Header gasket install suggestions?

MUSTANGJOE

Silver Stanger
Founding Member
Apr 9, 2002
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Hey guys!

I'm gonna be changing my header gaskets this week. Its the second time this year and they blew again. Starts by a little ticking then gets luder and totaly ruins the performance of your car! Anyways, what gaskets should I get? I was thinking felpro. I have bbk shorty's 1 5/8. This time I bought those stage 8 locking bolts from 50resto. How do you install these? Should I tighten the bolts drive a little then retighten them or do I just tighten once on the install and thats it? Also should I use and high temp silicon along with my gasket or is just the gasket fine? I wanna get rid of this problem, so I wanna do it right!! :nice: Thanks for any info :)
 
I really like Mr Gasket Ultra Seal header gaskets. I hate the felpros, I have had no luck with them.
 
go4it said:
I used the 1415 felpro and haven't had any problems with them. Didn't add anything to them and have not retightened the bolts. Probably wouldn't hurt to recheck the bolts though.

I want a good seal, I heard of people just adding alittle around the exhaust holes and the bolt holes.
 
Also, these gaskets are just like any other gaskets. I ussually get the outermost bolts in first (the far back and the far front) then I loosly put all the bolts in. This really helps if you have individual flange headers. Remember, the header gaskets are just like any other gaskets, they like the be sqeezed from the center out.
 
I know the aftermarket exhaust companys love saying: "direct-fit" and "bolts right in" ... but for the most part they don't exactly.

If your mid-pipe is binding (when you go to install the headers) it puts stress on header flange and typically leads to premature gasket failure. The headers should bolt right up without any pulling or prying on the pipes ... if they do, take it to a friend or exhaust shop and get the mid-pipe cut and rewelded :nice:

I use the supplied bolts then lock two wrenchs together to give me better torque on the bolt head. Tighten them, run the car hot ... let it cool down a bit and then retighten them. Then check them periodically. Works for me.
 
I'm a big fan of the Ultra Seal from Mr Gasket as well.
IndyBlk5.0 said:
Remember, the header gaskets are just like any other gaskets, they like the be sqeezed from the center out.
I'm glad to see that this was mentioned. Most people don't do this when installing new gaskets and end up with a leak prematurely. Also, don't tighten them too tight right off the bat. Don't forget that they may need to be re-torqued at least once or twice after installation. Even with the locking fasteners. They're going to compress a little when hot and get loose when the cool down. Stone cold is the best time to re-torque them.
 
I'd add - pull the shorties off to help with alignment. If you leave them tightened at the ball/socket joint, and then try to tighten them back at the head interface, that can create seal problems. And as long as you have them off, lay a straight edge along the flange and see if they are true/flat. Most aren't. For a few bucks your local machine shop will mill a couple hundredths off the flange to make them true -- and they'll seal like a champ, and bolts will tend to stay tight.
 
LASTFOX said:
Felpro 1415's...Stage 8 lockers...no problems here! :D

Guys, So I sould intstall the gasket with the locking bolts, drive a little then wait till the car cools down and then retighten them right? So with these stage 8 bolts how can i do this? They will be locked, I won't be able to move them anymore. Unless I dont add the locks later, but is it possible? Thanks :)
 
My headers came with a copper gasket and I have no leaks. When I first installed them they had a slight ticking sound, but after driving it and letting it cool and retightening all is well!

P.S.- Anyone, is it even POSSIBLE to blow a copper gasket? :shrug:
 
MJ, after you install the header gaskets, let the car warm up to normal temp. Then during cool down, tight the bolts, work from the inside to the out. Drive for about 200 miles or so and the tighten one more time after reaching normal operating temp. When the car is completely cool, you can then put the retaining clip and C-clips on the Stage 8 bolts. Thats it. :banana: