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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Head removal :)

  • Thread starter Thread starter MikeR351w
  • Start date Start date Oct 20, 2008

MikeR351w

Founding Member
Oct 8, 2001
207
0
16
Wisconsin
Oct 20, 2008
#1
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #1
Hello,

I have a 93 LX 5.0, with an auto trans. I am currently in the process of removing the drivers side head. I currently have the bolts to the header removed, the plug wires removed, the valve cover removed and the rear thermactor passage tube removed.

Question: If I just removed the 8 bolts that secure the head to the block, do I have to removed all the valve spring bolts and such? I have never got into an engine this far. Any help would be much appreciated. Also, I do know to remove and install the bolts in proper order with correct torque specs. Thanks!!!

:SNSign:
 

ls1beater4eva

New Member
May 13, 2005
334
0
0
mooresville
Oct 20, 2008
#2
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #2
ok you first have to take off the air intake tube, upper and lower in take manifold , the ac and power steering the ac can be unbolted from the bracket and and just laid over to the side,and remember when u brake the head bolts free work from the center out top and bottom .
 

MikeR351w

Founding Member
Oct 8, 2001
207
0
16
Wisconsin
Oct 20, 2008
#3
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #3
Thanks for the reply. I am already that far. I am removing the head because a bolt snapped off in the head while preparing for a Edlebrock RPM II intake. So I dont have to touch any of the valve bolts?
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,597
223
Northern KY
Oct 20, 2008
#4
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #4
You don't have to remove the rockers to take the head off, but it's a good idea to take them off and put them back on the right way once you have the head off. It's not very hard...you just have to follow a process of turning the engine over by hand until one valve is completely closed...then torque down that rocker, and so on and so on until they're all torqued. The push rods are gonna fall out of the heads if you don't take the rockers off...and it's wise to keep track of which pushrod went with which valve, so it's probably a good idea to take the rockers off first so you can be sure which rods go where. Get a small cardboard box and poke holes in it and number the holes per cylinder and stick the rods in so you know where they go when you're putting it back together.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Oct 20, 2008
#5
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #5
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
You don't have to remove the rockers to take the head off, but it's a good idea to take them off and put them back on the right way once you have the head off. It's not very hard...you just have to follow a process of turning the engine over by hand until one valve is completely closed...then torque down that rocker, and so on and so on until they're all torqued. The push rods are gonna fall out of the heads if you don't take the rockers off...and it's wise to keep track of which pushrod went with which valve, so it's probably a good idea to take the rockers off first so you can be sure which rods go where. Get a small cardboard box and poke holes in it and number the holes per cylinder and stick the rods in so you know where they go when you're putting it back together.
Click to expand...

Very good info. Small information like this is good. I was gonna say, no, don't take the rockers off, but then when you pull the head off, the push rods will fall all over the place... Small things I forget...

302_Coupe didn't forget about this part...

+1 for 302_Coupe.
 
8

885.0conv

Member
Jan 9, 2008
238
0
16
Phoenix, Az
Oct 20, 2008
#6
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #6
I am in the process of putting new heads on mine but the bolts keep braking on me. I know the bolts for an 88 have 90 ft/lb but they have a different bolt. The head on the bolt is different. I do believe the 93's have a bolt with an integrated washer, correct me if I am wrong, they also have a different torque spec. The chilton/haynes manual should tell you, if you dont have one I recommend getting one.
 
B

btlfed91

New Member
Apr 18, 2008
42
0
0
STL
Oct 20, 2008
#7
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #7
If you are going thru all of this anyway I would go ahead and put ARP bolts on and dont worry about it anymore.good investment if you ask me.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
Oct 21, 2008
#8
  • Oct 21, 2008
  • #8
Stock headbolts will work. I suggest ARP though, as stated.

You can remove the heads after removing just the head bolts.
 
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