header leak question

fox-gt

Member
Feb 28, 2004
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17
TN
Two weeks after a full exhaust install and I believe I have a header leak. I have tightened all the bolts, but I hear a ticking sound by the header. After searching here for a while, most of the posts point to a leak. Others have mentioned the plugs, checked them they are fine. I had to take the header off the day after the install to shimmy the motor mount. This will be the third time I have removed this header :(

Two Questions:

Do I have to take it completely off to change the gasket? (It has only been on for about two weeks).

What gasket brand would you recommend? There are many to choose from on summit's website.
 
i had better luck with stock autozone gaskets. I believe i had felpro? gaskets and they leaked on both sides. The ticking drove me crazy. Then a mechanic told me to get stock ones and they were fine:shrug:
 
jerryD said:
also check the ball and socket connection as well. other wise if it is a gasket, i reccomend Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals.

I 2nd the flange. I think I have a little leak there but I can't get it sealed. I thought I seen these gaskets for the ball and socket a long time ago but haven't had any luck finding them since.
 
I find that the best type of header gaskets are the graphite ones. Some don't like them, but I have had the best luck with them. As for the header collector, I use a bead of ultra grey RTV to seal that up as well as all the other exhaust connections on my car. No more exhaust leaks for me.
 
DeadLifter said:
I also put a little bead of RTV around the port holes in the gasket. Check flange. Header could be warped?

Two week old header could be warped, that would stink. It didn't make the noise the 1st week.

When I went to tighten up the header bolts last weekend they were still tight, maybe 1/2 turn to tight them all the way on three of them. The flange was a few full turns loose.

I will check the flange again on saturday. If I have to replace the header gasket, can I just undo all the bolts but the outer bolts, loosen them and replace the gasket or do I need to remove the whole header?

Sorry if I am beating this into the ground, its kind of a bummer. I saved for a long time to get all of this and it has been a nightmare for me. It would not be that bad if this was not my DD or I was more skilled at car repair.
 
I had that same problem!

I bought stage 8 locking bolts from 50resto.com and installed them with some new gaskets and it never happened again...make sure you buy those bolts or it will most probably happen again..good luck!
 
MUSTANGJOE said:
I had that same problem!

I bought stage 8 locking bolts from 50resto.com and installed them with some new gaskets and it never happened again...make sure you buy those bolts or it will most probably happen again..good luck!
Took the words right out of my mouth. Ive struggled with headers on all kinds of cars, locking bolts make all the difference in the world!
 
(If I have to replace the header gasket, can I just undo all the bolts but the outer bolts, loosen them and replace the gasket or do I need to remove the whole header?)

Been awhile but I think I've done it that way. Headers probably aren't warped, but it has happened. Try the RTV around the port holes in the gasket. (Small bead.)
 
Tonys89GT said:
Took the words right out of my mouth. Ive struggled with headers on all kinds of cars, locking bolts make all the difference in the world!


Personally, I think that locking bolts are just a band-aid for a deeper problem. The reason why bolts keep backing out is because the flanges on the headers are not flat and true. Most of the people that have problems with bolts backing out are using MAC headers. I had the same issue as well with my MAC headers and even bought locking bolts. I bought a set of Bassani headers and used standard bolts when I installed them. I heat cycled them once and they haven't leaked a bit since. As long as both the head surface and the headers are square, bolts should never back out.
 
Got the gaskets changed today, the old ones crumbled when we pulled the headers off. The stage 8 bolts were awesome. Both sides were leaking bad. The ticking turned out not to be the exhaust but is something under the valve cover. (probably a rocker)

Thanks everyone for your help.
 
RacEoHolic330 said:
Personally, I think that locking bolts are just a band-aid for a deeper problem. The reason why bolts keep backing out is because the flanges on the headers are not flat and true. Most of the people that have problems with bolts backing out are using MAC headers. I had the same issue as well with my MAC headers and even bought locking bolts. I bought a set of Bassani headers and used standard bolts when I installed them. I heat cycled them once and they haven't leaked a bit since. As long as both the head surface and the headers are square, bolts should never back out.
One of Mac's main selling points is just what you mentioned. Mac don't use a full flange and should have less of the problem you mentioned. It took mine 6 years to start leaking with the paper gaskets and bolts Mac supplied. Due to the crappy HTS coating looking bad now, I am looking for a replacement. I may go with the ceramic coated Mac's.

Dave
 
RacEoHolic330 said:
Personally, I think that locking bolts are just a band-aid for a deeper problem. The reason why bolts keep backing out is because the flanges on the headers are not flat and true. Most of the people that have problems with bolts backing out are using MAC headers. I had the same issue as well with my MAC headers and even bought locking bolts. I bought a set of Bassani headers and used standard bolts when I installed them. I heat cycled them once and they haven't leaked a bit since. As long as both the head surface and the headers are square, bolts should never back out.

I 2nd this, i bought the locking bolts when I did my install but havn't gotten around to installing the locking part of them... not leaking. I used copper mr gaskets though, cost more $ than graphite.