat housing and this is what happened. Cheap AZ therm just blew apart. Lucky it was working at all. Might not have been. On a couple of cold days like 10 degrees at night my car never got over 100 degrees but I do have a huge radiator and electric fan now. Fan never came on of course.

This one was at AZ but in the performance/racing section. My research shows its a lot better quality. Plus jumping back down to 180 I should do my engine some good and maybe gain 1-2 hp. Screw economy, that's not why were here.

Installed the correct way. I put a thin coat of black RTV on both sides of the gasket before installing.

New hose compared to custom Vortech setup. The angles change to clear the super.

You can also see how badly the old one was worn out, it just got so loose and worn it just doesn't seal up over the water neck.

I got everything back together yesterday and ran it into town. Drove it a couple hours today as well. Beautiful out. Got home and there is not a drop in the driveway and I double checked the top of the timing cover. Bone dry baby.

Last weekend I got underneath the car and found I needed to tighten my oil pan bolts up again since the rebuild. They were a little loose and it was leaking just a bit. Also tightened up my oil sensor probe on side of oil pan. And of course my Fumoto valve was leaking too. Gave it a little turn extra too. All bone dry today after driving.

TOOLOW91 · Feb 28, 2016

I'd say the blower is starting to need seals .

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

stang89bidges · Feb 28, 2016

TOOLOW91 said:
I'd say the blower is starting to need seals .

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

Great... Figures... Probably go ahead and rebuild it then. Put in new bearings and seals.

TOOLOW91 · Feb 28, 2016

stang89bidges said:
Great... Figures... Probably go ahead and rebuild it then. Put in new bearings and seals.

Id prob send it in to vortech . I don't think it's too involved but I'm sure nick can elaborate on it .

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

mikestang63 · Feb 29, 2016

nice work my friend.

Couple of points

1. make sure the thermostat is installed with any bleed holes towards the top. I always drill a small 1/8" hole in the top of them if they don't have one as a safety measure
2. if you have oil seepage out of the blower, check the shaft for signs of end play. it sounds like the seals are on their way out.
3. be real careful on tightening up the oil pan bolts. just snug them down.. don't overtighten or they will leak.

stang89bidges · Feb 29, 2016

TOOLOW91 said:
Id prob send it in to vortech . I don't think it's too involved but I'm sure nick can elaborate on it .

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

I'm pretty sure they cost a pretty penny to have Vortech rebuild it right? I don't want to pay for that if I can do it myself... I was also thinking about the impeller and whether or not I should upgrade it...?

I'm running an older Vortech V2 model.

mikestang63 · Feb 29, 2016

stang89bidges said:
I'm pretty sure they cost a pretty penny to have Vortech rebuild it right? I don't want to pay for that if I can do it myself... I was also thinking about the impeller and whether or not I should upgrade it...?

I'm running an older Vortech V2 model.

When I had Vortech upgrade my A to S trim, it was about $700 - but that was 15 years ago... lol.... best to call them but they will probably say they need to see the unit. Give them the serial # and they can tell you if it has ever been serviced.

TOOLOW91 · Mar 1, 2016

mikestang63 said:
When I had Vortech upgrade my A to S trim, it was about $700 - but that was 15 years ago... lol.... best to call them but they will probably say they need to see the unit. Give them the serial # and they can tell you if it has ever been serviced.

IIRC 250-300 rings a bell for just a rebuild .

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

stang89bidges · Mar 6, 2016

I went and did it. Bought a new AGM battery.

I bought a new battery from AZ about 6 months ago or so. I had a larger truck battery with 800 CCA but got the smaller 600 CCA original. Kept going dead on me. Long story short AZ did an exchange for me to upgrade. Got all my money back from last battery and put towards the new AGM platinum. Hope it lasts.

Only cost me $38 with credit from old battery. Boom.

Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk

stang89bidges · Apr 29, 2016

When the new battery goes dead on you too then you know you have a problem... Still happy I got the AGM though.

I have battery drain overnight.... Ugh. This is gonna suck.

My visors mirror and light flaps are in bad shape, hoping that's the problem.

stang89bidges · Apr 29, 2016

Did I mention I went and got engaged last week? Maybe thats the problem. My baby is jealous of the other woman...

mikestang63 · Apr 29, 2016

stang89bidges said:
Did I mention I went and got engaged last week? Maybe thats the problem. My baby is jealous of the other woman...

My experience has been it's the other way around..................

a91what · Apr 29, 2016

You can pull the fuses one at a time with the key off and using a dmm see what is drawing current.

Mine ended up being the power driver seat.

stang89bidges · Apr 29, 2016

That's interesting, I just had my driver seat out when I installed my new a-pillar guages and clutch cable. I will check that sucker too for sure. What would I do without my stangnet memory... Reasons I document everything on here. Well, everything I can remember to document... :drink:

stang89bidges · Apr 29, 2016

stang89bidges said:
My weekend project:

I picked up an MSHA grade oil drain line to replace my old Vortech hose. It's got some age and is dry rotted. Leaks oil at the pan. I also picked up a new 180 degree Mr Gasket thermostat to replace the one I put in during my rebuild almost a year ago. I had installed a 192 degree factory temp stat and figured this was a good time to replace. I also picked up a new upper radiator hose to cut and fit to my Vortech custom radiator hose pipe. It is also leaking a little.

PS: So far no leaks! Oil drain line is holding up as it should(upgraded). The new thermostat seems to be doing well sitting at 180 instead of 192. And the new upper radiator hose is exactly what the doctor ordered. The top of my timing cover has never been so dry... Not to mention I am no longer embarrassed to drive it into someone else's driveway now instead of parking on the street

stang89bidges · May 18, 2016

Hahahaha. I wish this was my neighbor so I could laugh some more.

Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk

stang89bidges · May 18, 2016

Took the beast to my first car show in Dallas. Pretty good time. There was another 89 vert there that was COMPLETELY stock. High miles, but looked real nice. He won the award for our class of course, mine was just another street car haha. Till he heard me fire it up

I need to upgrade my fuel injectors, MAF, and get a tune... That paired with my current mods will be friggin awesome.

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