Engine Head Gaskets Again

Hypnotic818 · Jan 17, 2017

Alright guys long time no post. Last time I posted I was fishing out a bolt from the dizzy hole thanks to my brother.
So a little recap of what I've been dealing with

Blew my head gaskets. Bought new heads. Lower intake wasn't on right. Than dropped bolt down dizzy.

So I got my car back today from the mechanics. I had them remove the bolt and change the oil pump due to oil pressure dropping 3 months ago. Car has been sitting for 3 months. But yesterday when they got the bolt out, changed pump, and put the car back together it blew its head gasket. They tested it for free the liquid came back yellow.

When I changed the heads and gaskets last year I was told that I could reuse my head bolts just fine. But now I'm thinking is that the cause of the issue? I read online that 94 Gt's are torq to yield bolts. Is that true or is it possible I just need a new engine? That's what the mechanic was recommending but I live in an apartment so that's next to impossible for me to do and I refuse to pay a mechanic 1k to do it for me lmao.

So should I buy new head bolts and exhaust bolts(I put lock tight on em) and change the gaskets again? Or is it time to look into a new engine?
Also what type of adapter for GT40p heads do I need for a compression test? Mine is to short and won't grab lol.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

jozsefsz · Jan 17, 2017

The bolts are torque-to-yield. You might get away with reusing them once, but they're almost cheaper than the gaskets so it's kind of crazy not to change them. If you're already reused them once and had this problem again, definitely definitely change them.

Still no idea if you have a cracked block or truly a head / head gasket problem. You should have those heads checked out to help you stop chasing your tail. And to make sure they're nice and flat. And follow the tightening sequence and multi-stage torque specs to the letter. Repeatedly blowing gaskets and introducing coolant into the engine will mess things (like bearings) up really fast. Up to you whether or not just having a junkyard 5.0 dropped in makes sense or to keep fighting the good fight. I'd base it on how long I'd run the car with a blown head gasket and how much coolant there was. Find a buddy with a house and some tools that accepts beer in payment, that's how I made it through my apartment years.

On the gauge, I use one of those "spark plug anti-fouler" extensions they sell at AutoZone. I think I had to file the top of it down though because the gauge wouldn't even thread into that.

Hypnotic818 · Jan 17, 2017

Yeah I'm gonna get the ARP bolts for this change. Should I have the heads checked even though they have less than 10 mins of driving time on them? I never got the car running after the head change

I'm gonna try replacing the gaskets one more time with new bolts and dowel pins with the exhaust done properly this time and if it blows again than new engine it is!

And alright I'll look for one those for compression test. I bought a kit but the 14mm won't thread because the its not long enough

Dan_Soprano · Jan 18, 2017

You will more then likely be wasting your money at this point just throwing new head gaskets on it. Get the heads and block decked as Hypnotic mentioned above to ensure flat surfaces.

Hypnotic818 · Jan 18, 2017

The closest machine shop to do the block is an hour and a half away :o Should I check for flatness myself or should I make the drive?

Sorry for the questions still a noob at this stuff

RaggedGT · Jan 18, 2017

I vote head studs

Hypnotic818 · Jan 18, 2017

RaggedGT said:
I vote head studs

For the heads? If so which ones?

RaggedGT · Jan 18, 2017

Hypnotic818 said:
For the heads? If so which ones?

ARP has a nice kit-kinda pricey though

Hypnotic818 · Jan 18, 2017

RaggedGT said:
ARP has a nice kit-kinda pricey though

Ohh okay I saw them for $150 since they are resealable I might get those

Also what size of a feeler gauge should fit under the straight edge or precision ruler?

89llx · Jan 19, 2017

check the head and block surface with a straight edge

Hypnotic818 · Jan 19, 2017

89llx said:
check the head and block surface with a straight edge

What feeler gauge shouldn't fit under it?

Dan_Soprano · Jan 24, 2017

Hypnotic818 said:
What feeler gauge shouldn't fit under it?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/me...k-got-feeler-gauges-and-straight-edge.304094/

decent write up on how it's done.

Hypnotic818 · Jan 24, 2017

Dan_Soprano said:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/me...k-got-feeler-gauges-and-straight-edge.304094/

decent write up on how it's done.

Thank you so much for this!
I'll be starting once this ran is done pouring on Cali lol. I'll keep you guys updated and stuff

Hypnotic818 · Feb 5, 2017

Hey guys I have done the head gaskets. I checked head and block with straight edge and both of them are good. Ran into an issue with the putting the pulley back on tho. The inside of the power steering pump has stripped 3 bolts when putting the pulley back on. I tried heating the pulley for 20 mins on broil but it only goes on a bit not all the way. Any help with this part?

Dan_Soprano · Feb 6, 2017

Hypnotic818 said:
Hey guys I have done the head gaskets. I checked head and block with straight edge and both of them are good. Ran into an issue with the putting the pulley back on tho. The inside of the power steering pump has stripped 3 bolts when putting the pulley back on. I tried heating the pulley for 20 mins on broil but it only goes on a bit not all the way. Any help with this part?

I take it you are using the pulley installation tool?

Hypnotic818 · Feb 6, 2017

Dan_Soprano said:
I take it you are using the pulley installation tool?

Yes I am

jozsefsz · Feb 6, 2017

Do not under any circumstances wreck your pulley, they're next-to-impossible to find. The threads on the inside of the pump are probably shot / rusted out. Pumps are really cheap, get a new one and a good grade 8 bolt for installation. I use a little WD-40 on the shaft, make sure the installation tool bolt is tightened into the shaft as far as it'll go, and tighten away.

Hypnotic818 · Feb 6, 2017

jozsefsz said:
Do not under any circumstances wreck your pulley, they're next-to-impossible to find. The threads on the inside of the pump are probably shot / rusted out. Pumps are really cheap, get a new one and a good grade 8 bolt for installation. I use a little WD-40 on the shaft, make sure the installation tool bolt is tightened into the shaft as far as it'll go, and tighten away.

Yeah I was thinking of getting a new pump. Pretty sure mine hasn't been replaced yet so its probably time anyways lol.

And alright I'll probably invest into a grade 8 bolt just for the pump to use when I gotta put the pulley on

Engine Head Gaskets Again

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RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

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