What are a decent set of headers that will fit good on an AOD swap? The current ones I have are really tight to the C4 trans and have been hammered on over the years. I am looking for a long tube type so no shorties. Thanks.
Headers
- Thread starter Z06killinSBF
- Start date
I really like my FPA headders, but be prepared to spend $$$.. They fit perfect w/o a drop bracket for the power steering. Call and I'm sure they can work around an AOD.
Ford Powertrain Applications
Ford Powertrain Applications
you dont have to spend a fortune on your headers.
I use the FlowTech brand and they are just fine.
$120 for black
$250 for ceramic
I had the black ones and the paint burns off after awhile. When i installed aluminum heads a went ahead and bought the ceramic. its been 3 years and still look brand new.
The fitment is good and no problems with AOD trans.
However, if your car is lowered thay may rub a little.
I use the FlowTech brand and they are just fine.
$120 for black
$250 for ceramic
I had the black ones and the paint burns off after awhile. When i installed aluminum heads a went ahead and bought the ceramic. its been 3 years and still look brand new.
The fitment is good and no problems with AOD trans.
However, if your car is lowered thay may rub a little.
Engarom, do you have a sound clip of your car? I was planning on putting in an X-pipe when I do my headers.
I picked up a pair of MAC headers, supposed to fit my PS w/o a drop bracket and not hang low. I haven't installed them yet as my motors not back but when I get it I plan to do a test fit of motor/AOD and headers on my trailer where I can chock the engine up. I hope to have my engine back in a couple of weeks though.
Jon
Jon
Anyone have experience with headers for a 65 coupe, factory 4 speed using the factory z-bar, 302 HO engine with AFR heads and ARP studs, and I am using 1965 motor mounts. I tried a pair of tri-ys but found they were for an automatic only; they interfered with the z-bar on the left, and the right side just wouldn't fit without raising the engine. I also tried a pair of Flowtech long tube headers (the std coating ones) and they would not go on the right side (I didn't try to put on the left due to right not fitting). Looking for recommendations for headers, and info regarding issues with fitting headers. Thanks.
Hooker Competition long tubes clear my mechanical clutch linkage just fine, I have zero issues (well maybe the occasional speed bump).
Thanks Coolblues65. That is one set that I can consider. Do you know anyone who has or is using either Hedman 88308 Elite Hedders thermal coated, or Patriot 8426-1 Tri-y Ceramic coated headers? These are listed on Summitt Racing website as fitting my application.
Tri-Y's are a compromise between manifolds and full-length headers. They actually have more power in the lower rpm ranges than full-length, but lose a bit at top end. You have to ask yourself, how often am I going to need that little extra at top end?
ralph6648
Thanks for your reply. I originally wanted to put the Tri-y's on, but am reluctant to purchase another pair because of the earlier set I bought that didn't fit. Many of the Mustang stores sell the Patriot brand. Ever use these?
Thanks for your reply. I originally wanted to put the Tri-y's on, but am reluctant to purchase another pair because of the earlier set I bought that didn't fit. Many of the Mustang stores sell the Patriot brand. Ever use these?
Patriot is one of the better ones. A little inconsistent, but they usually fit. One thing that helps is if you use a 66 lower clutch rod, and 65 upper rod. Both are adjustable, so it's easy to prevent banging into the pipe.
Patriot Headers
Thanks again for your reply, 2+2GT. I will go with the Patriot Tri-y headers. And, thanks for the tip on the adjusting rods for the z-bar. That was the one problem with the first set I tried. Hopefully, the next set will require a little less adjustment, and the right side will actually fit. Did you have to raise the engine to get the right side to go on? I read one piece of information that advised one could use shims to raise the engine if necessary, instead of going to the 1966 motor mount. Ever hear on doing that, or know of anyone dong that? The shims would go between the engine and the motor mount top surface; that is a solid conection there. Anyway, I appreciate your input.
Thanks again for your reply, 2+2GT. I will go with the Patriot Tri-y headers. And, thanks for the tip on the adjusting rods for the z-bar. That was the one problem with the first set I tried. Hopefully, the next set will require a little less adjustment, and the right side will actually fit. Did you have to raise the engine to get the right side to go on? I read one piece of information that advised one could use shims to raise the engine if necessary, instead of going to the 1966 motor mount. Ever hear on doing that, or know of anyone dong that? The shims would go between the engine and the motor mount top surface; that is a solid conection there. Anyway, I appreciate your input.
I'm big on the engine being level from side to side. Crooked engines make me think something is wrong.
65 and 66 mounts are supposed to be the same height. Unless you have a pair of C6OA Ford mounts, though, you're using aftermarket 2257s, and these things are all over the charts, from "not too bad" to "tear your hair out".
65 and 66 mounts are supposed to be the same height. Unless you have a pair of C6OA Ford mounts, though, you're using aftermarket 2257s, and these things are all over the charts, from "not too bad" to "tear your hair out".
Tri-y headers, 1965 Mustang
I didn't mean to make it sound like my engine was not sitting level, or I intended to raise one side and not the other. What I was referring to was information about raising the engine level 1/4" to enable certain headers to clear, I think it was a JBA shorty header that I was reading about at the time. The mounts I have are 65 mounts. In reading alot of the requirements for after market headers, many of them indicated you must use 1966 motor mounts as it raises the engine about 1/2 inch or so to enable the header to fit or clear what ever it is they come close exiting the engine bay. What I find hard to believe is that many of the headers specifications I have read about are for an automatic car, or recommend the use of 1966 motor mounts when you have a 4-speed. Seems to me that if you raise the engine that would just create some other problem. But, I have not done this before, so I'm not at all sure of what is suppose to be normal problems or what would be abnormal problems. I'm just looking for a clean and easy set of headers to put on my car. Then too, it could be that I need to bump my thinking from the $250 - $400 range to the $500 - $700 range.
I didn't mean to make it sound like my engine was not sitting level, or I intended to raise one side and not the other. What I was referring to was information about raising the engine level 1/4" to enable certain headers to clear, I think it was a JBA shorty header that I was reading about at the time. The mounts I have are 65 mounts. In reading alot of the requirements for after market headers, many of them indicated you must use 1966 motor mounts as it raises the engine about 1/2 inch or so to enable the header to fit or clear what ever it is they come close exiting the engine bay. What I find hard to believe is that many of the headers specifications I have read about are for an automatic car, or recommend the use of 1966 motor mounts when you have a 4-speed. Seems to me that if you raise the engine that would just create some other problem. But, I have not done this before, so I'm not at all sure of what is suppose to be normal problems or what would be abnormal problems. I'm just looking for a clean and easy set of headers to put on my car. Then too, it could be that I need to bump my thinking from the $250 - $400 range to the $500 - $700 range.
Hi All,
I thought I would revive this thread rather than start a new one. I am new here, obviously, and I just started to work on my 1966 Mustang Coupe after a 22 year hiatus. I bought it in 1986 as my first car.
-289 4bbl, AT, duals, Silver Frost, red pony interior,
-I will be putting an Arvinode exhaust on it
My friend just informed me that my new in the box Tri-Y headers from the mid 80's, which were recently put on, are already flaking.
So, I need a recommendation for the ideal ceramic coated Tri-Y header. I have read many forums, and I am still confused:
-JBA, great, but very pricey
-FPA...do not know much about them
-Patriot...quality control issues
-Stan's...$480 + $275 for ceramic coating inside and out
-Hooker, Hedman
Any new input here?
Thanks
I thought I would revive this thread rather than start a new one. I am new here, obviously, and I just started to work on my 1966 Mustang Coupe after a 22 year hiatus. I bought it in 1986 as my first car.
-289 4bbl, AT, duals, Silver Frost, red pony interior,
-I will be putting an Arvinode exhaust on it
My friend just informed me that my new in the box Tri-Y headers from the mid 80's, which were recently put on, are already flaking.
So, I need a recommendation for the ideal ceramic coated Tri-Y header. I have read many forums, and I am still confused:
-JBA, great, but very pricey
-FPA...do not know much about them
-Patriot...quality control issues
-Stan's...$480 + $275 for ceramic coating inside and out
-Hooker, Hedman
Any new input here?
Thanks
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