Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine

A5literMan · Jan 25, 2015

stang89bidges said:
Well I got her out this afternoon. Came out super easy with cherry picker.

Bought a universal engine puller plate for $10 at advanced auto but it doesn't fit our skinny lower intake. I already had engine stripped to block anyways so I just used chains.

So how far do I need to tear down the engine for the machine shop so they can magnaflux for cracks and pressure test it?

You have to take everything out to just the bare block.

stang89bidges · Jan 25, 2015

A5literMan said:
You have to take everything out to just the bare block.

Ok, figured I would build a 2x4 engine holder but found a 1000lb rotisserie engine stand at harbor freight for $60. I figure I would have $40 in the materials to build one so I guess I will go pick one up tomorrow.

Did you watch the video I posted about refreshing the engine? It's actually powernation/horsepower tv show they show on bravo and velocity channels. Very informative, was hoping to get your opinion on the show.

stang89bidges · Jan 29, 2015

I got the engine broke down last night. Had some real fun with the damper removal tool. I rented a universal kit from the zone. Read the instructions BEFORE I attempted. I removed the center bolt from balancer, placed the removal tool on the damper, started to tighten her down and knew something was wrong when I saw this:

I snapped a bolt off right into the threats of the damper, then went and got my own bolts and tried again... broke the removal tool right in half, back to the zone got another kit. did a little research before I used it, turns out there's a washer behind that bolt in the damper, duh...

it's been fun but glad it's tore down. The engine rotisserie was great, couldn't imagine doing it any other way.

Taking the block to the machine shop today hopefully I get good results back

Boosted92LX · Jan 29, 2015

Yeah that washer is an important thing to remember alright. .

I'm agreeing on the heads lifting. I've seen it before. When you go back together with it invest in some arp head bolts or studs. They can save a lot of heartache..

elarm1 · Jan 29, 2015

The machine shop will tell you everything you need to know! I was spraying a 150 shot and noticed I lost some oil pressure. It drove fine, just was low on pressure. I decided to rip it out to finally see what happened a month later and the block was cracked down the lifter galley. Sucked to say the least!!!

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ng-50L-Arp-High-Performance-Hex-Head-Stud-Kit
Just added these to my new build.... I hear they are worth their weight in gold!!!

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...-Head-Arp-Rod-Bolts-For-Stock-Connecting-Rods
Might as well get these

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ng-50L-2-Bolt-Main-Hex-Head-Arp-Main-Bolt-Kit
and these!

mikestang63 · Jan 29, 2015

stang89bidges said:
I got the engine broke down last night. Had some real fun with the damper removal tool. I rented a universal kit from the zone. Read the instructions BEFORE I attempted. I removed the center bolt from balancer, placed the removal tool on the damper, started to tighten her down and knew something was wrong when I saw this:

I snapped a bolt off right into the threats of the damper, then went and got my own bolts and tried again... broke the removal tool right in half, back to the zone got another kit. did a little research before I used it, turns out there's a washer behind that bolt in the damper, duh...

it's been fun but glad it's tore down. The engine rotisserie was great, couldn't imagine doing it any other way.

Taking the block to the machine shop today hopefully I get good results back

You are not the first nor the last to leave the washer on. Magnaflux the block for cracks before they do anything else to it.

stang89bidges · Jan 29, 2015

@mikestang63 I certainly intend on waiting for an answer from machine shop before I make any decisions. If it's not cracked I intend on just refreshing the engine a little. Rehoning the cylinder walls, filing down rough edges, maybe replacing races/bearings, and doing an at home cylinder head porting myself. I'm hear to learn, not gonna stand back and watch someone else do it

Guy at shop told me everything looks great at first glance, with only 75000 miles on it everything is rated at another 100,000 still yet to go. Normal driving and proper maintenance of course.

So I have some questions about those ARP links you provided @elarm1 . The studs, how do these work, do the studs simply screw into existing holes like the bolts do, then when you drop heads over them you tighten the heads down with nuts on the studs?

Second link, rod arm bolts, how do those work? Looks like my factory rod arms don't have bolts they are pressed studs??? I think. So if I'm right do I have to cut those out and tap the holes for these bolts?

Third link, main bolts, think I need those with only 70,000 on engine and its been properly maintained?

I'm trying to keep cost down as much as I can this time around so I'm only getting what I really need. I'm not running the crap out of this car, I only get on it occasionally and I never red line her. That's how this car gets driven. Not sure how much difference that makes.

Next time I tear her down she's getting all the upgrades and I will start taking her to the track for some race fun.

So what I need help with and is more important to me right now is what parts can I reuse? Main cap bearings don't have grooves, cylinder walls still have crosshatch(I'm gonna rehone anyways), cam shaft bearings look good, oil pan was clean as a whistle. What can I reuse? Damper? Oil pump? Bearings/races? Bolts?

Boosted92LX · Jan 30, 2015

The rod bolts press in. You don't have to drill and tap them. If you're lucky you can pop em out with a hammer handle...

As far as the bearings go, if you are running a super charger now that it's torn down you'd be doing yourself a favor going to clevite "H" bearings. These are harder than stock and handle the abuse of boost and nitrous a lot better. I know a lot of folks run completely stock bottom ends with boost, but I've seen a lot of beat up stock bearings. Since you're there already, it can't hurt.

The head studs have a hex in the end to drive in with an allen wrench, then you screw the nut on. I've heard there's not room between the shock towers to slip the head over the studs. Also- use a sealant on the studs as they go into your water jacket. Permatex aviation is a good one to use.

edit:
Yes reuse the damper and the bolts save for the arp replacement ones you buy. Throw away the oil pump, timing chain, and water pump. Also better to replace cam bearings and freezeplugs now. I just went through a 302 for my son and the freeze plugs looked great from the outside, but were almost rusted all the way thru. You do not want to pull the engine later to fix a leak from one when you can do it now.

Chuckman · Jan 30, 2015

You can pasd on the rod and main bolts if you want, but at least get some arp head bolts if you haven't already. The stock ones are torque to yield, and are done after the first time they're torqued. The arp's are reusable as long as you don't over torque them. If you were reusing the stock bolts, this may be way you were having gasket problems.

mikestang63 · Jan 30, 2015

Chuckman said:
You can pasd on the rod and main bolts if you want, but at least get some arp head bolts if you haven't already. The stock ones are torque to yield, and are done after the first time they're torqued. The arp's are reusable as long as you don't over torque them. If you were reusing the stock bolts, this may be way you were having gasket problems.

I would respectfully disagree. After 25 years and XXX thousand miles, those bolts are most likely stretched, fatigued, or worse. While he has everything apart, spend the extra $100 and do it right the first time. At a minimum replace them with new OEM parts for piece of mind.

stang89bidges · Jan 30, 2015

I bought a set of oem replacement head bolts the last time I replaced heads. Think they are still ok?

Gottem from latemodelresto in a kit with head gaskets.

I put maybe 50 miles on car withem.

elarm1 · Jan 30, 2015

Nope! I believe that is where your head gasket problems are residing!

mikestang63 · Jan 30, 2015

stang89bidges said:
I bought a set of oem replacement head bolts the last time I replaced heads. Think they are still ok?

Gottem from latemodelresto in a kit with head gaskets.

I put maybe 50 miles on car withem.

There are things you skimp on and things you don't- engine fasteners and gaskets are in the DON'T column

RangerJoe · Jan 30, 2015

Good fasteners are an investment. If you put arp bolts in the rods, you MAY have to resize the rods. By this point, it may be cheaper to buy aftermarket rods, or at least not that much more expensive. Maybe within $50 of each other. But, that may require a rebalance. Just talk with your machinist and feel out all your options. Replace all your bearings, freeze plugs and rings. Its really not That expensive, and these are your big wear items.

Joe

stang89bidges · Jan 30, 2015

Ok, I will get new head bolts or studs. ARP brand.

What kind of head gaskets do you guys run in your blown 5.0's?

I just want to say I drove this car with a blower installed for 3 years without head gasket problems running stock 25 yr old head gaskets.

And I will get all new bolts for main caps and rods if you tell me I shouldn't use the old ones.

elarm1 · Jan 30, 2015

Shouldn't have to resize the rods for ARP bolts. I know I didn't when I added them. I just knocked out the old and screwed on the new!!!

elarm1 · Jan 30, 2015

I think I used these... PT9333 felpros

Mstng93SSP · Jan 30, 2015

I have a brand new set of ARP head bolts, ARP 154-3601 brand new complete in the box that I don't need. Send me a message if interested. Will give you a deal.

Chris

stang89bidges · Jan 30, 2015

Felpro 9333 composite gaskets are the ones I have been using. What is PT?

stang89bidges · Jan 30, 2015

And here is what I have now. 50 miles on them.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6051D50/Ford-Racing-Head-Gasket-Bolt-Kit-Mustang-79-95-50

Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...

stang89bidges

Advanced Member

stang89bidges

Advanced Member

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

elarm1

mikestang63

stang89bidges

Advanced Member

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

mikestang63

stang89bidges

Advanced Member

elarm1

mikestang63

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving

stang89bidges

Advanced Member

elarm1

elarm1

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.

stang89bidges

Advanced Member

stang89bidges

Advanced Member

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Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine

At least it is lumpy...

Advanced Member

Advanced Member

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

Advanced Member

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

Advanced Member

I leave the horn on while driving

Advanced Member

You have a nice rear end there Dave.

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